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  • Recipe for Cream-Filled Cyclops

    Recipe for Cream-Filled Cyclops

    Okay, so I SHOULD be working on my really important articles, but I
    found that working on each little by little doesn’t get much done. SO
    I’ve decided to make this little article on my own site just to give
    some people new to the mini field info on miniature preparation and how
    important it is, especially with the Mid Nor Cyclops.. Well, without
    further ado, lets get to work!

    First, I got the stuff out of the kit, cut everything off the sprues
    and went over all the mold lines with a new, sharp hobby knife and some
    400 grit Sand Paper. The sandpaper’s finish should say “Mirror Finish”
    on it.. this is the stuff you want to use because it’ll give a nice
    finish without any scarring AND you can use it to polish pewter for
    realistic metal! Well, One of the Major things to do while sanding down
    mold lines is to sand down the sword hand so the blade is sharp,
    otherwise you’ll have to paint that edge and the blade will look
    blocky, and not sharp and menacing. And up and down motion along the
    edge on both sides as if you were sharpening a real blade does a great

    After sanding everything down, go ahead and dry fit everything (that
    is, fit the pieces together without any glue for you REALLY new
    people). I noticed the two torso halves wouldn’t go together without a
    piece of flash, so I cut it and it fit snugly, everything went together
    without a hitch.... Except things wouldn’t glue like that.. For one,
    the legs and torso pieces are hollow, and secondly, they rely on each
    other to stay together.. I envisioned one swipe from my cat on to the
    floor and this would be in pieces again. So, I took some Milliput and
    filled them in after I had scored them (you can see on the inside of
    the torso where I did this) to help the putty adhere. I tried to make
    sure I had just enough to fill, then mashed the pieces together. You
    can see that some excess milliput leaked out from the legs, but they
    stayed in place and that was their glue.. I also cut off the pipe
    running to the back, because I hated painted ribbed pipes and only the
    very end supported anything. The torso was not so easy. I first pieced
    it together and come morning when it had dried, I found the pieces were
    not together, and that I needed to cut some Milliput off to make them
    fit. Then I used some Super Glue Gel and the main pieces were together

    Since the other piece fit so well, you should just glue them, right?
    Well, I still like insurance my Cyclops will not break on impact, so I
    would pin all 7 areas that needed it. Pinning with me is very easy.
    First, you make an indentation with your knife where you want to drill,
    like so:

    Then you get out your trusty 8,000-18,000 RPM hand tool, I use this low
    setting because anything more and you’ll chomp through the whole thing
    in a second. I have a more powerful one with three different settings,
    but that one is bigger and I only use it for cutting. I use a #68 Size
    drill bit (that’s 0.0310 of an inch for you technical people), which is
    small enough for hands and feet on 28 MM figures (well, not Rackham
    hands and feet) and big enough to drill a sizable hole for strength.

    Now, for a pin I use some so technical, so rare it is only known to a
    very few elite miniature converters, who must swear and oath to....

    Okay, it’s a small paperclip. :P These things are just smaller than the
    0.0310 hole, so the gel glue will fit with them in it. I also use these
    for putting them in:

    A trusty pair of pliers! You can use needle nose, but I like the
    stability of these regular ones. I do this so: 1) I don’t skewer my
    fingers pushing the sharp ends in, 2) hammering the pin will just bend
    it and C) they can rip the pin out if it’s not set right. Now, Rackham
    decided to put their own “Pins” on the mini for support, but it
    basically comes up to a ball and socket joints.. Y’know, the kind
    that’s in your shoulder.. the kind made for WIGGLING STUFF AROUND! If
    you just glue them, you’ll first have to stand totally still because it
    can rotate around, despite not being in the right place. So, my
    solution was this; first, you can drill into the hole part (like on the
    top on of the head).

    Then you can cut off the round end on the opposite end and drill into
    the middle of it. This’ll give you a nice support like below:

    Thought it was all together? Think again!

    This is how I envision pinning with parts. I’m not a fan of the method
    of putting paint down on one part and squishing it into another to get
    where the pin will go, I use my imagination to see where it will go. I
    did this on the arms, but on the head and hands, I had the ball sockets
    to tell me where it should go. And on the head what I did was to work
    from the bottom up. I did the above where I drilled the hole, cut the
    rounded end, and then I drilled through the lower mouth piece

    I then pieced the lower mouth to the upper head and put the drill
    through the hole in the lower mouth. That gave me the exact hole in all
    three pieces in the same place, making for a smooth transition.

    You could go ahead and pin everything and use Super Glue Gel to glue it
    all up. If you do that, put smaller pieces to bigger ones, since the
    torso is done if you glue the hands to the arms and then to the body
    you will not have to worry about snapping the arms off of the body
    while placing the hands. BUT, I was not done yet, because though the
    kit from the factory was amazing, I wanted some more character to him.
    So, I got the weapon from Wolfen Zombie 2 an thought how cool it would
    be if he had a scythe..

