Scuplting question...

[supervike]

I've noticed when trying to sculpt, that my 3-d shapes keep regressing backwards.

I'll use a very simplified explanation for what is happening.


Lets say I want to sculpt a snake. I roll out a nice cylinder shaped tube. I place it down on a base or something, then shape it.

Now, I begin to work on the 'smoothness' part. As I smooth, I notice that I am squishing the putty slightly, flattening it. By the time I'm done, the roundness of the snake is almost gone.

I'm using both clay shapers (extra firm) and a metal sculpting tool. To be honest, I'm not sure if the clay shapers really do anything....as even 'extra firm' seems flimsy to me.

Any suggestions?

 

[Donga]

Using your snake as an example, do it in stages.

1. sculpt a very skinny snake in the position you want it it be in. Round.

2. Let it cure.

3. put another thin layer of GS/MS/whatever onit and sculpt the detail.

Don't do too much in one go, you'll never get it to work!

 

[freakinacage]

aye do what donga says. bits at a time also bear inmind oyu can texture and leave to cure for a tad then re-shape

 

[Ritual]

What the chaps above said... Oh, and clay shapers are excellent tools, but they definitely work best for smoothing when you have a bit of resistance. Either on partially cured putty or on thin layers of putty on top of metal or fully cured putty.

 

[demonherald]

wha putty you using ?? If it's greenstuff alone then the loss of shape can be down to the natural memory it has..

I prefer a mix o 50/50 green stuff / milliput .. kills of the geenstuffs memory also dries like a plastic with no bendiness....

I layer like the guys say do a rough shape dry then build up detail... but my final smoothing is just done with a brush and water .. this puts less pressure on the sculpt detail so less chance of squishing and the milliput elment of the putty mix means it milks slightly filling in minor lumps and bumps ...

 

[Einion]

Yep, definitely stages. Getting that first stage consistent can take a bit of work but if you know you'll be covering everything with a fresh layer of putty it becomes easier to just accept a rough or irregular surface underneath.

When it comes to something like a snake shape, you do have to keep an eye on the roundness - it is very easy to flatter something like this out - and reform it as necessary by poking and prodding as you go.

To be honest, I'm not sure if the clay shapers really do anything....as even 'extra firm' seems flimsy to me.

They should - I use the grey Colour Shapers and they're firm enough. They might be considered most useful for adding detail when the putty is soft, but they can be used quite effectively for smoothing putty that has cured more.

And sometimes a soft tool impresses the putty in a way that just works better (or at least more easily if you're a little heavy-handed) than something unyielding like wood or metal; it's just about using the tools to do stuff and getting a feel for how it works in your hands.

Einion

 

[supervike]

Thanks guys!

I am using Pro-create right now, but I do have some milliput as well...I'll bet that would help with my 'smoothness' factor.

I think my issue is definitely trying to sculpt too much at a time...I'll build up in layers.

 

[Shawn R. L.]

Ditto doing an 'under sculpt.' If you are doing something to be cast in pewter there may be some sticking issues with using Pro Create. Armorcast has said they have been having some problems with it and other manufacturers they have spoken to have said the same. Painting the final sculpt with what's called layout ink solves that problem though.

 

[Müller]

wha putty you using ?? If it's greenstuff alone then the loss of shape can be down to the natural memory it has..

I prefer a mix o 50/50 green stuff / milliput .. kills of the geenstuffs memory also dries like a plastic with no bendiness....

I layer like the guys say do a rough shape dry then build up detail... but my final smoothing is just done with a brush and water .. this puts less pressure on the sculpt detail so less chance of squishing and the milliput elment of the putty mix means it milks slightly filling in minor lumps and bumps ...

Which miliput do you use for this?
I'm just getting started with miliput and bought the grey/yellow labeled one, would that work mixed with GS?

 

[freakinacage]

should do. i use the superfine white but that just out of choice

 

[cleen X]

Anybody know of a good online store where you can buy all types of milliput? Really want to try out this stuff!

 

[freakinacage]

Anybody know of a good online store where you can buy all types of milliput? Really want to try out this stuff!

i wouldn't bother tbh, just buy one pack, the rest are similar. i would say go for superfine white (the others are the same just a bit grainier). on pack will last you aaaaaages anyway

 

[Einion]

Which miliput do you use for this?
I'm just getting started with miliput and bought the grey/yellow labeled one, would that work mixed with GS?

Quite honestly, the reason to blend Milliput with GS is to get to a better working consistency than either of them have alone - which something else might provide straight away. Milliput + GS isn't a hundred miles away from the properties of MagicSculp but MS is easier (and a lot faster!) to mix and costs less, a lot less in fact if you buy in bulk. And MS has an unlimited shelf life, unlike Milliput which is notorious for ageing badly.

You already have this so I realise I'm not talking you out of a purchase but thought you should know for future reference.

Anybody know of a good online store where you can buy all types of milliput? Really want to try out this stuff!

If you really want to, Sylmasta.

What else do you already have out of curiosity?

Einion