Mould lines

[ArmC]

Hi again, I have some problems with these awful mould lines so here it goes:

In a metal miniature, no matter how careful you try to be, sometimes you always have some mould lines left. This is obviously done for two reasons:
1. The line is in an almost tool - inaccesible spot
2. Trying to remove more of it will cause important details to go away,

I usually try to hide what\'s left of the mould lines with a thicker spot/layer of colour, but, to tell the truth, it doesnt always work so well.

Any of you with a better idea?

Thanx

 

[DaN]

tbh, the only time you should have a ML that you can\'t reach with a tool is when it\'s in such a place that it end up being pretty much unnoticeable on the finished figure- like the inside fold of a cloak or something.

What tools are you currently using?

 

[ArmC]

Nothing fancy, just the regular cutter and sandpaper (I think that´s how its called, forgive my english)

 

[tidoco2222]

Mould lines can be a real pain some of the more inaccessible ones can be got to a certain degree with needle files, I bought a set yeas ago with different shaped and thicknesses of file, also scalpel type knives have a wide variety of blades again length and thickness to suit. If a mould line is going to be in a place where it is practically unnoticeable then I wouldn\'t worry too much about it.
A general rule is run your thumb or fingernail over a mould line whilst doing your prep work and if you feel it catch ten generally it will be seen through the paintwork.
Adding thicker layers of paint is not really the way to go.
On occasion I have used green stuff on more troublesome mouldlines to try and blend and smooth out the affected area.

 

[Dragonsreach]

You can make you own specialist tools by supergluing small section Emery (Automotive Wet & dry) paper to toothpicks.
There are a number of fine tools out in the marketplace which will also help. I use This one.

Plus for some moulding lines it\'s easier to take a needle and Burnish the line away after scraping.

 

[Einion]

Originally posted by DaN
tbh, the only time you should have a ML that you can\'t reach with a tool is when it\'s in such a place that it end up being pretty much unnoticeable on the finished figure- like the inside fold of a cloak or something.

What he said.

Tsakalesis, obviously you can miss a mould line (shockingly some only become obvious to you when you\'re admiring your finished paintjob, how\'s that happen?!) but the figure should be examined closely under good lighting at all angles to spot mould lines and every one should be dealt with before priming. After priming you look again, deal with any you missed (or that didn\'t go as flat as you\'d thought) and then you lightly prime again.

Few things make one\'s work seem more amateurish than obvious mould lines on a painted figure - it just smacks of laziness or carelessness.

Originally posted by Tsakalesis
Nothing fancy, just the regular cutter and sandpaper (I think that´s how its called, forgive my english)

I think you should get yourself some needle files. The half-round is the best single profile to get, if you had to have just one, but a round and a triangular one are also well worth having.

My tools for cleanup on metal figures:
scrapers
craft knives with at least two blade shapes
needle files
needles
fine abrasive paper
brass brush
silicone-rubber bits for motor tool
epoxy putty

Einion

 

[Sauce Devil]

I like the toothpick idea, I\'ll have to try that myself.

Make sure you\'ve got a good selection of needle files, the different shapes all have their uses.

I\'ve heard that some people use a brass suede brush to polish their minis, I haven\'t tried it but I\'ll buy one on the weekend and try it out on an old throw-away mini.

I finish off minis by polishing them with the needle tool that comes in craft-knife sets (a large sewing needle will do), rubbing the surfaces with the side of the needle has a fine abrasive effect which will bring the surfaces up to a shine. I still get problems with fine detail like GW Daemonette faces though.

 

[freakinacage]

Originally posted by Dragonsreach
You can make you own specialist tools by supergluing small section Emery (Automotive Wet & dry) paper to toothpicks.

yeah this is a great one. also rather than cutting it down, have you tried a little putty to bring up the other side? sometimes that helps

 

[No Such Agency]

I\'m waiting for the tool that will clean up giant &#$% raised mould lines across chainmail and faces - is there a wee chisel for that? :cussing:

 

[Einion]

Originally posted by No Such Agency
I\'m waiting for the tool that will clean up giant &#$% raised mould lines across chainmail and faces - is there a wee chisel for that? :cussing:

Mould lines that go across complex detail are a right pain!

Einion

 

[Dragonsreach]

Originally posted by No Such Agency
I\'m waiting for the tool that will clean up giant &#$% raised mould lines across chainmail and faces - is there a wee chisel for that? :cussing:

Yes.
http://www.historexagents.com/shop/hxproductdetail.php?ProductCode=EMMM9
http://www.historexagents.com/shop/hxproductdetail.php?ProductCode=EMMM10
http://www.historexagents.com/shop/hxproductdetail.php?ProductCode=EMMM11

 

[Roger Bunting]

Now you tell us, after I\'ve gone through 400 skaven with mould lines on their fur...

 

[Dragonsreach]

Originally posted by Roger Bunting
Now you tell us, after I\'ve gone through 400 skaven with mould lines on their fur...

Well you can\'t say I haven\'t told people before. lol
I\'ve posted those links at least half a dozen times previously, and NSA did say he wanted one then.
Asked him if he wanted one arranging for him, but I assumed he\'d done it himself.

 

[Roger Bunting]

I refuse to believe something I\'ve forgotten. As far as I\'m concerned I had no knowledge of any other times you posted the links. :innocent: :redface:

 

[Dragonsreach]

Well another superb bit of customer service from Historex Agents, ordered the EMMM10 yesterday as I posted the link.
Arrived via Post 10 minutes ago.
Lots of catalogue stuff to peruse as well.


Very happy camper.

 

[lahatiel]

Micro-chisels for those of us on this side of the pond:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80893

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82709

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83253

 

[donga666]

I know Historex are good, but Hannants are good too:

http://www.hannants.co.uk/search/?FULL=MMEM009

Cheeper! For the same product.

 

[Olaf the Stout]

The tool is called a chisel but do you actually need to hit the end of the chisel with something or do you just sort of \"slide\" it along the surface of the mini?

I imagine if the chisel is sharp enough it should just shear the mould line off with just a little bit of pressure.

Olaf the Stout

 

[Dragonsreach]

Originally posted by Olaf the Stout
The tool is called a chisel but do you actually need to hit the end of the chisel with something or do you just sort of \"slide\" it along the surface of the mini?

It\'s a Push Chisel not an impact one.
Steady hand pressure works best .

 

[Olaf the Stout]

Originally posted by Dragonsreach

Originally posted by Olaf the Stout
The tool is called a chisel but do you actually need to hit the end of the chisel with something or do you just sort of \"slide\" it along the surface of the mini?

It\'s a Push Chisel not an impact one.
Steady hand pressure works best .

Cool, that\'s pretty much how I imagined it worked. Do you use it instead of a hobby knife to get rid of mould lines or only for those hard to reach spots?

It looks like it would do a better job of removing mould lines compared to your basic hobby knife.

Olaf the Stout