How to Finish Raw Wooden Bases?

[Wren]

I\'d like to try putting a mini on a wooden display base, but I\'m not entirely sure how to go about that. I have a plain wooden base, but it will need to be finished. I know I\'ll need to sand it, but can anyone go over the exact procedure I\'d need to follow to finish the base to a decent standard (that\'s not too time consuming, I\'ve got a bit of a deadline). I\'ll need to get stain or something I\'m assuming? Keep in mind I\'m the kind of person who doesn\'t spend a lot of time in hardware stores when explaining things.

Also once the base is ready what is the best way to attach the miniature scene to it?

 

[mattsterbenz]

Paint the stain on, making sure that your brush strokes \"follow the grain\" of the wood. Since you are in a rush I would recommend getting some stain/polyurethane mix. Minwax Polyshades is pretty good, just pick a color you\'ll think will go well with the figure. It will be dry to the touch in maybe 12 hours, fully dry in 24-48 hours.

I\'ve always used superglue, but you could easily drill a hole into the base and pin the mini on to it.

-Matt

 

[demonherald]

Million and one ways depending on what effect you want to achieve and what wood your using.... also are you wanting the block to become part of the base or do you want to keep the mini so it can be seperated....??

Depending on the wood and colour most hardware stores (at least here in the uk ) carry a wide range of varnishes and stains.. the make I prefer is Ronseal (it does exactly what it says on the tin) you can get gloss varnish stains that colour with a gloss finish ,or stains and varnish seperately....

If you want a flat colour finish then I prefer to use Plasti kote satin sprays..usually take a couple of light sprays but do the job....

to attatch the models and scenery all depends on what effect you want to achieve... If you want to keep the mini on a base then I find the best way is to build up the scenery round the base using cork to create the base space then use rare earth magnets to attatch the based model.. 5mm are a good size and are cheap and easily available .. I drill a hole in the block then use putty and glue to set the first magnet so it is flush to the block surface. Then attach the second magnet to this fill the bottom of the mini base with putty then press the base into position.. after drying I then glue the magnet into the bottom....

if the mini isn\'t to be based then I just build the scene and pin in the model...
worth noting here is if you are using a varnish finish do all the buildwork and painting before applyig the finish and use masking tape to keep the wood as clean as possible...

It\'s 3a.m here now but in the morning I will shoot sme pics of 4 different WIP competition bases I have which just happen to cover the 4 different methods I use...:beer:

 

[ErunnerXI]

I\'ve done a bit of my own furniture so the same should hold true for any sort of wood, really.
You want to sand it. The sander you want to use is very fine, and it looks like a sponge. It\'s just a little rectangular block you can get at wal mart or something. You can paint the stain on with a paintbrush, and I\'ve even seen it done with a rag. You\'ll sand that layer again lightly and apply a second coat.

Also, I saw a neat way to finish wood, distressed or antiqued, whatever you want to call it. Paint the wood a dark color, like black. Sand that down in some areas harder than others then apply the stain throughout.

Just grab a scrap peice of wood and try it out a few times yourself.

 

[Wren]

Thanks guys! More questions...

If I need to stain then sand then stain again, isn\'t it pretty chancy to attach everything and paint first?

I\'m thinking of having the mini look like it\'s on tile or stonework or something like that, so I\'ll probably just want to lay a sheet of textured styrene on the top then pin stuff on.

 

[Shawn R. L.]

DON\'T USE WATER BASED STAIN. Might warp the wood.

 

[falela]

Wren, here is thread on Timelines forum on finishing coat on base. You can see what people are using:

link

 

[Selya]

1) sand the wooden base. Don\'t use sandpaper, though; use steel wool (the super-fine kind that is used for furniture). Be gentle or you\'ll leave streaks in the wood (if you\'re using those cheap soft wood babes that you get from Brico stores...)

2) take an old t-shirt or a piece of wool and remove the sanding residue VERY CAREFULLY. Otherwise it will soak up the stain and leave ugly blotches.

3) Take another piece of a discarded T-shirt, dip it into your chosen stain and gently caress your base, following the wood\'s grain. (Some other people like to use a brush, but I find it harder to control the quantity that way...)
Do many light passings, not an heavy one, and you\'ll be able to use even water-based stains without warping the wood if you brush on some wood conditioner before staining. I have tried many brands (all of them cheap ones from a Brico store) and got more or less the same results in the end, after you\'ve poured on the resin finish, but gel stains are the easiest to use.
Remember also that stain alwais dries darker.

4) Let the base dry overnight

5) Buy one of those two-part resin-based finishes. Here it is worth investing a little more money, as the finish is everything!
I found a very good one but forgot the brand; I\'ll check if you are interested. Anyway, place your base on a Pringles tube or something - there must be free space under its sides - with LOTS of newspapers underneath. Mix the two components and pour them over the base. With a piece of paper \"guide\" the fluid so that the excess flows down the sides and covers them evenly. Wait a couple minutes, then gently breath on the base - that will bring the air bubbles to the surface. Let it stay for 48 hours, well covered under a box (if dust or hair gets stuck, it will spoil the finish and you won\'t be able to remove it!)
When it\'s dry, the finish will be shiny and glass-like, but with some \"spring\" (if you press into it with your fingernail, you will leave a mark, but it will disappear)
If some drops condensed under the base, scrape them off with a blade.
You\'re done!

 

[Einion]

Do you have any shellac or can you get any?

Einion

 

[Dragonsreach]

The only use I\'ve found for GW\'s Spray \'Ardcoat.
Does varnish wood to a gloss coat quite nicely. ----- Useless for models great for wood.lol

 

[eastman]

When I use wood for a display base, I like the hardwoods (sometimes the more exotic ones). I use an oil finish (Watco Danish Oil), in the \"natural\" version. They have colored versions that stain and seal, but I prefer the wood\'s natural color.

My process - sand until very smooth belt sander up to 320 grit, hand sand 400 to 600 grit.

Wipe off all of the dust with tack cloth and apply first coat of oil. Let soak in for the time on the directions, then add a second coat and wet sand the oil with 600 grit sandpaper. Wipe off any remaining oil after the set time (15 minutes IIRC). If necessary, repeat the wet sanding oil one more time (if the wood continues to soak up all of the oil).

Let sit overnight. Next day, repeat the wet sanding with oil finish, let sit for 5 minutes, then wipe off.

The oil finish will be cured after an overnight wait. Then the figures can be added to the base.

 

[Legacy Account]

Cellulose sanding sealer, that\'s what you need.

Sand to the finest finish you can get, then apply a coat of sealer. Allow it to dry and it\'ll make all the imperfections really apparent and raise the grain. Sand back to a fine finish and apply your varnish.

If you don\'t do the sealer thing, the first coat of varnish will have the same effect as the sealer, and raise the grain making the wood look and feel rough.