Sproket's WIP

Sproket

Sproket

New member
I've worked on Chee-Chee's head to improve the contrast and definition. I've also painted up the bionic eye and skull implants so the head is pretty much all done pending any final tweaks.

I want the mechanical implants to have a hotchpotch and haphazard feel as if they've been added over a number of years. This is going to give me the opportunity indulge my current fetish for NMM & paint a wide variety of finishes in order to create the look I want. Sounds like fun to me!

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AndyG

AndyG

Active member
looking great I particularly like the copper tubing. But the minimalist contrast on the gold roman numeral dial is superb how you manage to get excellent NMM with such a restricted range of contrast is great, considering that the surface is almost flat so would indeed give a low level of contrast anyway adds to the realism. :good:
 
Sproket

Sproket

New member
I've already had a lot of fun painting different NMM effects on Chee-Chee now the big mecha arm is giving me the opportunity to push things further and experiment with painting some damaged and distressed surfaces. With the exception of a bit of verdigris it's the first time I've attempted anything like this as I've been very focused on getting a clean smooth finish on all my recent projects. So far so good and it feels like the paint job is beginning to come together as a whole.

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boubi

boubi

New member
Simply great... mmhhhh, so much to get inspired and try by myself. The face is excellent, but the mech arm is simply "parfait" you have so many different shapes and different NMM type that just the arm is a top notch NMM lesson to anybody wanting to learn it. Thanks for sharing...
 
AndyG

AndyG

Active member
The chipped worn rusted shoulder section right next to the senmm screw perfect mate beautifully shows off each bit. More more more I think is the only proper response!
 
Sproket

Sproket

New member
Yes the gun barell, I know! I've been puttin off sorting it out & should have known that it would get spotted. My main issue with is is that I can't decide what to do with the bit sticking out at the end of the barrel. There's no way those bullets could get down it but it's not a bit of sprue as it's on the concept sketch where it looks a bit chunkier.

Overall November was a bit of a dud month for mini painting on account of the Dr Who 50th & a bout of flu but I've finally got something more to show for my efforts. It's nothing too dramatic but I'm beginning to get a feel for the overall look of the mini & I've started to work on the plynth.

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AndyG

AndyG

Active member
Bite the bullet and drill the barrel out I think is the one. The base is spot on, it suits the whole steam punk thing. Loving it.
 
Zab

Zab

New member
Agreed, drill the barrel - otherwise the whole thing is just ruined:sarcastic:

OMG, it's so awesome!:claply:
 
Elly3438

Elly3438

Member
Very very cool work on the copper! Care to share which colors / techniques used to get the metal finish? Looks really sharp!
 
wargamesculptor

wargamesculptor

New member
An alternative to drilling the barrel could be to shape it as a bullet coming out the barrel.
What colours have you used for the fur ?
 
Sproket

Sproket

New member
Elly3438 said:
Very very cool work on the copper! Care to share which colors / techniques used to get the metal finish? Looks really sharp!
Click to expand...

Here are the colours I’ve used for the NMM on CHee-Chee.

All of my NMM is highlighted with ivory. Keep white to an absolute minimum and use it only for the smallest & most extreme highlights to give your NMM a glint.

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Copper
Base colour: Mournfang Brown/Ratskin Flesh mix
Shade: Rhinox Hide
Mid tone: Ratskin Flesh
Highlight: Valejo Ivory

The key colour for the copper is Ratskin Flesh. I like my copper to have a pinkish tinge to it and Ratskin Flesh gives me exactly what I’m looking for.

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Gold/Brass
Base colour: Mournfang Brown/Iyanden Darksun mix
Shade: Rhinox Hide
Mid tone: Iyanden Darksun
Highlight: Valejo Ivory

For the mid tones pick a muted yellow ochre and avoid too bright a golden yellow colour. I get a more pleasing (to me) result in all my NMM if I keep to a muted palette and steer clear of bright colours in the mix.

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Bronze
Base colour: Mournfang Brown
Shade: Rhinox Hide
Mid tone: Iyanden Darksun
Highlight: Valejo Ivory

This uses the same colours as the gold but mixed to create a muted & darker effect. The mid tones use a lot more Mournfang Brown in proportion to the Iyanden Darksun. I wanted my bronze to have a dark patina so I restrict the brighter areas to where the metal would be polished by wear & tear.

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Iron/dark steel
I’ve used a conventional mix of cool greys but the addition of a little Thunderhawk Blue really gives the colour a lift.

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Verdigris
The idea is to create a stained look with tidemarks left behind as the paint dries. The exact opposite of what you would normally do when applying a wash!
I’ve used a dilute mix of Ivory and Hawk Turquoise applied as a wash and allowed to pool where you want the verdigris. As the wash begins to dry dab in a little more of the un-mixed but diluted ivory & turquoise. The colours will run into each other and partly blend as they dry. Once dry repeat until you like the look of it.
 
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Zab

Zab

New member
I love how you achieved different metals with a very similar palette across them all. Thanks for these breakdowns!
 
Bailey03

Bailey03

Well-known member
Excellent information, very helpful. I will definitely be saving all of this for future reference. Now I just need to pick a figure to try it out on...
 
Elly3438

Elly3438

Member
Very awesome - thanks so much for taking the time to break those down :) I also like how the metals all share similar colors as that will keep a coherent feel to the model
 
Sproket

Sproket

New member
I need to catch up with my work in progress! I've spent a bit of time on the base over Christmas and although that means I haven't done as much painting as I'd like I've managed to firm up my ideas on the overall composition & detail.

I've decided to sculpt the road and pavement/kerb out of polymer clay.

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For anyone who's interested there's a more detailed account of the process on my blog.
 
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