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  • Basic Guide with GW plastic Elf

    Starting Out
    Welcome. Let's begin with a completely unpainted figure.
    Most figures are made of pewter or lead and come in a plastic blister pack.
    Some are sets (like the Warhammer army sets) and made of plastic for building
    vast armies. The figure I am going to use is a plastic High Elf Archer from
    Warhammer. As you can see, they come plain (except for the slight redness
    around the face due to too much time outside and not enough painting) and
    will probably need some trimming, sanding, filling and other manipulation
    before starting. There is nothing worse than just about finishing a mini and
    noticing the flash that you thought was part of the belt. Shading will reveal
    a multitude of manufacturing sins.
    Anyways, we start but carefully removing excess flash
    (where the mold halves join and the modelling material has seaped slightly)
    and sanding down any seam lines that are left.
    Next we will attach a stout piece of cardboard to the
    base with some glue so that you can have a good grip on the figure without
    rubbing paint off by constantly handling it during the painting process. This
    will take a small amount of time to dry so you can decide what sort of base
    coat you would like to use.

    Base Coating and Color Scheming
    Base coating is important for several reasons. First, a good base will allow
    further layers of paint to stay put on the miniature. Secondly, the overall
    brightness of the figure can be altered depending on the base coat you use.
    For a darker, villainous character, I will usually use black for the base.
    This means that all of my shading will be done to lighten and enhance areas
    of the mini. This is good for a really sharp contrast or just a plain dark
    color. Otherwise (and like this demonstration), I will use white or light
    grey (US light Ghost Grey for the military enthusiasts works well). This will
    mean that generally, the character will be brighter and more "heroic"
    looking. Since this is a dandelion-eating fancy-pants high Elf archer, I use
    the white. Naturally, you will want to get a good even coat so that some areas
    are not brighter than others. You may also decide to leave the armor and blade
    bits out and paint them silver as a base (if you are actually going to have
    silver armor) though I tend to base the entire mini.
    Next, one must decide on the coloring. Keep in mind that contrasting colors
    such as red and green, blue and orange etc. will work really well together
    as they bring each other out nicely. Painting a miniature all red for instance
    (because he is Rakhir the Red Archer) is cool, but you may have to have different
    shades of red and definately contrasting things such as gems, broaches and
    equipment to keep the interest of a viewer.
    Remember to take careful thought at this point because changing your mind
    later could have disastrous results!!!

    Base Colors
    I have decided to paint my archer red with green equipment
    (as a color contrast). He will have normal metal armor and some blue gems
    to draw the eye. At this point, I will paint the entire mini with the base
    colors I want. I use an assortment of paints, mainly Polly Scale Fantasy and
    military colors, some Citadel paints, some assorted inks, Humbrol acrylics
    and Humbrol Aluminum metal cote (the only oil based paint I use).
    I begin by painting the deepest areas of the figure
    first. I paint the flesh with a nice light flesh color, the armor silver,
    the robes red, the gauntlets dark green, the gems blue, the gem mountings
    and other jewels gold and belts, boots and various other things different
    browns.I will outline some things with white (like the armor trim).
    Next is a relatively easy way to apply some instant
    shading, though your first impulse will be to groan in horror!!!

    Shadows, Mid-Tones and Drybrushing
    At this point, I will wash almost the entire figure with various inks. The
    ink is thin and will run into all of the recesses and chinks and will produce
    a nice blending medium for the brighter clothing later. For all of the silver
    metal and green stuff, I wash with black ink. Carefully apply the ink as it
    will stain the color if you put it in the wrong place. I use a dark brown
    ink for all of the red,flesh, brown and gold. The white can be lined or washed
    with almost anything, depending on what sort of white you want. I like mainly
    greys though I've started using blue. Now your miniature will be very dark.
    This is great though as all you can do is go brighter now. Notice how I left
    out the extreme tips of the red and green things since they will be much brighter
    by the end.
    Now that the "shadows" are all in place and the recesses nicely
    darkened, we can start "dry-brushing" the same base colors back
    where you originally had them.

