GS/Duro/Kneadatite - 2:1 yellow to blue
- Thread starter Einion
- Start date
mickc22
Granddad!
Hi Einion
I checked the FAQ section over at 1listSculpting there wasn\'t any thing specific about different mix ratios.
Generally with a 1:1 mix at room temp (about 20C) I usually get about 1.5 hrs working time.
This lessens at warmer temps, so I have used less Blue (hardener) to give me more time. Though not measured exactly visually there was about twice as much Yellow (filler) to Blue
Time wise I tend to leave 3-4 hrs (without heating), I also keep a small amount of the mix to one side and give it a poke from time to time to see how it\'s setting
hope this is a bit helpful
Mick
I checked the FAQ section over at 1listSculpting there wasn\'t any thing specific about different mix ratios.
Generally with a 1:1 mix at room temp (about 20C) I usually get about 1.5 hrs working time.
This lessens at warmer temps, so I have used less Blue (hardener) to give me more time. Though not measured exactly visually there was about twice as much Yellow (filler) to Blue
Time wise I tend to leave 3-4 hrs (without heating), I also keep a small amount of the mix to one side and give it a poke from time to time to see how it\'s setting
hope this is a bit helpful
Mick
Einion
New member
That\'s surprising, I would have thought there\'d be at least something on varied ratios (given that it alters both working period and consistency!) Thanks for looking anyway.
That\'s pretty much how I do it most of the time - two balls of yellow, one ball of blue, of roughly the same size
3-4 hours is about what it should be. I\'m having to wait significantly longer; just wondered if anyone experienced the same thing.
I do much the same thing!
Einion
mickc22
Granddad!
well, I may not have been looking in the right place, but i couldn\'t see where else to look
there is a chart of green, white & brown, with the characteristics of each, saying you can alter said by mixing different fillers and hardeners. Just not different ratios of the one putty
what about PM Ming Hua directly, think he\'s minimaker on here as well??? or leave a msg on 1list
what about Prophet, he\'d know surely
there is a chart of green, white & brown, with the characteristics of each, saying you can alter said by mixing different fillers and hardeners. Just not different ratios of the one putty
what about PM Ming Hua directly, think he\'s minimaker on here as well??? or leave a msg on 1list
what about Prophet, he\'d know surely
Einion
New member
I was just doing a bit of a straw poll, see if anyone else here also used these rough proportions had similar working times.
I tend to get longer working time - and hence hardening and curing times - with all two-part putties, but over six hours to toughen up was getting a bit excessive! lol
I used to use a GS blend too (with Sylmasta, same thing that Mick mentions in the next post) and yeah, in its way it\'s better than either of the original putties.
This was before I first got my hands on MagicSculp which was about the same to work with for me and much easier to blend.
Yep, less \'rebound\' or memory.
Einion
I tend to use more blue than yellow when I\'m doing GS work. I guess it\'s down to personal preference, but for me it\'s better that it cures quicker, because I can start working with it sooner. I tend to loose my inspiration and motivation very quickly so this is kinda important.
Can\'t give you an exact working time. From what I remember, it was maybe 2.5 hours? about 45 minutes to an hour longer than a straight 1:1 mix. It\'s been a while since I\'ve used it though. I used to go yellow heavy whenever I had a large unbroken area like a robe or a cloak that I needed to do. Then I switched to a Fimo/GS mix for the extended working time and a couple years back switched to an Apoxie Sculpt/GS mix. You don\'t get quite the same working time extension, but the AS/GS mix is so much softer initially that it takes less time to knock out the basic shape. Plus it\'s sandable/carvable when dry.
I do remember yellow heavy mixes seeming to stay soft forever though.
I do remember yellow heavy mixes seeming to stay soft forever though.
Einion
New member
Thanks for the input Prophet.
Agree about AS or MS, so much easier to quickly press the shape in (with less sticking to tools too). And being able to easily carve and sand can be really handy of course.
Anyway, many two-part putties (not all) are pretty forgiving in this area but you can\'t go too far as then you won\'t get a proper cure (so the finished piece is softer and less robust). With GS I\'ve used 4:1 yellow to blue and it\'ll still set, eventually; it\'s very weak. I\'ve tried about the same with MagicSculp but the hardened putty is too crumbly for my taste* and unheated I\'ve seen it take 48 hours or longer to get past the \'leather hard\' stage!
Two things I would advise if you\'re using low proportions of hardener:
mix very thoroughly;
use heat for curing.
*To get the kind of looong working time that this was intended for I would instead recommend that you blend a 1:1 mix of MS with SuperSculpey or similar. You can get two or three times the length of sculpting time no problem, then set in boiling water or a low oven.
Einion
Agree about AS or MS, so much easier to quickly press the shape in (with less sticking to tools too). And being able to easily carve and sand can be really handy of course.
Aye, did a bit more yesterday: still soft enough to mark with a fingernail seven hours later when I was hitting the sack
This is something you can experiment with yourself quite easily - do some comparisons, see how it works out for you. It\'s not just about the working time though, the texture/feel of the putty can be quite different, enough that it is better or worse to use depending on your taste.
Anyway, many two-part putties (not all) are pretty forgiving in this area but you can\'t go too far as then you won\'t get a proper cure (so the finished piece is softer and less robust). With GS I\'ve used 4:1 yellow to blue and it\'ll still set, eventually; it\'s very weak. I\'ve tried about the same with MagicSculp but the hardened putty is too crumbly for my taste* and unheated I\'ve seen it take 48 hours or longer to get past the \'leather hard\' stage!
Two things I would advise if you\'re using low proportions of hardener:
mix very thoroughly;
use heat for curing.
*To get the kind of looong working time that this was intended for I would instead recommend that you blend a 1:1 mix of MS with SuperSculpey or similar. You can get two or three times the length of sculpting time no problem, then set in boiling water or a low oven.
Einion
mickc22
Granddad!
No Baz, sorry, wasn\'t that forward thinking to do a step-by-step
but basically it\'s just a large metal paint tin with a bulb holder fitted through the lid. I had an old push button switch(see I knew it would come in handy one day) that happened to fit in a hole in the light fitting. Wired it all up, cut a door (careful of sharp edges) wrapped it in Gaffer tape. The tape covers the sharp edges, makes the hinge and provides some insulation
cheap as chips too
but basically it\'s just a large metal paint tin with a bulb holder fitted through the lid. I had an old push button switch(see I knew it would come in handy one day) that happened to fit in a hole in the light fitting. Wired it all up, cut a door (careful of sharp edges) wrapped it in Gaffer tape. The tape covers the sharp edges, makes the hinge and provides some insulation
cheap as chips too
Einion
New member
That sounds like it would work!
The lightbulb-powered ones can be surprisingly effective. There\'s a pic of a member\'s drying oven from an old thread on pF; line it with aluminium foil and I imagine it would work even better.
Einion
