Display cabinet from a deep frame (tute?)

DaN

New member
So here\'s ANOTHER thing I did and wondered if it was worth putting up as a tutorial...

So I found a cheap wooden deep frame (Looks like balsa) and thought about adding some shelving for a display case...

So I got some thin bits of offcut would (not too thick) and measure the right lengths to comfortably fit in the box frame, and marked on the back of the frame some decent heights between the shelves to actually fit figures ON...

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Here I was testing the height of the shelving with a tall figure - leaving it a comfortable amount of room

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Here you can see the depth of the frame isn\'t all THAT much, but enough for most regular 28mm figures

Once I had the shelving marked out and everything, I got some small tacks of adequate length and hammered the shevles in place. I had to do this carefully while supporting the inside of the frame as if I slipped or the shelf moved I could have smashed the delicate wood :s

Once the shelves were in place, I went around the edges of the joins with Wood glue (PVA) I did this AFTER nailing the wood in place as I figured the glue might lessen the friction when it came to nailing and the shelving might have moved out of place.

I placed the backing on to ensure it FIT with the new shelving.
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Thank God it did :D
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I then went to mark a position on the wall I wanted it to go. I had already screwed in a support for the hanger, but wanted some extra support beneath to steady it and keep it level.
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I used to more small offcuts to provide this.
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I placed the empty cabinet in place and checked with a mini spirit level that it was level.
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:bouncy: HURRAH! SUCCESS! :flip:
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Now... Not to say I don\'t trust my workmanship or I\'m paranoid or anything BUT... lol
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miniDrake

New member
Dan you should take the two bottom bits of wood cut then in the middle at a 45 degree angle fix one to your display cabinet and the other to the wall.

That makes a wall mounted cleat level both pieces on the wall and on the backboard and it will give you one of the strongest mountings possible.It also means when you go to mount the cabinet to the wall it will be level once both parts of the cleat lock.

I have used them for fixing headboards on large hotel contracts even on large borders around panto stages to hold up plywood bean stacks and the like.

That way you will not have to worry about it falling off the wall as the only way it can is if the wall falls down :).
 

DaN

New member
I did think about doing a proper bracket and 45 degree load-bearing stuff but tbh I couldn\'t be arsed :D

I just thought it was a nice cheap alternative to a ready-made display cabinet :)

Cheers tho - if I make this a tute I\'ll add something about alternative fixings.
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
a bit of edge trim molding would really help the plywood shelves not look so much like plywood.

I wouldn\'t trust that pull tap hanger with 50 lbs of lead in that shelf. I\'d definatly consider a more solid hanging system and make sure you are into more than plaster/sheetrock.
 

DaN

New member
The hanging of the cabinet seems to be the biggest issue here - as obviously you don\'t want your prized GD winner smashing into a thousand pieces as it falls off the wall! :p

A degree of common sense would also go with what you put IN the cabinet, but as the cabinet doesn\'t have a door and you have to physically remove it from the wall each time, then fixing it securely becomes more of a problem...

Well - it\'s fine for my purposes as I won\'t be putting a lot of heavy pieces inside, and it more of an experimental exercise, but if I get round to making this into a tutorial I\'d definitely put more thought into the securing of the cabinet to the wall :)
 
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