    Drybrushing is a technique where you get a small amount of paint on the brush,
    carefully brush it back and forth on your workboard or a napkin until almost
    no paint visibly comes off and then you lightly brush it across the raised
    surfaces of the area to be colored. Be patient as only experience will let
    you get the right amount. It may take many passes to bring the color out but
    the key is to not blotch too much on.
    At this point, I also re-paint the gem mountings and other gold things, carefully
    avoiding filling in the recesses. This saves time later when doing little
    details and lining.
    Notice how the original colors come back as you apply more and more "dustings"
    and yet the recesses remain shaded. This can produce really nice looking miniatures,
    and even hiliting can be drybrushed. However, drybrushing can leave a "flaky"
    appearance to your miniature (since the brush is all but dry) so to get really
    nice results, you should attempt to use a technique known as blending for
    doing all of the shading.

    Blending, Hilighting and Detailing
    Blending is a technique that I am just becoming familiar
    with and through practice, I hope to master. As opposed to drybrushing, where
    the brush is almost dry and you are applying "flakes" of paint to
    the raised areas, blending involves applying watered-down shades to the raised
    areas while the paint on the brush is wet. Mixing paint can be a messy hassle
    but can produce nice results when done right. For example, the red robe used
    a mix of about 1/3 red, 1/3 white and 1/3 water. This produces a watery pink
    (though it is really the same red, just lightened). Do not get too much of
    this on the brush (it will suck it up) as it will run into the recesses. Now
    paint along the raised areas to be shaded instead of across them. Since the
    paint is thinned down, it will be barely visible. This is good as you can
    start with wider areas and slowly apply smaller amounts as the surface raises.
    Further lightening by adding more white will eventually complete the highlited
    area. Sometimes, an orange or yellow could be used with red to blend though
    using the same base color makes the blending easier.
    Some really sharp contrasts can be achieved this way,
    like on the bow, where I went from the near black brown inking to the light
    brown shading. I used a different shade of green for the equipment and yellow
    can work nice for that too.
    The face is blended with the light flesh color and
    raised areas are lightened. Eyes are tricky, especially on poorly molded minis
    but generally, paint the eye white, line the lids with ink or brown and carefully
    put small black dots for the pupils. If you are feeling really comfortable,
    a tiny glint spot can be added.
    I have a special way of doing the metal and armor that involves using th
    Humbrol Aluminum cote. Remember that this sort of paint is oil based so proper
    cleaning measures should be taken. It will also generally take more time to
    dry. I now go along the edges of the metal plates with the aluminum, and put
    some in the center of metal areas. It can then be carefully spread towards
    the darkened edges to give a real nice shine and contrast.
    I get a little lazy with the gems, but I start with a mid tone (blue in the
    example) for the entire gem. Next I will wash some dark around the bottom
    edge and about the top 1/3 of the gem. Some blending is done to get hilites
    on the lower half and around the top edge and finally a tiny white spot fot
    reflection is applied in the darkest area.
    Now the final details and touch-ups have to be made. Any mountings may need
    to be touched up after doing the gems and some areas may have to be seperated
    with thin lines of black (or another dark color) to make them stand out more.
    The base can be adorned many ways. It can be painted, (say black), covered
    with a substance (such as sand, tiny gravel, pepper, or that green sponge-like
    stuff (crushed up of course) that you put fake flowers in or dry-brushed if
    it is textured. The options are almost limitless.
    Once this is done, you want to protect your miniature from handling, dust
    and other accidents. This is achieved by sealing the painted figure with some
    sort of varnish or laquer. This can be applied with a brush or sprayed on
    with various brands of clear-cote. I generally use Testors gloss-cote spray
    and sometimes dull-cote if the figure appears to shiny. Please note that if
    you have flocked your base with material, be sure to get all of the loose
    bits off before you spray your mini!
    Now you have a sharp looking archer to put in you display!!!!

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