Mousekiller\'s Step by step Dwarf Warrior

[mousekiller]

Ok, so a long time ago... in a galaxy far far away... I did a step by step on the Avatars of War Dwarf Berserker. Someone asked me shortly after that if I would consider doing a tutorial on just a simple miniature, like a warrior. So, now that I am painting up the dwarf army, I will do just that.

The miniatures that I will be painting are from the Games Workshop 6.5 edition Dwarf Warriors Plastic Regiment.

I have already done a few things to them that I should mention. Obviously, I assembled them. Then, to prepare the bases, I used spackling compound and spread it over the top of every base (sorry no pics, but that is life for you)... once that was dry, I drilled a small hole in the foot of each dwarf and stuck a piece of paper clip wire with a bit of green stuff to keep it in place. Drill a hole in the base, glue, and done. Then I primered them with black primer.

So, that is where we are when we begin.

First thing, because these guys are all chainmail and armour, I figure we should start with a nice drybrushing of Games Workshop Boltgun Metal. I was not all that concerned with being neat and tidy as a lot of it will get painted over. Plus, because I change my water after using metallics, I decided to drybrush all 10 warriors, and the 6 remaining quarrellers that I had left to paint.

Next, I gave a very liberal black wash to the miniature. I use DIDI\'S Magic Wash, which is made in house by The War Store (www.thewarstore.com), which I typically get most of my miniature stuff from - especially the Games Workshop and Reaper stuff as all of that is listed at 20% off store price. It used to be called Kel\'s Magic Wash, but they changed the name about a year ago (I think DIDI is the owners wife)...

That is it for now. I will be back with an update soon. If anyone wants to chime in with there own tips during particular steps, that would be great.

 

[mousekiller]

Got the day off so I am getting a bit done...

On to the skin. For the skin I am using Games Workshop Dark Flesh, Tanned Flesh, Dwarf Flesh, and Elf Flesh. I really like how these play off of each other.

The first layer is a nice base coat of Dark Flesh. Get all the recesses with this.

Next, I use Tanned Flesh. I apply this in two coats. The first is thinned down a bit and covers all of the areas except the extreme recesses (in between the fingers, against the sleeves, etc). Next, I got back over everthing with another coat of Tanned Flesh and make sure to hit all the raised areas, to include making small stripes down the hands where the tendons would be.

Now we are on to the highlighting stage. This is a 50 50 mix of Tanned Flesh and Dwarf Flesh. This one hits all the raised areas, to include the entire length of the fingers.

 

[mousekiller]

Next is another highlight of Dwarf Flesh. At this point we start to back off from the previous layers a bit. What I mean by this, is instead of doing the entire finger, start at the joint and simply bring it forward about a quarter of the finger. Same with the tendons, basically you want a small bit of the previous color still showing.

Next is a 50 50 mix of Dwarf Flesh and Elf Flesh. Another highlight, and back off a bit from the previous color.

And the final highlight is Elf Flesh. On this one we are only hitting the extreme raised edges (knuckles, joints, a small highlight to the top finger, small highlight to the nose and cheeks).

And that does it for the skin. It looks a bit plain right now, but once we start adding more colors the eye will start to see the highlights a lot better.

 

[starchaser1]

keep it comeing mate

 

[gary]

This is a great idea to see a miniature from start to finish but from the pictures it seems like you need to start again. The undercoat looks like it has left a bity texture to the model, it looks like it\'s from top to bottom and it would be sad to see all your hard work and time wasted because the underoat didn\'t go on right.

Hope this doesn\'t sound like i\'m picking silly faults it just really stood out to me in the photos you posted.
Gary

 

[mousekiller]

Ok, beard time. There are probably a lot of easier ways to do beards, but this is how I am doing them these days.

I will be using Reaper Master Series Bloodstain Red, Russet Brown, Fiery Orange, Lemon Yellow, and Pure White. Also DIDI\'s Black Magic Wash.

So the first step is the base coat, which is equal parts Bloodstain Red and Russet Brown.

Next, keeping the same mix of paint, I add an equal part of Fiery Orange. The goal with this round is to highlight up the more pronounced part of the beard, leaving the deep recesses the base color. I am not really worried about trying to highlight individual strands yet.

Next, I add another equal part of Fiery Orange to my mix (this is the same bit of paint that I started with). This time I use the brush and brush away from the face, picking out all the thick pieces of hair.

Another equal part Fiery Orange to the mix. Again, highlighting the strands of hair.

 

[mousekiller]

Next up we add an equal part Lemon Yellow to the same mix. Highlighting strands of hair now.

Next is another highlight, adding another equal part of Lemon Yellow to the mix.

And the final highlight, adding an equal part of Pure White.

Finally, I make a wash using Bloodstain Red, Russet Brown, and a few drops of DIDI\'s Black Magic Wash and wash the entire area. This should bring back a reddish tint to the beard.

