Chronicle of DaBeeb's - Page 3
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Thread: Chronicle of DaBeeb's

  1. #41

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    About the wings: the transition between the white and purple is a bit rough.
    Normally ways to deal with this:
    - add an intermediary color between (you "ghosting" (misting, whatever) the white in hexwraith could help in this, less of a jump from purple to green than purple to white)
    - dial up the pressure, so that the paint atomizes more
    - add a bit more thinner/flow improver (and less water if you use it) so the paint is thinner but more homogenous, so it forms water-droplets harder
    Forgot, that it works again.

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Zoff View Post
    ... the King of Ruin (had to check out the Creature Caster web store... some seriously good stuff there!)...
    Hey DaBeeb, After further excessive drooling over the Creature Caster website can I just say a big thank you for putting me on to their work...OMG there are some inspirational sculpts there!

    As a self-confessed 'airbrush numpty' I am very impressed with the results you are posting, beautiful colour transitions in a fraction of the time it would take to glaze such a smooth colour transition. It makes me wonder whether perhaps I should replace the pressure gauge on my mini-compressor (darn thing vibrated itself off the table) try to give my Aztec airbrush a good clean (Aztec use 'sealed' nozzle units, which may have been a poor novice choice in hindsight) and have another try to master it.

    Really enjoying seeing your progress, and looking forward to further installments!

  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Zoff View Post
    ... try to give my Aztec airbrush a good clean ...
    always a good idea.
    Forgot, that it works again.

  4. #44

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    Thank you, both!
    Doc- happy to help. I know I've been really excited to get my hands on a few of their models. I will say that coming from GW models, I expected the premium priced models to fit the same, if not better. I found that the difference in material/manufacturing allows for variation in the fit of the parts. The assumption I made, due to my own ignorance, has provided another opportunity to learn a skill re: how to fill gaps. Based on what I've seen with your conversion, I'm sure its a non-issue. I'm still happy with the models I've got going; I just hadn't anticipated the extra work to make it look right. While we are talking about model casters, I just got some items from raging heroes today...they are awesome sculpts, I just wish they were bigger. Again, due to my own ignorance, I didn't mentally scale model size for things that sit on 25mm bases, and will probably find myself buying sub-0 sized brushes soon. LOL

    MaXX- Thanks for the tips. Coming from automotive 2 stage paints, I've had to adjust how I approach the airbrush. Thinning is less intuitive for me with the acrylics (I've been using liquitex airbrush medium, and liquitex flo-aide (diluted per direction); thinning to a consistency that just barely coats the side of a mixing cup when splashed up the side. I'm pretty sure the orange peel on the Typhus was due to the grain of pigment from the Ceramite White I used (not a favorite color, so I was OK with blowing it down as a base coat). I've since used the VA Dead White, Citadel Naggaroth Night, and Citadel Abbadon Black; with no issue. The splotchy blend you mention, I believe, is the spatter from the rattle can primers showing through the paint layer (I've been using Krylon Fusion Black, misted with Army Painter White), but anticipate that a purchase of some airbrush primers is on the horizon. I initially intended to try and sponge a texture (or use cheesecloth and some really thinned paint through the airbrush) on the webbing of the wings, and then glaze it deeper in the visible layers, but after I got to where I'm at, I'm hesitant of messing up what I've got started. Next go round with the airbrush, I'll certainly try your suggestions and see if I can't better the use of this awesome tool. I'm also thinking that I should up the needle size, as the factory Grex comes with a 2.0 needle, and I keep feeling like it's not big enough for the task at hand (that's what she said *ha, ha, ha*). I agree that the application of the green, followed with a dry brush and/or airbrushing of white should help the transition from the purple to white.

  5. #45

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    After I wasn't quite happy with the OSL, I did some studying...re-did the green glow tonight. Also, I wanted to try my luck at 2 brush blending, so I re-did the brown fabric.

    On a side note...whomever signed off on this guy only having 1, teeny, tiny, attachment point to the rest of the model needs to be kicked hard; I broke his arm tonight while I was trying to maneuver my brushes to blend. Attempting to glue it. If it doesn't hold, I may be attempting to pin it (with what, I'm not really sure I have anything small, yet sturdy enough).

