Fairly simple layered shoudler pads
- Thread starter DaN
- Start date
Roger Bunting
New member
If you can get it to work it would look good, but I think doing it with plastcard could be a problem as you\'re not just having to bend it around the pad one way, it curves vertically as well. Maybe greenstuff, or something that can give a sharper edge like brownstuff, would be better.
EDIT: Obviously you\'ve thought of that...duh, stupid me. Should engage my brain first but it\'s still early morning. :redface:
EDIT: Obviously you\'ve thought of that...duh, stupid me. Should engage my brain first but it\'s still early morning. :redface:
Aye, I realised this after testing it. lol
I\'m glad I put the idea first before doing an article :innocent:
Aaaaanyhoo...
Unfortunately, the odd shape of the marine pads mean that plasticard doesn\'t follow the curves of the pad, as not only does the tap curve round the X axis (Horizontal), but also tapers towards the top edge, meaning the plasticard does not lay flat.
I\'m sure that with expert carving and bending this can be overcome, but for now, I have decided that putty is the easier option for MARINE pads. This method is still viable for scratchbuilt pads, however.
The revised method for SM pads, means that you only carve the bottom part of the pad trim, dependant on how many and how thick you want the following layered strips to be. Holes are drilled and filled with a blob of putty as before.
Once you have done this, use a thin squashed layer of putty to fill the rest of pad, flush with the remaining trim - this will give you one layer.Once this has cured, drill your holes in the relevant postion again and tidy the edges of the putty and file smooth any lumps or bumps.
Use another small blob of putty and squash it flat over the top, leaving a strip the same width as the bottom. Repeat steps as necessary.
Photos still to come.
I\'m glad I put the idea first before doing an article :innocent:
Aaaaanyhoo...
Unfortunately, the odd shape of the marine pads mean that plasticard doesn\'t follow the curves of the pad, as not only does the tap curve round the X axis (Horizontal), but also tapers towards the top edge, meaning the plasticard does not lay flat.
I\'m sure that with expert carving and bending this can be overcome, but for now, I have decided that putty is the easier option for MARINE pads. This method is still viable for scratchbuilt pads, however.
The revised method for SM pads, means that you only carve the bottom part of the pad trim, dependant on how many and how thick you want the following layered strips to be. Holes are drilled and filled with a blob of putty as before.
Once you have done this, use a thin squashed layer of putty to fill the rest of pad, flush with the remaining trim - this will give you one layer.Once this has cured, drill your holes in the relevant postion again and tidy the edges of the putty and file smooth any lumps or bumps.
Use another small blob of putty and squash it flat over the top, leaving a strip the same width as the bottom. Repeat steps as necessary.
Photos still to come.