Until the next update folks...

Starchaser1: Will do mate.

gary: Not nitpicky at all mate. I think the graininess is from the photo\'s though, as I don\'t see them on the mini itself. I will see what I can do to fix that on the photos.

 

[mousekiller]

Onto the blue stuff we go...

Ok, for this round I used Reaper Master Series Ultramarine Shadow, Ultramarine Blue, Ultramarine Highlight and Sky Blue.

First up, the base color. Ultramarine Shadow. I applied this to the helmet and the sleeves.

Next came a mix of equal parts Ultramarine Shadow and Ultramarine Blue. This covered all but the deeper recesses.

Then we start a layering effect. On the helmets I am moving towards the top of the helmets to make them lighter. On the sleeves I am moving to the uppermost point of the sleeves to make them lighter. Ultramarine Blue.

Next is the same, but an equal parts of Ultramarine Blue and Ultramarine Highlight.

 

[mousekiller]

Next, more of the same. Ultramarine Highlight. Now we are making the highlights much skinnier.

Then an equal parts mix of Ultramarine Highlight and Sky Blue.

And a final highlight with just Sky Blue to the extreme tops of everything.

 

[mousekiller]

Ok, this will be the last update for today... Onto the white portions. For the white I will be using Games Workshop Beastial Brown, Reaper Master Series Stained Ivory, Yellowed Bone, Creamy Ivory, and Pure White.

The first step is the base coat, which is the Bestial Brown.

Next, we cover this with the Stained Ivory, even allowing a bit of really watered down stained ivory into some of the creases of the shirt.

And now, just as for the blue, we start to highlight up a bit. Equal parts of Stained Ivory and Yellowed Bone.

And then Yellowed Bone.

 

[mousekiller]

Follow this with equal parts Yellowed Bone and Creamy Ivory.

Then, start highlighting just the extremes using Creamy Ivory.

And a final highlight of Creamy Ivory and Pure White (equal parts).

 

[mousekiller]

Ok folks, onto a bit of metal. One thing I have to say at this point is that metal parts are very tricky. It takes a lot of time and patience to get it the way you want it. That is one reason that I break it down into stages. So, this is the second stage for the metal. To do this stage I used Games Workshop Boltgun Metal, Chainmail, and Mithril Silver. Also, I used DIDI\'s Black Magic Wash and Brown Magic Wash.

Stage one is a much more controlled version of the very beginning, when we did a dry brush of the whole miniature. In particular, I am concentrating on getting nice even swipes on the more solid pieces of metal. Also, highlighting the chainmail (disclaimer... I hate chainmail on plastic miniatures... some areas always seem to be just fine while others look a bit half donkeyed)...

Next up is an overall highlight of Chainmail. Only try to get the uppermost parts of the chainmail if you can.

And finally, a highlight of Mithril to the more solid metal parts. Also, on the weapon itself I am highlighting out from the center, and from the top down.

 

[mousekiller]

Ok, another was of Black. The way I do this is I hit all the edges first, then I do a quick swipe across all the metal parts.

This is followed by a brown wash. I really get this wash onto the chainmail, and then lightly on the solid pieces (including the weapon)... I want the chainmail to have a bit of a brownish tint to it when all is said and done.

Ok, so that is it for this stage of metal, and likely the only update for today (fireworks and family and all)... I will say that the metal is NOT complete at this stage. It still needs a lot of work. We will be getting back to it a little further along on the miniature.

 

[mousekiller]

Ok, fireworks are over and I have decided to get a little more work done tonight. On with the GOLD...

Ok, for this stage we need Games Workshop Scorched Brown and Tin Bitz, Reaper Master Series Antique Bronze, Antique Gold, New Gold, and Pearl White.

First thing, the base coat. Scorched Brown will be used here. Incidentally, I am also basecoating the horns, axehandle, boots, and belt in scorched brown at this point.

Next up is a coat of Tin Bitz. This just goes on the ornament on the axehead on this guy, but I also use it for a bit of jewelry on the champion and in other spots that you might deem necessary to make gold.

And, using as good a brush control as you can manage, a layer of Antique Bronze.

 

[mousekiller]

Next up is a highlighted layer of Antique Gold.

Then a highlighted layer of New Gold.

And finally, an extremely cautious highlight of equal parts New Gold and Pearl White. Pearl White is just a metallic white... you could probably substitute Pure White for this if you don\'t have a Pearl White.

 

[mousekiller]

Ok, back to the chainmail for this update. What we use during this stage is DIDI\'s Magic Washes: Red, Brown, Black. Also, Games Workshop Chainmail.

First up, mix up a redish brown wash using roughly 1 part red wash to 4 parts brown. Apply this wash randomly to the chainmail. All I want to do here is add a hint of rusty type color to the armour, though not too much, as Dwarfs I would think take care of their equipment.

