Savanttheory's WIP

Savanttheory

Savanttheory

New member
I have lifted paint off before by being to quick to move onto the next step I really think the issue right now is the layers are just much thinner than I am used to and delicate. The primer underneath isn't coming off just the overlying basecoat and highlights. The baby blue is the notorious trouble make right now and the midtone section of the rear left bit of cloth. I've since changed up the positioning on my cork so that should help, again I just have STOP TOUCHING THE MINI ;)

I really do love painting in purples perhaps too often on different minis. I think the mid tone on the front of the breastplate needs some smoothing out in terms of blending there is also a trouble spot on the rear in the depth of the shadow. It looks almost glossy. I'm hoping the matte seal later will fix this but i know i've avoided rubbing it so it shouldn't be that shiny. I'm unsure what causes this though.
 
M

Mr.S.Marbo

New member
Savanttheory said:
I think the mid tone on the front of the breastplate needs some smoothing out in terms of blending there is also a trouble spot on the rear in the depth of the shadow. It looks almost glossy. I'm hoping the matte seal later will fix this but i know i've avoided rubbing it so it shouldn't be that shiny. I'm unsure what causes this though.
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I can't see any gloss in your last pictures. Some glazes and washes tend to do that sometime, have you used those? If so a matt varnish will fix it.
 
kathrynloch

kathrynloch

New member
If you get a free account over at photobucket, you can do thumbnails with that. Plus, editing so you can rotate the image that way I don't have to stand on my head. lol!

More in a bit.

Okay editing to add - you have some bright purple! He's definitely looking very nice!

I'm not sure if your camera is washing out a lot of your shading and highlights, but you might consider putting a really deep bluish purple in the deepest of recesses. I think that will really make him pop for you.

If you're getting lifting as you said earlier, it can be as the others have said. Another possibility is the friction of the brush over the thinned paint. If you keep going over the same area numerous times, the thinned paint can't stand up to the brush as well as it can slightly thicker (too thick and you'll still have trouble). Make sure you're going over an area only once or twice. Allow to dry completely and if you need to go over it again, use the same routine except try adding one more pass. As you get more comfortable with it, you'll figure out how many times you can go over an area without lifting.

Keep up the great work!
 
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Savanttheory

Savanttheory

New member
Yeah I think that shield is going to get some deeper shade in the recesses. I've got a new bulb over my work area and that may be playing with the picture some but the details on the shield's crest do need to stand out more. Working with the thinner paints has definitely been a learning experience but a very positive one. The color transitions seem to be easier with layering as I'm not comfortable yet with wet blending. Don't think I'll have go back to using paint straight from the bottle again. Next I think I'd like to challenge myself with some NMM. Just looking at some of the Rackham show pieces I'm in love with that style.

This will also be the last mini done with my synthetic Imex brush. Just picked up a few W&N's the other day and I'm real excited to work with them.

Thanks again to everyone and their suggestions. The progress I've had so far wouldn't be possible without you.
 
kathrynloch

kathrynloch

New member
If you decide you want to try wet-blending with retarder, let me know, I'll be happy to help with that.

Don't be afraid to experiment with various "thicknesses" of paint, the differences give you different effects. I personally like to get the cheapie paint pots from an art supply store and I use those to mix up my colors and water/retarder then paint directly from them.

I think you'll find a big difference using the sable brushes. If W&N doesn't work for you, don't be afraid to try other brands of good quality brushes. Many aren't that expensive and have fantastic quality. But just like finding a good pair of shoes, you've got to try different ones on to find what works for you. Plus, you're still developing your own technique so you'll see growth and change just with that.
 
Savanttheory

Savanttheory

New member
kathrynloch said:
If you decide you want to try wet-blending with retarder, let me know, I'll be happy to help with that.

Don't be afraid to experiment with various "thicknesses" of paint, the differences give you different effects. I personally like to get the cheapie paint pots from an art supply store and I use those to mix up my colors and water/retarder then paint directly from them.

I think you'll find a big difference using the sable brushes. If W&N doesn't work for you, don't be afraid to try other brands of good quality brushes. Many aren't that expensive and have fantastic quality. But just like finding a good pair of shoes, you've got to try different ones on to find what works for you. Plus, you're still developing your own technique so you'll see growth and change just with that.
Click to expand...

I think I'll have to take you up on that offer, thanks Kathryn.
 
