BloodFather's Unique Painting Tips

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

It struck me recently that the internet is stuffed full of miniature painting tips. There are dozens of web sites with hundreds of threads, WIPs, articles, and how-to's. While these are great, and they are mostly responsible
for everything I know about the hobby, they are all mostly saying the same things. Dilute your paint, unload your brush, use Kolinsky sable, wash it, prime it, etc. Eventually, the information sort of plateaued for me. After I read about the basics, I began to look into step-by-steps for creative inspiration and useful painting recipes. Here you learn how to paint wood grain or that dark elf skin can be shaded with purple. But even here the prospects for really learning something meaningful has gradually slowed for me.

I am in no way implying that I know everything about painting. There is still much for me to learn. It's just that the new ideas aren't flooding in like they used to. Instead of learning twenty good things a day, I am learning 1-2. This is normal of course for all skill sets.

I am also in no way implying that I am a great artist. I am an incredibly average artist that has researched a lot! This is responsible for my quick improvements. My knowledge outweighs my skill. I hope to tighten up this disparity one day with practice.

So to the point. I would like to provide a painting tip, around once a day, that I have found to be very helpful and that you just don't see or hear much. Those rare nuggets of info that pushed me to become a better painter, yet that some intermediate painters have never considered. If anything, this should help out the beginners out there. At best I can help push a veteran painter to levels he or she never considered.

Feel free to comment on these tips. Tell me if they are helpful to you. Add to them, disagree with them. But please, don't introduce your own tips that are off topic with the advice I have uploaded. After all, this is BloodFather's Unique Painting Tips...

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

BloodFather's Unique Painting Tip #1

Starting off, this is a useful tip that you may or may not do when you paint. Maybe you do it most of the time, but you just don't consciously think about doing it. And maybe when you don't do it, it is responsible for your lousy painting.

Paint gently. That's right. Paint softly. Delicately touch the brush to mini. There is no need to apply a lot of pressure. This results in clumsy strokes and uneven application. You may not feel like your are neglecting this, but you could be. Each brush stroke should be like a gentle kiss. This is even more true when applying a difficult transition, like when you are applying a black wash to shade a red mid tone.

This one may seem obvious, but consciously apply this tip and see if your painting improves.

 

[oistene]

I give this incentive a big thumbs up!

 

[Gandalf the Grey]

I'm looking forward to this thread developing. Just that simple start is something I've never thought of.
my thanks for starting a thread like this, I have never seen one and I will be watching this intently.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

Thanks fellas for the support. Makes me feel like this could be of use.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

BloodFather's Unique Painting Tip #2

Nothing can be harder than painting a straight, thin line. It takes precision and craftiness. You must be completely stable. Don't even think about breathing. Placing that white line down the center of a sword, for instance, can be a nerve wracking experience. Especially after spending an hour making sure it is perfectly blended. The same holds true for tiny glare points, or just free handing in general. Sometimes I wish I had a magic eraser for all those times I mess up or slip with the brush.

I am going to tell you how to do just that: Create a magic paint eraser for fixing painting mistakes. I use it mostly for the mistakes I described above, but theoretically almost any error could be fixed if you get to it in time.

Take a toothpick, or even a wooden match stick. Chew on the end of it, making sure it is nice and moist and forms some sharp angles. Now, gently rub it over the offending blemish. Be careful. Rub too hard and you will take away too many layers. Do it correctly and the line or spot you just messed up will disappear, leaving behind the previous paint layers as if you never made the mistake. Just make sure you get to the paint quickly, because if you let it dry too much the magic eraser will not function properly. Give it a try next time you are free handing or spot highlighting. An invaluable tool.

AndyG was the source for this tip. Thank you to NMM Andy.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

BloodFather's Unique Painting Tip #3

Whites, and many other light colored acrylics, are known to produce a chalky finish at times. The pigment does something sciencey which results in a dried, pasty mess (no idea why, really). This is especially annoying when trying to put down a nice and smooth skin tone, as skin looks especially bad when it is chalky and overworked. What's worse is that white is used for most highlights on a mini. Unless you are painting a themed Army, white (or light) is probably used as much or more than any other color. So what can we do about it?

