Reaper Paints and Airbrushing question

[Taun2305]

Hello All,

I am about to order my HP-C Plus airbrush, an I have seen alot of people talk about using VGC paints with it, but nothing about reaper paints. I have all reaper color right now and I would like to know if anyone has experence using them airbrushing. If so what it anything are you adding to the paint for Airbrishing, Think I saw 1 post where some one said they added a drop of windex.

 

[airhead]

You can reduce any paint for airbrushing, just takes a bit of trial and error.

I'd start with 1 part paint to 3-4 parts reducer (water with a bit of flow aid and/or binder)

I'm not a fan of windex in the mix. The ammonia may react with something in the paint.

I have heard of windex to clean out your gun at the end, but I use soap & water.

 

[AllTerrainMonkey]

I've used MSP's through an airbrush quite a bit, both with the brush-on primer and regular paint. When I did it I used Windex and didn't have any problems with it, though others report plain water is just fine. If I remember right I went 1:1 paint/windex, or even 1:2 (it was a couple years back). Airhead's advice of adding in flow aid and/or binder can help, though (as with all things painting) try it with just water first and use additives when needed. I'd definitely use scrap minis/sprues/unwanted figures to test things on first .

 

[Kanli]

I use the same airbrush as well as Reaper MSP. I thin with water and sometimes Golden Airbrush medium. About 1 part paint, 1 part water/medium. Works great!

 

[Joona]

I've used Vallejo, P3, Tamiya and Citadel paints with an airbrush. So far everything has worked fine, though there are some paints (VMC Burnt Cadmium) that have a pigment size so large that it tends to clog the nozzle. This can somewhat be compensated by adding pressure. I use Vallejo thinner as it has binder in it. With just plain water I've sometimes had problems if you have to add a lot to get a proper flow out of the nozzle.

Most of the time I try to use VMC Airbrush colours. Everything I've tried so far has worked really well. Reaper should be fine too though...

 

[Jhardin]

Tacking on my two cents to an older thread...
I shoot reaper master series paints through two iwata brushes good results; an eclipse hp-bcs (.5mm needle) for priming (i prime with vallejo surface primers) and basecoating, and an hp-b+ for shading (.2mm needle), mostly just highlights on shoulder pads, jump packs, and some zenithal highlights from above the model. I've been thinning with creatix wicked w100 reducer. Thinned correctly almost everything shoots okay, even the reaper metallics. The reaper metallics seem to have finer grain mica and arent as shiny as I prefer (even if I always dull back down with washes!). I have a heck of a time shooting citadel metallics through the .2mm nozzle (clogs after 3-4 sprays), dont like the model air metallics (had a bad experience with the silver, can't get paint to adhere over it) and dont like the gold color, and have settled on vallejo game color metallics thinned roughly 1:1 with the w100. I reduce in a plastic pallet untill the paint has the consistency of skim milk, stir WELL with a q-tip sans cotton, and use a disposable pipette to move the thinned paint into the pot. you can see some of my stuff at http://30-mm-madness.com (although I have a lot of new stuff that I need to photograph and post)