Mousekiller Tutorial: Maruader

[mousekiller]

Well, since my first tutorial (the dwarf Slayer) was so much fun, I figured I would go ahead and do one for the marauders I am working on.

The specimen for this project will be:

Marauder with Flail Model
5th Edition Games Workshop Model
Sculpted by Dave Andrews

Chapter 1: Preparing the Model

1. First thing I did to prepare this model was to do a little conversion work. Simply put, he is a flail model who I needed to fit in with my unit that all has Two Handed weapons. The conversion was actually very simple, I took and cut a mace head from a plastic weapons sprue (I think the bit came from the plastic marauders set). Then I drilled a hole into it and glued it on the flail staff.

2. For the base, I decided that I wanted these guys to be based in a rocky, snowy environment as the idea behind them is sort of a Norse theme. So, I took some cork board and fit a piece to my liking to the base (using superglue to bond it to the base). Following that I used spackling paste to give the overall base and the cork an uneven looking surface.

3. After allowing this to dry for a day, I was finally ready to primer it. Using Games Workshop Black Spray Primer, I took him to the back yard and sprayed him down. I usually do my primering in three stages. The first, the model is standing up and I rotate him around until he is completely sprayed. After this dries, I turn him face down and spray again. After that dries I turn the model over again and spray a last time. This usually gives me pretty good coverage. Any left over spots can be painted with a thin layer of black paint.

 

[mousekiller]

Chapter 2: Skin

Not sure exactly why, but I typically start painting the skin first, especially on models that are primarily skin. My recipe is actually very simple and involves only 7 stages and 4 colors:

1. Dark Flesh: First picture above.
For this stage, I use a standard brush to apply a base coat of Dark Flesh.

2. Dark Flesh mixed with equal part of Tanned Flesh: Second picture above.
This stage is almost a second base coat, with the exception that I leave the really deep crevices and the areas touching other objects still showing. A good example is the area between the fingers.

3. Tanned Flesh: Third picture above.
This stage will put on the base color. This is really the color that I want to be conveyed when I am done, so I leave only the deep muscle crevices showing the previous color.

4. Tanned Flesh mixed with equal part of Dwarf Flesh: First picture above.
Now we simply begin layering the muscles. At this point I start leaving a little of the previous color showing at the base of the muscles.

5. Dwarf Flesh. Second picture above.
Continuing to layer. Also, only hitting the knuckles on the hands and at this stage I start to striate some of the muscles.

6. Dwarf Flesh mixed with equal part of Elf Flesh. Third picture above.
Continue layer up. This layer really makes those muscles shine, so don\'t go overboard with it. Try hitting the highest areas.

7. Elf Flesh. Picture above.
This is the final highlight, and really comes across nicely. Only hit the very tips of the muscles, knuckles, etc.

 

[mousekiller]

Chapter 3: Armour and Weapons

This part is really easy, probably the easiest for me of all. I think it is mostly because I don\'t bother with layering or anything like that when it comes to metallics (at least not when my aim is to have a partially untaken care of set of equipment).

First, you will need your metallic colors. In this case I am using the following (including Tin Bitz, which is not shown):

1. Tin Bitz, first picture above.
Apply a base coat of Tin Bitz to all the metal parts, it is OK if you leave a little black showing in some of the deeper recesses (like the chainmail).

2. Boltgun Metal, second picture above.
Drybrush this color over all the metal parts, leaving only a very small amount of the tin bitz showing through. This will give the metal a scorched appearance, which for me makes me think of used and not well taken care of armour.

3. Chainmail, third picture above.
Drybrush again. This time make sure to leave a bit of the boltgun metal showing, especially on the bigger areas (like the helmet), try only hitting the raised areas.

4. Mithril Silver, picture above.
The final metal color. For this one, hit the edges of the chainmail and the raised portions of metal only. Also, the very tips of the spikes on the weapon.

For the next steps, we will add some red to the armour. On some areas, this red will represent a leather inset to the armour, and other areas it will represent painted armour.

These are from Reaper Master Series Paints. The Inks are from Kel\'s, though I don\'t know where to get this stuff other than thewarstore.com. It is really great, and acts more like a wash then an ink, and also doesn\'t require much dilution.

 

[mousekiller]

1. Bloodstain Red, first picture above.
Apply this color as a base on the inside of the shoulder pad, on the scabbard, and on the interior portion of the mace head.

2. Kels Magic Black Sauce, second picture above.
Wash all the armour and weapon bitz (including the red pieces) with this wash.

3. Clotted Red, first picture above.
Add this color to the areas that you have painted with Bloodstain Red, leaving a little of the previous color showing. On the weapon, begin working your way up the weapon, leaving the lower portion darker. On the scabbard, leave the very center of the scabbard darker.

4. Kels Magic Black sauce mixed with equal part of Kels Magic Brown Sauce, second picture above.
Apply this wash over all the weapon and armour bits as before.

5. Carnage Red, first picture above.
Highlight your armoured areas. Also, work your way out on the scabbard, and up on the weapon.

6. Carnage Red mixed with eqaul part Rust Brown, second picture above.
Continue highlighting as before, starting to hit only the highest areas.

7. Rust Brown, first picture above.
This is the final highlight, so only hit the very tops of everything.

8. Kels Magic Brown Sauce, second picture above.
Give everything a wash just as before.