Some people say to go easy on the dilution ratios. But why rely on a solution that requires you to sacrifice a nice and thin glaze layer? Instead, use VMC Ivory to avoid chalkiness. This is a warm, slightly off-white that refuses to chalk up your highlights. This is your white. There may be others like it, but I've never tried them. Dilute it like any other paint. Even mix it with other light colors, like skin, to neutralize the chalkiness inherent in their own pigments.

 

[Dragonsreach]

BoK, this is a good idea taking the things you've discovered and cataloging them as you go.
Experience is a wonderful teacher, and passing on what we learn is a generous thing.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

BoK, this is a good idea taking the things you've discovered and cataloging them as you go.
Experience is a wonderful teacher, and passing on what we learn is a generous thing.

And thank you, DR. I confess Tip #3, VMC Ivory, I discovered from an old thread from 10Ball, where he cites you for this handy piece of painting knowledge. Must give credit where credit is due...

 

[Gandalf the Grey]

Brilliant tip on the ivory. I constantly battle with white highlights and I was praying for a tip. Can you mix it with white for a lighter tone ?

 

[MAXXxxx]

Brilliant tip on the ivory. I constantly battle with white highlights and I was praying for a tip. Can you mix it with white for a lighter tone ?

no, it is forbidden to do that

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

You sure can, but for the most part you can still use it as a standalone white. It's not off white enough to tell, unless it's right next to some pure white. But I suppose if you mixed the two the Ivory could over power the pure white chalkiness, sure...

 

[Webmonkey]

Nothing can be harder than painting a straight, thin line. It takes precision and craftiness. You must be completely stable. Don't even think about breathing. Placing that white line down the center of a sword, for instance, can be a nerve wracking experience. Especially after spending an hour making sure it is perfectly blended. The same holds true for tiny glare points, or just free handing in general. Sometimes I wish I had a magic eraser for all those times I mess up or slip with the brush.

I am going to tell you how to do just that: Create a magic paint eraser for fixing painting mistakes. I use it mostly for the mistakes I described above, but theoretically almost any error could be fixed if you get to it in time.

Take a toothpick, or even a wooden match stick. Chew on the end of it, making sure it is nice and moist and forms some sharp angles. Now, gently rub it over the offending blemish. Be careful. Rub too hard and you will take away too many layers. Do it correctly and the line or spot you just messed up will disappear, leaving behind the previous paint layers as if you never made the mistake. Just make sure you get to the paint quickly, because if you let it dry too much the magic eraser will not function properly. Give it a try next time you are free handing or spot highlighting. An invaluable tool.

AndyG was the source for this tip. Thank you to NMM Andy.

I would also like to add to this,... If you have hand shakes (or just have trouble making straight lines in general),.. try extending the pinky finger on your brush hand and touch the tip of it to the model as you paint. It greatly helps to steady your hand. And/or touch your wrists together as you paint. Your hands may still shake,.. but at least they'll shake in unison,..

 

[DaN]

Hah - this is a great little thread and you've got me thinking of that one little pro-tip that noone else has mentioned yet... Hmmm...
Something I discovered is that actually handing your figures can rub off some your painting - maybe it's just me with my clumsy sausage-fingers, but if your doing a delicate fade on your NMM and your knuckle smudges it as you turn the model around to do the other side, much frustration will result...

So I have found that attaching the base of the figure to an "extender" of some sort helps avoid this. With plastic miniatures it is easier of course due to the reduced weight. What I tend to use is actually a drinks cork from a bottle of wine... Then superglue a 2p to the bottom to weight and stabilise it so that it will stand on it's own when you put the mini down.

EDIT: Looks like Bloodfather already knows this tip
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29136&stc=1&d=1404528403

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

Indeed brother, I couldn't make it without those wine corks,as I am perpetually having to reapply highlights that rub off Lord knows how. Never thought of applying a coin on the bottom though to keep stable. Good advice.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

BloodFather's Unique Painting Tip #4

There are a variety of tried and true ways to take photos of your miniature art. The important thing in all of them is to eliminate shadows and avoid garish highlights. Many painters accomplish this with multiple lights, filters, natural light bulbs from three different angles, a light box , etc. While these are great methods that are actually fairly cheap and simple, I tend to go for even cheaper and simpler.