Savanttheory

Savanttheory

New member
Alright so started playing around with my series 7 brushes tonight and right off the bat I have to admit I am surprised how well these brushes hold their point. Really not much to it as I go along they just seem to 'snap' back. Beyond my regular routine of cleaning and master's soap is there any special care I should use with these to extend their life?
 
kathrynloch

kathrynloch

New member
Good quality brushes are an investment. Take care of them and they should last you for years. Here are my top ten - basics that most probably already know but are always worth repeating.
  1. Always pull with your brush, never push paint onto a mini or in to tight places. Pushing separates the bristles and pushes paint into the ferrule. If you must push the paint to get it into a tight spot, save that for an old thrashed brush.
  2. Use select brushes for select jobs. You don't want to base coat your mini with your finest pointed detail brush, or apply washes, or anything that doesn't involve the job that it's supposed to do, paint the fine detail.
  3. Don't allow paint to get into the ferrule and most certainly don't let it dry there. That's when they fuzz out like cat's tails. ffffttttt!!!! If you accidentally get too much paint and it gets into the ferrule, wash it out immediately and try again.
  4. Keep your paint water clean and remove all the paint from your brush each time you rinse (this can be tough to remember and sometimes the paint seems like it will never come out.)
  5. Never allow your brush to sit point down in your paint water - that will thrash them faster than anything.
  6. Always wash your brush with soap and water when you finish your painting session. This is the only time you want to separate the bristles to get at any and all paint.
  7. Wash the brush until the water runs clear then leave a tiny, tiny amount of soap on and I mean TINY amount then reshape the tip back to a point with your fingers. Allow to dry and they are ready to go again.
  8. Eventually they do start to lose their point but that's not the end of their life. Old faithful can be relegated to different jobs as I said before, washes, base coating, things you don't want to subject your good brushes too but the old one that's finally gone long in the tooth and ragged in the bristles can still accomplish a lot.
  9. If you do get a single mutant hair that sticks out at an odd angle and won't behave - don't pull it! That can disturb the glue holding the bristles all around it. Take a very sharp pointed scissors (I use embroidery scissors) and snip it off. Be careful not to cut or separate any other bristles. But if you're careful you should be able to trim it without a problem and you're good to go again.
  10. Always store brushes upright or in a way that the tips are not in contact with anything. Storing it on its side on your table is the fastest way to get a bent tip - I have a heck of a time following this one. I'm always laying my brushes on the table and they hit the paint pots and bend. grrrr! The next thing you know they won't go straight.
So that's basically my top 10 for brush care. I'm sure other folks have stuff to add and I imagine a quick search through the forums will reveal some good posts on the subject. :)

Congrats on your brand new brushes!
 
QuietiManes

QuietiManes

New member
"Always wash your brush with soap and water when you finish your painting session. This is the only time you want to separate the bristles to get at any and all paint.
Wash the brush until the water runs clear then leave a tiny, tiny amount of soap on and I mean TINY amount then reshape the tip back to a point with your fingers. Allow to dry and they are ready to go again."

Soap is really damaging...as well as the physical process of working up a lather and rinsing it out, etc. Sable is hair so think of it like hair, you know, how most girls with long hair don't wash their hair every day? Same sort of deal. Your brushes might be healthier if you just rinse like a maniac and only wash once in a while. Soon as the paint works its way to the halfway point up the bristles, rinse it out. And of course there are quite a few threads on brush care that explain the whys and hows if better info and other opinions interest you.

Differences in a quality brush are lovely though, aren't they? Paint flow, control and coverage...the fine tip...more paint held in the bristles...yadda yadda...
 
kathrynloch

kathrynloch

New member
lol! Quieti - girls with long hair may not have been the best example to use since I am one. ;) I have to wash mine everyday or YUK! But that's why they invented conditioner. Granted, my mistake in failing to mention that part. They have conditioner for brushes just like for hair. But if it was half as bad as that, girls with long hair wouldn't have any at all and all of my brushes would be bald too but again, they've lasted years.

But to each his own - no worries. I just got a kick out of your example. :D
 
Savanttheory

Savanttheory

New member
kathrynloch

kathrynloch

New member
Black is just plain tough. What are you doing with the glazes?

Maybe if you tilt the little dude so we can better see the black armor. The way he's hunched over, the light's not hitting there. I like the cloak...I'm working with purple right now and it's giving me fits.
 
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