Almost done ...
- Thread starter frenchkid
- Start date
tidoco2222
Active member
I think the red looks great possibly a lighter highlight on the very highest areas of the folds wouldn\'t hurt.
On the left hand edge of the mini as it is shown in the photo the lighter highlight could just do with running up towards the shoulder a bit more. IMHO that is.
On the left hand edge of the mini as it is shown in the photo the lighter highlight could just do with running up towards the shoulder a bit more. IMHO that is.
Propaintjob
New member
sweet as a nut frenchkid, take that left hand high light a little further and it\'ll be spot on
Propaintjob
New member
I\'m no expert on nmm but maybe a darker brown on the shaded parts of the mail will help.
BTW nice fleshtones
BTW nice fleshtones
Chrispy
Active member
Yeah, it\'s kinda looking brassy.. my take: use a dark earthtone red with a tiny tint of orage and highlight with a pink (light fleshtone like Pallid Flesh preferable).
On my Sister of Battle I used Red Leather, Old Rose and Light Flesh, I believe, on the Fleur de Lis.
Hope this helps!
On my Sister of Battle I used Red Leather, Old Rose and Light Flesh, I believe, on the Fleur de Lis.
Hope this helps!
Valander
Member
Looking good so far, but I agree it looks more \"brassy\" than copper. I remember reading that Thierry Husser (aka Ark, Arkaal) uses Vallejo Model Colors 818 (Red Leather) as a base, 815 (Basic Skin Tone) as medium, and 951 (White) for highlights for his copper NMM. I was trying to link to Cerridwyn1st\'s website, where she\'s compiled a full list of his \"recipes,\" but it appears down at the moment. http://www.wolfbar.org/cerridwyn1st is the link, should it happen to show up in the near future.
Legacy Account
Active member
A more evenly lit photo would help. It looks good so far though! I just received one of these fellas with my CMON contest mini - about 30 minutes ago! He\'s a fantastic sculpt (i\'m looking forward to painting him more than the contest mini for sure....).
mattsterbenz
New member
ok here is my NMM copper.
1. Begin with scorched brown.
2. Layer up to vermin brown.
3. add a bit of dwarf flesh to the vermin brownfor the next layer
4. Add white until you get to pure white on the edges.
hope this helps
1. Begin with scorched brown.
2. Layer up to vermin brown.
3. add a bit of dwarf flesh to the vermin brownfor the next layer
4. Add white until you get to pure white on the edges.
hope this helps
Thanks all for your replies, Now I\'m confused between the metals, I don\'t know the difference between brass and copper I was kinf of going for the look of musique instruments but a bit reder. I\'ll try to redo it going from a redish brown up to white with a bit of light skin tone in between. WE\'ll see what comes out of it. And thanks again for allt eh good advice.
And small question should you also take the highlights up to white on NMM copper ???
I was kinf of going for the look of musique instruments but a bit reder. I\'ll try to redo it going from a redish brown up to white with a bit of light skin tone in between. WE\'ll see what comes out of it. And thanks again for allt eh good advice. And small question should you also take the highlights up to white on NMM copper ???
Chrispy
Active member
Here they are, I saved them as a text file (luck I found it, though...)
For grass I use fine sand glued with white glue.
28 (game color) Dark Green [Arrow] 833 Germ.cam. [Arrow] 854 Yellow green.
STEEL: 903 Intermediate Blue Pale Grey Blue 907 White 951
BRONZE: 43 Beasty Brown (game color) 856 Ochre Maroon 927 Dark Flesh 918 Ivory
COPPER : 818 Red Leather for the dark zones, 815 bases skintone for the light zones and 951 White for the glare.
CHAINMAIL: 866 Grey green, 836 London Grey, 989 Sky Grey, 951 White
GOLD: Green Ochre 914 , Light Yellow 949, White 951 for the brightness.
BRASS : 43 Beasty Brown (Game Color) 978 Dark Yellow 951 White. And for the oxidation : 808 Blue Green.
FLESH : 43 Beasty Brown (Game Color) / 803 Brown Rose (50%-50%) 815 Base Skintone 815 Base skinton/ 951 White (50%-50%).
LEATHER: 984 Flat Brown 856 Ochre Maroon. Or 841 Burnt Umber USA Tan-Earth. Or 43 Beasty Brown (Game Color) 914 Green Ochre.
RUST: 859 Cadmium Maroon (Black Red) or 984 Flat Brown.
Robe of Sin:
898 Dark Sea Blue 903 Intermediate Blue
903 Intermediate Blue 907 Pale Grey Blue
982 Cavalry Brown - 984 Flat Brown very very very diluted
swords from Pilzenbhir :
866 Grey Green 836 London Grey 990 Light Grey 907 Pale Blue Grey 951 White
28 (game color) Dark Green 833 Germ.cam. 854 Yellow green.
Kassar\'s skin:
Ivory 918 (2 thirds) and Green Ochre 914 (1 third) to Green Ochre 914.
Exorcist:
866 Grey green, 836 London grey, 807 Pale grey blue, 807 Oxford blue.
Blade of the Watcher:
859 Maroon Cadmium, 807 Oxford blue, 907 Blade Grey blue, 951 White.
Excorcist Armor:
807 Oxford Blue (dark),866 Grey Green (mid-tone),836 London Grey (light),907 Pale Grey Blue (glare)
W
Warworks
Guest
I think the difference between brass and copper is that brass is more of a brown-gold metal, while copper is more of a red-gold metal.
As for using white to finish the highlights, it should be okay as long as it is small, and patterned only where the brightest light would catch. Great job on this mini, can\'t wait to see him done.
As for using white to finish the highlights, it should be okay as long as it is small, and patterned only where the brightest light would catch. Great job on this mini, can\'t wait to see him done.
D
DanseMacabre
Guest
Wow very cool work! only thing i feel to suggest you is to improve the gorgon head and the cape that are a bit under the whole quality of the mini.
Bravo!
Bravo!
Thanks all
ok here it is finnished Thanks to all those who helped me, I\'m really starting to see some improvement because of all that good advice well here it is
finnished !!
ok here it is finnished
Thanks to all those who helped me, I\'m really starting to see some improvement because of all that good advice well here it isfinnished !!
