Freestanding Doors

N

Niranth

New member
It is a bit difficult to judge the size, even though there was a comparison shot. This first construction took about 10 minutes and was not meant to be "pretty".

View attachment 13222 View attachment 13223

Using 28MM from head to toe, I estimated the door should be 6/10 of an inch wide and 1 1/2 tall. This is an inch wide and 1 1/2 tall. Each joint is reinforced with a bit of floral wire and that also makes the hinge.

I will try a taller door (1 3/4) and I think I will use Popular for the base. The Balsa wood is not sturdy enough.

Any comments or suggestions are welcome.
 
N

Niranth

New member
Skittlebrau said:
Comment: Awesome!

Suggestion: Make me a set!
Click to expand...
Thank you! We'll see how much effort it is to make 'em right. I expect to do some sanding and filling with Magic Sculpt no matter how careful I am, so it may be best to not be too careful.

I was thinking of just using grey primer before adding the knobs, think that would look OK?
 
Skittlebrau

Skittlebrau

New member
If you got some Minwax Polyshade to try a dip method on your minis....you could use it on these awesome wood doors as well!

I was just going to use some LEGO doors, or run something off on the 3D printer, but these are boss!
 
KingZombie

KingZombie

New member
Skittlebrau said:
If you got some Minwax Polyshade to try a dip method on your minis....you could use it on these awesome wood doors as well!

I was just going to use some LEGO doors, or run something off on the 3D printer, but these are boss!
Click to expand...

Wait... you have a 3d printer? What would the 3D door cost of something like that be?
 
Skittlebrau

Skittlebrau

New member
I have no idea. I'd have to design it first and get it programmed and whatnot... I'm not a super duper programmer, it's just a hobby I have started to fiddle with, not something I can whip out in a few minutes or anything.
 
JokerOx

JokerOx

New member
Freestanding balsa doors are always a little tricky to keep upright in games, I'd definitely look at a heavier base.

As for colour scheme watch washes as the balsa will soak it up if too watery perhaps the suggested Polyshade might be better - certainly for the door. If you want a plank effect you could lightly score the door as well.

Depending on the doors location - shop / apartment block / fire door you could really go to town and have different types of doors i.e. sheet the blasa door with card for a steel/solid timber fir door, framed glass door for shop (using as an example the clear plastic from miniature blisters or some suitable household product).

Have fun and post some more pics as you go.
 
KingZombie

KingZombie

New member
Skittlebrau said:
http://www.litko.net/products/Medium-Door-Markers.html

I have some of these for D&D (As well as WAY too many other things from Litko....)

I bet they would do some modern doors up, they are awesome at custom work. I was already planning on hitting them up for some nice custom
neon green noise markers...
Click to expand...

I emailed them about Zombicide's success and suggested they look into talking to Guillotine Games about doing some tokens.
 
N

Niranth

New member
Skittlebrau said:
I was already planning on hitting them up for some nice custom neon green noise markers...
Click to expand...
You may want to get that order in soon, I ordered from them last year in early July and I received the items in September. ( I had hoped to have the stuff for Gen Con.) They are very nice people, but they were badly short-handed.

I doubt I will use stain for the frames as the end grain would be too obvious. I had thought about using alternating sized blocks for another type of door frame to simulate part of a cinder block wall. For the glass doors, I was going to use two pieces of plasticard sandwiching the aforementioned blister pak.
 
Misellus

Misellus

New member
For those with a 3d printer available, I went ahead and made up a set of doors (open and closed) in openSCAD, as well as the parts to make a poseable door. They are slightly larger than 28mm scale but should be fine. I priced them through Ponoko and they want $12-$16 per set of open/closed doors (plus shipping) depending on plastic type used.

Available on Thingiverse at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23304
View attachment 13246
Misellus
 
PegaZus

PegaZus

Stealth Freak
I'll have to look into both the CAD software and the website you posted, Misellus. So thanks! Been looking for a nice CAD for using at home to avoid any conflicts at work, but haven't had much luck. Hadn't heard of that one. And then my work may benefit from the uploaded models website. There's another nice download website that I use at work for CAD components but don't have the bookmark with me. I'll post it as an edit after I get to work this morning. You may know about it already, but there is always somebody who doesn't.

EDIT: the website I was thinking of is www.3dcontentcentral.com and is mostly components. Another source at least.

EDIT2: Well, openSCAD doesn't look to be what I was hoping. You might take a look at Creo Elements. It's a free CAD system, and while I hate the product compared to Catia, so far it's the what I have found works best for me that's free.
 
Last edited:
Skittlebrau

Skittlebrau

New member
Have you looked at Google Sketchup? Also free, and works pretty darn well.

I use Solidworks and AutoCAD in the office, and honestly, I think I prefer Sketchup sometimes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back To Top
Top