  6. #46

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    Nice early effort with the airbrush. I like the colors you are going for on this.

    btw...the nurgle m8nis turned out great, espescially that final wash application.

  7. #47

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    Well, finished the Grimhailer tonight. Learned soooo much on this one.
    Biggest lessons were:
    #1 Glazing is where it's at (I just hope I become more proficient at it),
    #2 Matt Medium is your friend,
    #3 When attempting two brush blending, watch out for the thin arm that is the only link between your character and his mount.
    Joking aside, this was really fun, and I learned a lot trying to emulate the techniques and lessons presented by the Masters of the CMoN.
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    Yes, the wing tips are different (either the white undercoat wasn't the same, or the oil wash got away from me(and wouldn't scrub off with thinner)).

    Thoughts/Comments/Critique?

    edit:after reviewing previous photos, it looks like the white on the wing tips of the right wing didn't saturate as far into the wing as the left side...I may be able to fix after the oil wash dries
    Last edited by DaBeebs; 02-25-2019 at 04:08 AM.

  8. #48

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    This is right on point!!! You must have a wonderful army on the table buddy.
    BaM

  9. #49

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    Thanks, BaM. Actually, this piece was just for the fun of it!

    Next up, is the Lord of Virulence (proxy for my Daemon Prince of Nurgle) to complete my 1000 pt Death Guard Army. I've got him sub assembled, with a joint or two to fill, but struggling to think of a color palette for the guy. Any suggestions?

  10. #50

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    I can't even finish a kill team, so I'm amazed at your productivity! Looking great (and chaotic)! Kudos!

  11. #51

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    Awesome work man, that ghostly green looks fantastic

  12. #52

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    Thanks for the comments, everyone! The support is greatly appreciated. I'm still going to go back and fix the wing tips in a few days (the more I look at it, the more the difference in hue between the mane/tail, right wing, and left wing irritates me.)

    Doc, One of the things that I kept reading/hearing while learning about developing skill as a mini painter, was to set aside a chunk of time, everyday, to work a little bit. My wife takes the night shifts at the hospital, so after the kids go to bed, it affords me some quiet time to unwind from the day, and lose myself in some paint. Sometimes the clock runs a little fast, and I lose track of what time it is, but I'm enjoying the journey, and the quiet distraction from family/work/mundane life until the sun comes back to the Northern Hemisphere.

    I saw this guy at a gaming store a couple of weeks ago. At $4, I figured I would take a crack at trying something different. Got into a building mood, and I'm waiting for the glue/putty to cure on my next game piece, anyway. I'm doing some more research on how to attach the hangman's noose, but have the greater part of the gallows mocked up.

    Now I need some pointers... I want the piece to look like it's just a section of a larger platform; what edge treatment should I do to convey that to the character's right side?
    How do I create scale grain in the balsa wood, short of taking a ball point pen and drawing it in with pressure?
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    Any other tips that anyone is willing to send my way?

  13. #53

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    For wood grain effect I use a pointed blade, dragging either the side or the back of the point along the balsa grain to press in rather than cut (essentially just a refinement of the ballpoint pen method). If you have a micro saw you can drag the teeth along the grain, varying the angle of the blade will vary the width of the grooves (perpendicular gives widest grooves, angled gives narrower) to give more of a natural grain effect. Dragging the saw blade will probably make the balsa grain more ragged which can also add variety to the planks. You can also experiment with cutting small scollops from the edges of the planks (or especially the support beams) to give a more axe-hewn look and suggest wear and age.
    GW washes (Seraphim Sepia, Agrax Earthshade and of course Corroburg Crimson for bloodstains) are great for increasing the wood grain contrast and will gather in any grooves or wear added using the above methods. Dry brushing will further emphasise the grain effects andadd to the weathered aged effect (greys can make sawn timber look really old).

