MAXXxxx WIPs

KruleBear

Active member
Maxxx, i have never done this, so take my comments with a grain of salt. Your original placement on the mini was closer to correct than the current progress because the earth line was parallel with the horizon. Iirc Crispy has a straight firward tutorial on semm i. The tutorial section.

edit: here it is. "Reflectind on SENMM" http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1191-reflecting-on-senmm

a Julie Bell painting example:
 
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MAXXxxx

Well-known member
painters block? I had 2 full days when I did basically nothing, but that includes not progressing with the SENMM mini too.


The only thing I 'painted' were these shoulderpads to show that an effect similar to AB can be done with brush too.

left: cheat. white primer, black pigment, done in less than 5 minutes. A bit too light for black with highlights
right: fast layering done in about 15 minutes or so, not perfect but showed that it can be done, just takes more work and a lot more time.
View attachment 37812

pigment again, but on a dark grey base instead of white to show the difference in shades, feels darker.
View attachment 37813
 
Wow, just black pigment powders used there? Not bad at all. Been wanting to introduce pigments into my normal layering, or to supplement a TMM effect I'm after, so good to see this.

My as far as your misunderstanding one of my statements on the SENMM, that was an editing error by me. I think I meant to say that you did the right thing using the horizontal plane, but that it might look better if each plate were painted individually. Let me re-read....

Yes sorry. My God my statement must have been confusing. What happened was I changed my mind as to what you should do, or what is right to do, in the middle of my explanation. I forgot to retrace my words and erase a few sentences. In any event, sorry about that buddy :) Let me be clear here: I think you should go with the individual plates with their own HLs. When you painted it that way it looked damn good and realistic to me. After you blend things it'll look even better, especially as you unblock things, edge highlight and maximize your use of white or gray. BINGO!

A side note. How is your English better than most Americans I know?
 
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MAXXxxx

Well-known member
well mostly black pigments on the part that faces to the earth. In reality I only have a darkgrey pigment, so the black used was actually pastel which is not as strong.
Some extra highlights can be introduced with white pigments on the top.

3 small things to consider:
- the pigment really picks out the surface texture, so extra care needs at preparation (or a thick enough base color before to hide them :) )
- colorchange can't really be pushed in one layer. To have a strong color with pigments here you'd need to apply + seal it multiple times.
- it's hilariously easy to shade clothes with them (as long as you have the pastel/pigment for it, that's why I'm eyeing this: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00...liid=I13Q7GFX3GLTZH&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl , or this: http://www.amazon.de/Pigmente-Sorti...0639551&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=pigmentpulver)

on the figure: both you and KruleBear are right that the first one's placement is more realistic, but it made the mini unreadable (for example the knee disappears entirely because of the bands of colors).
So for reference I used Iacton's Cassandra (http://www.coolminiornot.com/355231) and a few Boris Vallejo / Julie Bell paintings I could find in the 8+ books I have from them.
 

Zab

New member
If you live in the US I suggest earthpigments.com I got $100 worth and I will pretty much never have to get any pigments again. Like ever. Props to KL for pointing me to them!
 

KruleBear

Active member
One thing i noticed with Julie and Boris' paintings of metal is that alot of it is not actually senmm, but more of an etheral light, dark abyss, non, metalic, metal (ednmm?). Lol. :).

I have the utmost respect for you going out of your comfort zone to try this.
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
which one to buy?:
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00...liid=I3B578GWCXIX53&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

or

http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00...oliid=I13Q7GFX3GLTZH&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl


some comparisons:
- 100 shades vs 30 (or 31) (even though on the pic I can count only 27)
- subtler vs stronger (can be good either direction)
- 24 euro vs 58
- easier to transport and store vs not so much
- 1 pastelrod should be less than the min. 33g pigment/bottle.
- I like both, so method of apply makes no difference to me
 
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Gandalf the Grey

New member
I've use pigments and the soft pastels and to be honest prefer the pigments purely from a practicality point of view. It takes an age scraping the soft pastels so you have enough to to use where as a pot of pigments can be quickly dipped into and you can work back and forth from different pots quickly.
with pastels you stop, think of a colour, scrape a load off then apply and so on and so on.
 

Terrafirma

New member
If you are going to buy soft pastels make sure they are good quality , like earth mineral ones , I bought some cheaper pastels and they don't give any where as good effects . They practically bleed off when you use attaching spray and disappear.
I did find however the really heavy soft pastels work better than any of the commercial pigments I've bought, that's not to say I've bought crap pigments though
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
slowly my shoulder gets better, I think I can start painting again...

in the mean time I gave into the purchase and bought the pastels. But I found a better deal, all 3 sets of 50-50-50 colors for 33€ (about 36-38$).
View attachment 38380

as the shop was in a nearby town a day later (today) I got them already. I had feared, that because of the price they'll be unusable because of too big grain size or too much filler and not enough pigment.
I tried them and have to say I'm quite happy with the purchase. They are about as strong as the vallejo/FW pigments I have and the grainsize is pretty small(about the same as some of the higher-end pastels I have) when scraped like usual.

ohh and if Webmonkey does an Anime-kit paint along again I found a new figure for that: http://www.e2046.com/product/1261
It's funny that I find a figure that I'm looking for (not oversexualised, no weapons, just a normal civilian, but good looking girl) amongst anime kits, that are pretty much infamous for the opposite.
(also it doesn't have a lot of pieces and is cut up quite cleverly, meaning very little gap-filling and puttying)
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
yay, I 'love' visiting hospitals...
yep, arm still messing with me, because of that this week I only managed to assemble 3 rackham dwarves + basically basecoat them and work a bit on the unit-base.

on the plus side I got a few few anime-SD figures for what I consider really cheap (6 for $18).
and found this tutorial, that's while pretty basic, but good for GK figures: ˙GK Building for beginners

and another one on airbrush NMM: how to paint praying paladin.
While this second isn't a bed video, but the 'NMM' shown and the one that can be seen in some WIPs here are sky and earth.
 

Canny

Active member
Nice links there Max. Thank you. Hope your arm is better soon is a pain being out of action.
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
Some progress on a warm-up diorama, that I started after 1 month of not-painting because of shoulder problems.

View attachment 38633


and did a quick test on the pigments-pastels I have. The following 4 on this picture is black pigment/pastels from different manufacturers.
In Order: Vallejo pigment, Marie's pastel (from the cheap box of 150 colors for 33€), Jaxell (relatively expensive), Faber Castel (more expensive)
View attachment 38634

to be honest I was really surprised on how weak the vallejo pigment is and how good the cheap pastel is. I really thought the FaberCastel will be better than the cheap one, but doesn't look like that.
 

Demihuman

Active member
Treasure! Looks like fun, Sorry about the shoulder, that is no fun. What is your project for the pigments? Are you doing an anime figure?
 
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