    I sanded and sharpened the scythe blade just like the sword. I wondered
    if I had enough room, but when I saw the hand position, I had more than
    enough. I started but sawing off the head of the club, trying to keep
    the wood and bindings texture (which will soon become a great boon) and
    cut the scythe blade from the haft. Notice how well the blade and wood
    from the hand fit together.

    I pinned the blade to the hand and I noticed though the club looked
    like wood, it did not give the effect of a broken scythe I wanted
    because it was too small, so I hacked that off as well.

    The scythe haft was next to face my jeweler’s saw’s fury, as I went and
    cut off a section from the middle. My original plan was to just sculpt
    on an end, but then I saw that the part from the middle’s end matched
    the width of the end piece of the scythe! I cut that off too and pinned
    the whole thing, coming up with this weapon:

    I intentionally left a little space between the end and the middle so I
    could put some putty and make sure it looked good, and didn’t have any
    abrupt cuts showing.

    My Cyclops was still baseless, so I got some Cork and ripped off a big
    piece and a slightly smaller piece to be the rock he was standing on. I
    cut out the middle of the smaller piece because I would sculpt
    something in there later, which would give weight and support to the
    heavy Cyclops (heavy with Milliput filling! Yum!). The smaller piece
    was fitted on top of the small piece, then I used some watered down
    wood glue to harden the cork, although it looks too runny and will
    slide around, just brush it on and walk away. Wood glue straight is too
    thick, and you’ll get rounded edges where it ran, you could use super
    glue, but expense, fumes, and common sense stop me from doing it that

    At this time, you’ll think I neglected the little Cyclops Puppet. Not
    so, I made a special base for him, I used only a little bit of cork
    which did not cover the entire base. I also tried to make a wedge shape
    by putting a smaller piece on top. Same thing, use a little watery glue
    and walk away for a while. Then, I took a Griffon shield and figured
    out the slant of the cork and cut it so it looked like it was embedded
    in the ground.

    On the back, I also used a Griffon Templar helmet so the shield had
    something to “rest” on. Sure, you can stick a shield in the ground, but
    if it’s leaning like that, it’ll need support. Taking extra steps for
    realism is what good basing is all about!

    After I let everything dry, I went back and messed up the shield with a
    knife, hand tool, files, etc, for battle damage. Then I used SnowTex
    (the stuff you find at craft stores for snow texture.. never works for
    snow on minis, but it’s good for basing), and some Renaissance Inks
    Coarse flocking gel for basing, also making it look like the shield was
    buried even more. I also used a file on the two upper tips of the
    shield to make them level (somewhat), and glued the puppet on. Now he
    has his own base and it’s just as good as the big guy’s!!

    Speaking of which, by now the big pieces should be done drying. Now,
    the reason I wanted the middle cut out of the upper cork was to add
    milliput for strength and weight. BUT since one flat surface was really
    boring, I decided to make the base look like shattered rock! Luckily, I
    where I park on campus is really shoddy asphalt:

    So, using this as a guide I knew that is kind of made a spider-web
    pattern, but with triangles and a more semi-random pattern. I made the
    middle shallower than the edges when putting down the Milliput for
    realism and depth. Then I etched several bigger main lines before going
    over them and making smaller ones branching out. Most of the bigger
    ones were done while the clay was still quite soft, since that’s the
    only way to get really good depth on them. Some of the smaller lines
    were made with a knife after it had set, but you won’t have very good
    control with these or depth, so try and make as many lines while it’s
    still wet. After all that mad sculpting and gouging, it came out like

    As I said, the Milliput makes for better stability and weight
    distribution. Once I was done with that, I made holes for the pins by
    standing the semi-assembled Cyclops on top and marking where they’d go.
    You can pretty much just poke the pin through the cork, but the bigger
    pin Rackham made on the other foot needs to be cut from the cork or
    drilled into the milliput.
    After I knew where everything was, I glued the feet down with super
    glue gel. Then I added the flocking gels to the base and the snowtex to
    give texture. Now, I still wanted some more bits on to make it look
    REALLY EVIL, so I went to the hobby store, looked in the jewelry
    section and got some various widths of fine chain. If you do this, make
    sure you get the steal or brass kind, that way you won’t be covering up
    silver or gold. Now, the problem with chain is you can’t just stick it
    on anywhere. I had to cut through a link so it would look like it was
    hanging. Then you put regular super glue on the links. I’ve given up
    trying to stop it flowing into the loops, but you could use the rotary
    tool or a knife to clean them out (probably get filled again when you
    prime it, anyways).. I used a skull from Sophet Drahas’s base and a
    Lion Swordplayer’s head hanging from them and also hung a bit of bigger
    chain from his arm, like so:

    Now, the icing on the cake was to threaten my hated Tir-na-bor cousins,
    so using a Soldier of the Plains, I filed the back so it fit along his
    belt.. The topknot came off, so I had to use some GS on his head, and
    made his tongue lolling out, while I was at it!

    Here he is in his Zenithal Primed glory! Shots of him painted hopefully

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