    For suggesting a section of a larger platform one method is to cut a straight edge and paint the exposed edges black (or similar flat colour). If the imaginary cut line matches the edge of the base, and you have a fw other scenic 'bits' that are also cut along the same plane that will increase the sectional look. I'd recommend having the gallows at an angle to the base and hence to the sectional cut line as this will further avoid visual confusion between actual edges of features and the sectional cut line. This does make it a bit harder to line up the cut, so probably best to glue the gallows firmly together ande then take a single cut through the whole lot with a micro saw (or mini hacksaw if the micro-saw blade is too small. I'd give the cut side a good sanding to get a smooth finish, once again this will give more textural contrast with the rougher wood surfaces and avoid visual confusion.

    If you have a look at my nurgle figure base on page two of my WIP you'll see the result of most of these methods, ironically I'd already installed the small jetty before I thought of suggesting it was a section of a longer structure, if I did it again I would've used the straight cut in line with the edge of the base technique (did cut the very back corner so you sort of get the idea). Ignore the weathering effects on the redder wood at the very bottom, I achieved that by balancing the base on my garden fence to take a natural light photo (it's a nice effect but not overly portable or practical for gaming ).

    One other thought, You could add some joinery detail to the scaffold frame joints on the diagonal beams by drilling holes and pushing in cut lengths of cocktail sticks to look like pinned joints (or rusted bolt heads, round pins heads etc).

    Looks lke a really cool subject, be really cool if you could find or modify a kneeling figure (head on block or aready in basket... deliciously gruesome!)
    Last edited by Doc Zoff; 02-27-2019 at 04:08 AM.

  14. #54

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    I really like the "glowing in the dark" effect on Lord Reikenor.
    To my mind the remaining part of the mini seems a bit too dark (but this could be related to the light around, once the picture was taken).

  15. #55

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    Different lighting (although pretty hard light due to early evening sun).

  16. #56

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    More work on the gallows tonight. Taking DocZ's suggestion, I rotated the platform. The beams and planks of the structure are roughed up, and I will add in some distressed features tomorrow, along with roughing up the decking. The cut lines are left intentionally long, intending to be trued up with the plinth when I move to further smoothing out the plinth sides (I figure that high build primer will fill the remaining wood grain, and then progressive grit sanding will create a "baby's butt smooth" surface on the plinth and the cut edges. The beam seems out of proportion, however, I gauged the height based on the height of the executioner (it may be that the size of the beam material is too large)?

    There is a head in the basket, and I envision an awful lot of blood and material dripping off the platform, in the mud, and (for visual interest) a little running down the front of the plinth.

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    Thoughts/Suggestions/Critique?
    Last edited by DaBeebs; 02-28-2019 at 01:44 AM.

  17. #57

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    Love it! The rotation was an excellente idea, the composition is more intersting what way.

  18. #58

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    I agree the rotation greatly increased the visual interest.

    Now my dumb question....would there really be a hangman’s post on the same platform as an axeman executioner? That may be historically accurate, but I would think it would be one or the other.

  19. #59

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    KBear, TBH, I never really thought about the historical accuracy of having a "chopping" block and the hangman's post...I just figured that the post would frame in the character.

    Upon some research, it seems that in English Tradition, be-headings were typically reserved for those of nobility. Axemen doubled as hangmen for the majority of their work. In one reference of history, Henry VIII hired a skilled swordsman to execute Anne Boleyn, as he was concerned with the high probability of a botched axe throw (implying that a "skilled" axeman was not typical). Because the "skill" wasn't widely available, someone devised a more predictable machine; enter the guillotine. Someone with more knowledge on the matter, is welcome to jump in.

    Dex and KBear, thanks for taking the time to look at my post.

  20. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaBeebs View Post
    KBear, TBH, I never really thought about the historical accuracy of having a "chopping" block and the hangman's post...I just figured that the post would frame in the character.

    Upon some research, it seems that in English Tradition, be-headings were typically reserved for those of nobility. Axemen doubled as hangmen for the majority of their work. In one reference of history, Henry VIII hired a skilled swordsman to execute Anne Boleyn, as he was concerned with the high probability of a botched axe throw (implying that a "skilled" axeman was not typical). Because the "skill" wasn't widely available, someone devised a more predictable machine; enter the guillotine. Someone with more knowledge on the matter, is welcome to jump in.

    Dex and KBear, thanks for taking the time to look at my post.
    Cool, but morbid! Lol. That does make sense. I also agree that it frames the scene well.

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