First conversion
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  1. #1

    Default StephanW0lf WIP

    New to the hobby and just had my first try with a conversion. I used green stuff and loved it. Still can’t figure out how to keep my tools wet, but it was enjoyable nonetheless. Any tips or recommendations are appreciated. I started with a half painted crypt ghoul with the intent of making it look like it was spawning from a fleshy mass and growing bone protrusions. I’m not sure which route to go with on finishing up the colors. I can’t seem to get wnough color to take on the base without it chalking up like crazy. Photos will likely suck, no clue what i’m doing in that department.
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    Last edited by StephanW0lf; 02-10-2019 at 05:21 AM. Reason: Title change

  2. #2


    The thing attached to it’s arm is supposed to be a bulbous plantlike think attached like an umbilical cord with a mind of its own. Really not sure if my intent is conveyed through the model at all though.

  3. #3


    That thing is the stuff of nightmares. What a twisted sickly disturbing midelgranting visual mayhem on all who look!!!! Really successful idea conveyed!!!

  4. #4


    I really wasn’t sure if it was me or the drugs, but really glad the “look” wasn’t missed. I could not find a magic angle for the camera to hit it well. I posed it’s left arm too high and close to the face and i think it impeded the overall look quite a bit. I’m red/green colorblind and screwed myself hard with painting the base and can’t visually separate the well without extreme scrutiny. It kinda turned to a brownish mess to my eyes and i couldn’t pick out the paint i was putting on. It was a really refreshing learning curve and i have improved a lot over the course of the model. It’s been a really fun pain in the ass though

  5. #5


    Great work with the green stuff, your conversion turned out great, and the concept you had really shows... I like it

  6. #6


    Dig it! Really cool work with the green stuff! Keep it going!

  7. #7


    Thanks a ton for the support guys. Any suggestions on how i could get some more color depth and separation into the base? My painting has improved a lot since i last worked on him but color picking is still a hurdle for me.

  8. #8


    My current undertaking is 35 of these brutes. Found them basecoated and assembled for a steal. Only real headway i’ve made has been on the face. Looking for any tips on how to get a brighter and more vivid green. I’ve always wanted some vibrant green orcs, but am having trouble getting it light enough without coming out too white.
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  9. #9


    Glaze it back a little with a bright green if you feel it’s going to whiteish

  10. #10


    You the man! Thanks, i’ll give er a go when i get home from work. Just started working with glazes recently and it’s helped tremendously. I didn’t realize that I just wasn’t diluting enough. Makes things look way better and less chunky.

  11. #11


    That little base with the iron filings is brilliant, what an awesome little concept. Could be used for some really dynamic bases. I really like it!!!

  12. #12


    Thanks Cc! As a disclaimer I should probably mention that the chemical reaction gets it pretty hot since it takes a ton of glue. Furthermore, I tries super glue with sea sponge and it actually heated up and started smoking pretty good. Wouldn’t have been that bad but it was stuck to my finger at the time haha.

  13. #13


    Great board. Wouldn't add too much as it might become overwhelming. If it's for playing think also that the more you add, the more tat can come off. Great piece of terrain!



  14. #14


    Looks great! I have to agree, add some minis and take another pic that might be all you are really missing. If you want to go crazy, add a steam or small lake.

  15. #15


    Yeah keep your glazes super dilute, better to do a couple of passes than slap it on too thick... after a bit of practice you will just know how to dilute it for what your trying to do

  16. #16


    As to sculpting, keep a jar of olive oil handy and dip your sculpting tool in it periodically. Just make sure you don't get too much on it and leave a residue on the model. It would need to be washed before priming.

    One way to make a color seem brighter is to start darker with the shadows. More contrast will make it brighter. The Orcs face looks pretty nice now though!

  17. #17


    Thanks a ton guys. Glazing is going much better now. I am now horribly aware of how much of an impatient bastard i am. I went back and tried to blend a bit more and darken the recesses like you suggested. It’s starting to smooth out a bit more. Haven’t sculpted in a bit, but i’m going to attempt a hydra spell next. Similar to the spell from Diablo II. I’m eager to give the olive oil a shot. I thought about trying it originally, but wasn’t sure how the oil would affect the putty. I wasn’t sure if it would end up with voids that i couldn’t mix.

  18. #18


    I agree with CC and creepy basement -all good tips. I really do concur along with them on the face as well. It’s pretty vibrant. Sometimes what we do asartists therereally Dino set waybut what we do is let’s say inthe future you want a really vibrant green ork-you could 1 undercoat with white. 2) start with the most vibrant green you can find in your paint collection add light grey to it this will keep the vibrancy of the hue without turning it chalky and pale . Then just work in reverse-light shades, then mid shades , then deep shades. Viola!!!

  19. #19


    Awesome, can’t wait to give that a shot. It’s just always seemed like i’m missing something basic and i’m not sure what exactly it is. I think this guy may have been basecoated black before being covered by yellow and that may be some of the issue. Really like the thought of light grey vs white. I have not been able to figure out the right times and ways to use white. I always started trying to transition from dark to light first too and it sounds like the opposite works better?

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