Next up is an overall wash of equal parts brown and black wash.

A final highlight of chainmail.

And another brown black wash, only this time just in the recesses.

Ok, back to the armour/weapon. I will say at this point I am not completely happy with the armour, but I have to remember that he is a unit trooper, and so I have to think along the lines of how they will all look together. Anyway, for this stage we need Games workshop Chainmail and Mithril Silver. We also need Reaper Master Series Polished Silver.

First up, a new layer of chainmail.

Then a layer of Mithril Silver. I am being cautious here to only apply to the edges of things.

Then an extreme highlight of Polished Silver.

And that should do it. Here is a body shot to show you all of the armour at this point.

 

[mousekiller]

Good afternoon all... Anyway, onto the wood grain. We will need Games Workshop Bestial Brown, Snakebite Leather, and Desert Yellow. This is a quick and easy way to do wood. You can adapt this if you want, adding another highlight, etc... but for these warriors I think it is sufficient.

So, we have already base coated the horns in scorched brown in a previous stage. Now what we are going to do, is use bestial brown. The idea here is to add streaks up the haft of the weapon, making them wiggly, wobbly, maybe a knot here and there, I think you get the point.

Next, we highlight the bestial brown lines with Snakebite Leather.

And a final highlight of Desert Sand.

See, quick and easy.




Ok, next up are the horns. Another quick and easy for us. What we will need is Games Workshop Bestial Brown and Reaper Master Series Dune Shadow, Desert Khaki, and Desert Sand. Incidentally, this is also the recipe I use for the ropes on the crossbowmen.

This step could have easily been done at the same time as the weapon haft. This is really easy. Using a fine brush, get your paint just a little more watered down then usual. Make sure to brush off the excess water (I usually do a quick swipe across the top of my finger) or else you take the chance of drenching the miniature. Lightly touch the tip to the horn at the base and draw up to the tip of the horn, increasing pressure slightly as you do so. The goal is to leave scorched brown streaks at the base of the horn.

And the same with the dune shadow, just starting further up from the base of the horn so a bit of the bestial brown will still show.

By the time we get to the Desert Khaki we should be more than half way up the horn. On longer horns, this stage should beging where the horn starts to curve.

And the final highlight of Desert Sand. This should really just be the tip of the horn with very small streaks going down.

 

[mousekiller]

Ok, onto the leather. For this stage we will need Reaper Master Series Ruddy Leather, Oiled Leather, and Burnt Orange.

Remember, previously we gave all the leather stuff (boots, belts) a base coat of games workshop scorched brown. This next step is applying a coat of Ruddy Leather on top of that.

Ok, the next few steps are just highlighting up, typically for belts I move up from the bottom to the top, the top being the brightes area.

A mix of equal parts Oiled Leather and Burnt Orange.

And finally a fine highlight of Burnt Orange.

Almost done folks. Still going to do a ruby... and also the base will need to be done. Once that is done I plan to show you a few other beard work ups as well, and finally a shot of all 10 warriors together.

 

[CreganTur]

This is a really good WIP... but the graininess on the really close-up pics really kill the paint job. The pics you take from slightly farther away do the mini a lot more justice.

I like the wood haft on the axe, but are you going to do any blending on it, or leave it as is?

 

[mousekiller]

Ok, gemtime folks. For this stage you will need Reaper Master Series Bloodstain Red, Savage Red, Fiery Orange, and Pure White. Also, you will need some Future Floor Polish (if anyone knows like substances please chime in).

So, a nice base of Bloodstain Red, which is a nice dark red, to the helmet and the two gems on the axehead. The one on the helmet is actually square, so you could do this two ways. Because he is just a warrior, I am going to go the easier way, and that is to paint it like a circular gem. But, if you are really aching for a good time, you could paint stripes leading to the center of the sqaure to give it some dimension.

Next, I am going to go with Savage Red. This is a bit brighter, and will give a good contrast to the darker Bloodstain Red. If this was a bigger gem, I would probably do a succession in between these two. The idea is to paint a sort of crescent moon away from where you want the point of reflection. In this case, I want the point of reflection in the upper right quadrant, which means my crescent (roughly half the size to 3/4 size of the gem) will be in the lower left quadrant.

Now, a very thin strip of Fiery orange in a crescent shape in the lower left quadrant.

And finally, a small dot of pure white in the upper left quadrant.

Ok, this stage really should wait until after you dull coat the model, but I am going to go ahead and do it now so you know what it looks like. I use future floor polish over top of my gems and anything I want to be really shiny to give it that extra shine.

And here is a full frontal view of what he looks like right now.

And a back view.

Ok, we still need to do the base. That being said, I am going to take a break from this guy and work up the rest of his unit. I will update this thread with a few different beard combo\'s in the meantime, so stay tuned for those.