She's looking good!
I just can't bring myself to wake up early in the morning to paint!

If I'm off work I'll sleep all day!
Thanks William! lol! Same here - but once I figured out what a difference it made, I looked forward to getting up early. It's amazing hell didn't freeze over and pigs didn't grow wings on that day!
Hi Kath,
I meant darker. But larger probably wouldn't hurt either. Remember there's shadows cast by the location of the part (facing away from the light source) and "shadows" that are darker objects reflecting in the surface. I find for my style the more of the second lot I can get in the more like metal the surface starts to look.
Okay, thanks Stew!
Kath What colour are you using for the "Gold NMM"?
Because to me it isn't working, it's looking too much of a dull brown and not enough yellow.
Although I use Vallejo Yellow Ochre Or Gold Brown as my base, I still refer to third finger left hand for the effect I want to achieve.
Much as I hate to point it out Gold don't go black in shadow more Burnt Umber brown.
No worries Mike! I'm using the same "color formula" we used in Michael Genet's NMM class at ReaperCon. All of these are Reaper paints. Walnut Brown, Muddy Brown, Chestnut Brown (and/or a mix of Muddy and Chestnut), Orange Brown, Palomino Gold and top highlights are going to be Buckskin Pale and maybe, maybe a touch of white or Linen White.
Now, as I work my way up through the colors, I'll hit Palomino Gold and it's seriously yellow. I don't like that color at all because I can see some green undertone. So I back up to Orange Brown which knocks that green tint right down then go back and hit it with Palomino Gold again.
I'm not using black, although it may look like it. You might being seeing where I had to adjust the contrast in the photo. If my photos are a little dark and I lighten them, it washes out the color. A quick click on one of the Contrast Adj buttons puts it right back (faster than jacking with the Saturation) - so maybe that's the problem?