Take your gallery photos outdoors. What better natural light exists? Now, this can be just as easy to mess up as shooting indoors, so keep a couple things in mind. Placing your mini in direct sunlight will not look good. The sun will bounce off of the highlights like a diamond, and it will look too bright. Instead, place the mini in a shaded area. But try to have the sun enter this area by a secondary means. I do this by placing the mini in a lightly shaded area in front if a window. The sun bouncing off of the window tends to add a bit more light to the shaded area , just enough to eliminate any unwanted shadow. But if this sounds too complex or limiting, simply take your mini outside and look at it through your camera as you spin around in a circle. You'll find that sweet spot. Shoot from there!

 

[Dragonsreach]

You sure can, but for the most part you can still use it as a standalone white. It's not off white enough to tell, unless it's right next to some pure white. But I suppose if you mixed the two the Ivory could over power the pure white chalkiness, sure...

If you want a Triad you can use :-

VMC Iraqi Sand
VMC Ivory
VMC Offwhite
VMC Airbrush White

in a "perm any three from these" method.

Take your gallery photos outdoors. What better natural light exists?

I'm going to disagree with you here for a number of reasons, the biggest one is that regional variations in climate mean that the "Natural Daylight" lighting is inconsistent.
Being close to Manchester means high cloud possibility followed by looks of rain and the "Oh Hell, I'm blind" sunshine surprise.
Far better to invest in a couple of lights and record the set up details when you get the best pictures You are Happy with and not relying on the weather.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

I'm going to disagree with you here for a number of reasons, the biggest one is that regional variations in climate mean that the "Natural Daylight" lighting is inconsistent.
Being close to Manchester means high cloud possibility followed by looks of rain and the "Oh Hell, I'm blind" sunshine surprise.
Far better to invest in a couple of lights and record the set up details when you get the best pictures You are Happy with and not relying on the weather.

You're right, of course. Perhaps I should rephrase my meaning. Outdoor mini photography can be a successful alternative. Of course, conditions will limit the results. It will always be second to a good set up like you mentioned. However, if your supplies are limited OR you have trouble mastering that technique, try shooting outside.

I should also mention that, for me, sun or clouds do not affect my results, since I choose a shady area just outside of the sun's direct light anyway. But yes, certain weather conditions can make it more challenging.

 

[BloodFather of Kharnath]

BloodFather's Unique Painting Tip #5

Many people struggle with NMM gold. It's more complex than the black, gray and white of steel. You can't rely on some of the same principles. I struggled at first-and still do maybe. But one particular recipe made it easier for me.

Use a desaturated brown for NMM gold. The following is an example recipe. You can modify it, but if you want to promise success you MUST stick with the brown and lightened brown only. No adding ochres or glazing on yellows, etc

Start with snakebite. An acceptable substitute is VGC Leather Brown, though be careful as this separates frequently. Base with SB. Then progressively lighten it by adding VMC Ivory. Final glints with pure Ivory, but keep them as super small dots. To shade, use black or VMC Smoke. When this dries, add a bit of purple to the darkest spot. Done. NMM gold.

Of course, the rules of proper NMM lighting apply. But follow this and you'll be sure to fix the errors in your NMM gold, which may have been too complex.

 

[MAXXxxx]

funny as I know a painter who has no problem painting nmm gold (I showed it only once and I think she paints it better, than I do), but struggles with the grey ones. No idea why.

Also 2 alternative recipes I use:
- start with the same snakebite, but shade with bestialbrown, then scorchedbrown and highlight with goldenyellow, then white before glazing a bit of purple at the end.
- start with bubonic brown, then it's pretty much the same as BFoK's version (ivory/bbone+white, scorchedbrown/black, glaze).

Mixing the above three (or more with other recipes) helps a lot in having different golds, not just always the same. You could even paint a gold-golem, where each part is gold with a different recipe or just different glaze at the end to help define the different parts.