Ork fighta kitbash - UPDATE! 20/11/08
- Thread starter DaN
- Start date
ScottRadom
Shogun of Saskatchewan
It looks like a winner! My thoughts...
I\'d really like to see the landing gear raised. It looks TOO much like a WWII aircraft instead of an Orky fighta with them down, IMO
I think to add to the orkiness the plane should be posed at a bit of an angle, with a little bit of a \"swagger\" to it\'s flight.
Love it, nice work. The base looks great. Busy enough to look attractive but not to take away from the model.
I\'d really like to see the landing gear raised. It looks TOO much like a WWII aircraft instead of an Orky fighta with them down, IMO
I think to add to the orkiness the plane should be posed at a bit of an angle, with a little bit of a \"swagger\" to it\'s flight.
Love it, nice work. The base looks great. Busy enough to look attractive but not to take away from the model.
@Scott - ta.
Might not be able to tell by the angle of the photo, but the plane is actually on a banking turn (Well - not level anway)
I pondered about the gear too... I do have the bits there to cover them completely, but I decided I wanted them down to show the orky repair on the right strut there...
I may change my mind still...
Orky peeps - opinions on that please
Was quite pleased with the base, but the main thing with that was just ensuring it had enough weight (And in the right place) to hold the wire and plane in position.
The base consists of 4 CDs glued and gaffer-taped together, with a slot cut from the central ring of the middle 2 CDs to allow the bent wire to be held by both the lower and top CD.
More gaffer tape then ensured the wire was secure.
Weight was added by sliding metal nuts (As in nuts and bolts ) over the wire, and on the back of the CD, which acted to counter-balance the wire and plane.
The nuts were superglued into position and then covered with more gaffer tape to provide \"natural undulations\" to the ground.
Once the glue was dry and everything was ready, more gaffer tape went over everything to try and smooth surfaces and covers gaps.
I then fitted a stiff card collar around the circumference of the stacked CDs - which was to hold a thick consistency of my favourite scenery medium (sg I\'m looking at you)
This was spooned over the entire surface and smoothed in places and allowed to dry completely. On removing the collar, there were some gaps and cracks, which I smoothed with milliput.
Once that entire base was covered and in one piece I then went over the whole top surface and any gaps I could find with a thick layer of PVA glue so that paint would adhere well. Then once dry it was able to accept another layer for the sand flocking and priming.
Might not be able to tell by the angle of the photo, but the plane is actually on a banking turn (Well - not level anway)
I pondered about the gear too... I do have the bits there to cover them completely, but I decided I wanted them down to show the orky repair on the right strut there...
I may change my mind still...
Orky peeps - opinions on that please
Was quite pleased with the base, but the main thing with that was just ensuring it had enough weight (And in the right place) to hold the wire and plane in position.
The base consists of 4 CDs glued and gaffer-taped together, with a slot cut from the central ring of the middle 2 CDs to allow the bent wire to be held by both the lower and top CD.
More gaffer tape then ensured the wire was secure.
Weight was added by sliding metal nuts (As in nuts and bolts
) over the wire, and on the back of the CD, which acted to counter-balance the wire and plane.The nuts were superglued into position and then covered with more gaffer tape to provide \"natural undulations\" to the ground.
Once the glue was dry and everything was ready, more gaffer tape went over everything to try and smooth surfaces and covers gaps.
I then fitted a stiff card collar around the circumference of the stacked CDs - which was to hold a thick consistency of my favourite scenery medium (sg I\'m looking at you
)This was spooned over the entire surface and smoothed in places and allowed to dry completely. On removing the collar, there were some gaps and cracks, which I smoothed with milliput.
Once that entire base was covered and in one piece I then went over the whole top surface and any gaps I could find with a thick layer of PVA glue so that paint would adhere well. Then once dry it was able to accept another layer for the sand flocking and priming.
ScottRadom
Shogun of Saskatchewan
I know what it is about the wheels that looks out of place to me!
The SCALE! They look to0 1/48th scale, and not GW Orcy scale enough! Haha!
I\'m just happy to be able to articulate what I originally felt was \"Off\" from the piece. If you\'re out to make me, and me only happy (\'course you are!) then I might reccomend Orkin\' those bad boys up. Maybe steal some oversize wheels from a truck or somethin\'. Maybe even put some patches on one, or both. Maybe even two different sized wheels? They just look too perfectly proportioned to fit in with the excellent work you\'ve done on the rest of the model.
Again, just my tastes here. Top notch work, just like your Abrams Tank.
The SCALE! They look to0 1/48th scale, and not GW Orcy scale enough! Haha!
I\'m just happy to be able to articulate what I originally felt was \"Off\" from the piece. If you\'re out to make me, and me only happy (\'course you are!) then I might reccomend Orkin\' those bad boys up. Maybe steal some oversize wheels from a truck or somethin\'. Maybe even put some patches on one, or both. Maybe even two different sized wheels? They just look too perfectly proportioned to fit in with the excellent work you\'ve done on the rest of the model.
Again, just my tastes here. Top notch work, just like your Abrams Tank.
