Chronicle of DaBeeb's - Page 8
Page 8 of 8 FirstFirst ... 678
Results 141 to 147 of 147

Thread: Chronicle of DaBeeb's

  1. #141

    Default

    Name:  Raw Photo.jpg
Views: 38
Size:  199.8 KBName:  Raw Photo (1).jpg
Views: 39
Size:  223.4 KB
    Fourth and final attempt, as I don't think the resin would like another soak in paint removing chemical (the resin seems to be breaking down, as evident on the tail of the robe). This came out decent, as I stopped fiddling with the skin tone when I got it close to what I had before, instead of continuing to try and increase contrast AND pull off the effect. The black to red came out smoother on this round. And given the practice I've had, I was able to finish this one up in an evening. Now, on to the base. I bought some really small round polystyrene at the hobby store on Saturday, and will attempt to make passable casings for her super small sidearms. If that doesn't work out, I also ordered the bullet casing rubber mold from GreenStuffWorld, along with some other goodies like SpiderSerum and cleaner. Took better pictures, in hopes that the finer details of the sheer would show up (iphone photos just are the best for minis, I'm learning).

    Y'all have a great week!

    Comments/Suggestions/Critique?

  2. #142

    Default

    Hi DaBeebs,
    I'm with Kuribo in wondering whether the rough resin finish may be frustrating your efforts. Painting on a well detailed smooth surfaced mini can just feel 'right' in a way that painting onto rough and/or poorly defined detail doesn't. The approach I've fallen into is to smooth rough resin (or plastic) finishes by scraping with a knife blade. With the blade held around 90% to the surface you can rub the balde over the surface, which should smooth off any bumps and roughness without hacking into the detail. It should be a fairly gentle stroking action rather than cutting or hacking, better to take many light passes than try to remove with one brute force attack. (takes some practice so try on a test piece first). This is fine on a relatively flat undetailed surface, which of course is exactly the type of surface that you don't find on miniature figures (darn-it!).

    So the next challenge is how can you scrape smooth a surface on the complicated shapes and details that you do find on miniature figures? Jumping in with a chunky Stanley knife blade is doomed to failure, and there's often not much more hope with the average craft blade. If the blade won't fit the detail, the only choice you have is to change the blade...
    Name:  shaped_blades.jpg
Views: 34
Size:  402.1 KB
    This picture shows original (relatively flat) blades, with reground rounded blades next to them. The large flat chisel blade has been ground to a wide diameter round, the angled blade to a smaller diameter (even the original blade has a rounded tip), the narrow chisel provides an even smaller diameter, plus I ground an angled blade to have a 45% tip which is great for sharpening up 'stepped' detail. The three rounded blade profiles cover pretty much any sin, clothing contour and allow me to pretty much scrape the entire surface of rough castings (Citadel 'finecast' being a case in point, it never quite live up to the name!). Though I started using blades just to smooth rough texture, there's no real dividing line between cleaning and resculpting. While cleaning the rough texture from a fold of cloth the fold can also be deepened and accentuated, if removing rough texture from the edge of a cloak the edge can be scraped thinner to give a far more realistic look. I think this starts to enable introducing the level of detailing that the original figure sculptors would work to if they were not contrained by the subsequent molding/casting process.

    To regrind blades I use a diamond chisel block (initially expensive but lasts forever, a cheaper whetstone would also work) hold the edge of the blade against the stone at around the original blade angle, and then sharpen with a rocking motion. The rocking causes more metal to be removed from the points, which after a while results in a curved edge.

    This may be a complete off-subject waffle, but like I say, maybe it's the limitations of the original figure that is unsettling your painting mojo. Your previous Viking figure is beautifully and superbly painted so there's no question re your painting ability, which makes me suspect that something else is putting you off your game, and the original figure is both rough finished and lacking finer detail. So maybe give it a try on the next one ( no point destroying your work to date, plus if the resin is starting to breakdown after multiple paint strippings it's probably too fragile for testing this technique on) and if it works... well then you can curse me for how much longer your mini's will take to finish from now on! (I know!!).

    Hope this helps!

  3. #143

    Default

    Thanks for sharing your smoothing tools Doc Zoff.

    DaBeebs, I agree with the herd. I don’t thing the sheer effect looks that bad, but the rough surface makes it harder on you. Don’t give up.

  4. #144

    Default

    Concerning the problem of the rough plastic or rough primer...I just remembered an old trick I used as a kid on car models. Has anyone ever tried massaging the primer with toothpaste? Toothpaste is a super mild abrasive, and when used on rattle can primers as a wet sanding, creates a very smooth finish, much like wet sanding automotive primer with 1500/2000 grit sand paper. Will the acrylic primer react similarly? Guess I'll have to try this down the road.

    Thanks, Doc, for the suggestions. I've gone at mold lines with the back side of a Xacto from about the 2nd miniature I painted; never thought to attack the rest of the model with shaped blades.

    To KB and Eki, thanks for the encouragement and the suggestion that it may not be something I'm doing wrong, just something I could be doing better (ie. thinner primer coats). I really have come to appreciate the helpful community here (the wife gets tired of me talking about my little "guys", and she's not much help beyond telling me, "that looks good," or, "that doesn't look right.") LOL

  5. #145

    Default

    Name:  nun.jpg
Views: 9
Size:  179.0 KBName:  nun2.jpg
Views: 8
Size:  299.0 KBName:  nun3.jpg
Views: 8
Size:  206.0 KB
    Got this one to a place I'm ok with. Had fun painting the plastic sheet to look like granite. The bullet casings are polystyrene rod that I simply cut, glued, painted, and then washed. Not really satisfied with the overall results of this project, but learned a bit more about what I can and can't do at this stage and scale.

    Next up...the same harpy that Sigmar3 just finished. I'm struggling to figure out a unique color palette for her, as I seem to be gravitating to the stereotypical evil queen colors of purple, black, grey, and red. I want to do something more interesting than Maleficient, lol, just can't picture it in my head. Maybe something based around emerald green and black? Suggestions are welcome.

    After that, I've got one last RagingHeroes model that I'm really excited to work on. The model itself isn't really anything special, but the presentation I've been brewing and 3d printing components for, should prove very interesting. Stay tuned!

    Comments/Suggestions/Critique?

  6. #146

    Default

    I looove the reds. Sooo smoothe- and crunchy delicious!!!

  7. #147

    Default

    Terrific basing!! Now I need to search for my Bullet for my Valentine CD ;-)
    Fantastic idea with all those bullets at the ground!!!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0SrxSMHDmE

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Privacy Policy  |   Terms and Conditions  |   Contact Us  |   The Legion


Copyright © 2001-2018 CMON Inc.

-->