Bailey03's WIP
- Thread starter Bailey03
- Start date
Chaotic Creations
New member
Outstanding work on the crusader, the final product is amazing...
You Beauty!Happy to pass the idea along. Cheap ruler and it bends, so perfect for curved surfaces on the mini.
View attachment 66902
You’ve just solved a problem I was having about aligning diagonals on a shaped surface.
You ever get over to the U.K. I’ll owe you a beer or two.
Bailey03
Well-known member
I'm happy to hear it! Considering the countless tips and tricks I've picked up from CMON (and the whole online painting community), I'm glad I can pass on a few of my own.
I'm preparing to move at the end of the month, so I'm putting my tiefling project on hold. There's still lots to do and there's no way I'll finish it before I have to pack everything up. Therefore I decided to work on a project I actually had a shot at wrapping up before July, Brom the 1/35 scale dwarf. I've now attached the hands and club and began painting the rest of the arms. Still need to do the skin on the hands (just base coated at the moment). I also worked on the back, taking care of the weathered armor and a few other details.
I also did some more work on the base. Previously I'd built the broken bridge, but the surface of the base was just bare cork. I used a modeling compound (bag of white powdery material from an art store + water) to create the dirt shapes. While it was still wet, I pressed some rocks into it to create the rocky looking ground that I wanted. When it dried, there was not a strong bond between the compound and the rocks, so I used a few drops of super thin super glue over the rocks (one drop here, one drop there). It quickly spread out and soaked into the base, forming a nice strong bond. Over top I used some white glue in places and sprinkled sand for further texture. I've done this a lot and have found pieces of the sand can get knocked off while painting and handling the piece. So I decided to use the super thin super glue trick again. Worked like a charm. As a bit of advice if you want to try this, super thin super glue flows VERY easily. Carefully let a drop fall out and onto the rocky area. It would not be hard to accidentally douse your base in the glue. It also spreads out and soaks into the base (if it's porous), so start nearer the center of the base and work your way out. It's easy to get this glue where you don't want it, so just be careful. Oh, and should you use baking soda for texture, super glue (thin or otherwise) will create an exothermic reaction. You'll see some vapors rise and hear it and, should it occur on your skin, it'll hurt! If say a bit of the baking soda got onto a paper towel and you used that paper towel to quickly wipe some glue off your hands, that would create an unpleasant surprise for you.
Well, after all that I did a little painting on the base. Got the dirt color down and am now starting on the stones and bridge details.
Foxtail
New member
I wonder how you found this out! Haha
The dwarf and his base are superb Bailey. Glad the angry little guy is making progress
Bailey03
Well-known member
Thanks, all! Yeah, I may have learned that lesson the hard way once or twice.
TheLost, I didn't do a full tutorial, but I did post some process images and explanation over on my painting site. You can find the post here: http://powellminipainting.blogspot.com/2018/03/brom-part-4.html
In short, my approach to weathering metals on this guy has been to start with an undercoat of rust or verdigris colors. I go a bit all over, but I definitely focus on cracks, crevices, areas around bolts, any spot where you'd expect to see weathering. Then I apply the metallic colors. Using stippling in spots helps get a mix of metal and the underlying weathering colors. And, in areas like cracks and around bolts, I omit the metal altogether. Finally, I go back over the metal with another round of weathering. Again, stippling can help create a more random look. I might add some streaks in places. Whatever I think might look realistic.
TheLost, I didn't do a full tutorial, but I did post some process images and explanation over on my painting site. You can find the post here: http://powellminipainting.blogspot.com/2018/03/brom-part-4.html
In short, my approach to weathering metals on this guy has been to start with an undercoat of rust or verdigris colors. I go a bit all over, but I definitely focus on cracks, crevices, areas around bolts, any spot where you'd expect to see weathering. Then I apply the metallic colors. Using stippling in spots helps get a mix of metal and the underlying weathering colors. And, in areas like cracks and around bolts, I omit the metal altogether. Finally, I go back over the metal with another round of weathering. Again, stippling can help create a more random look. I might add some streaks in places. Whatever I think might look realistic.
Bailey03
Well-known member
I've been pretty quiet here, but I'm still around! Spent most of June preparing to move to a new town (from LA to San Jose). And then July and a lot of August have been taken up with the move, unpacking, and plenty of work.
Finally I've had the time to pick up the brush again. I did a bit of work on my old projects, but as they at slow stages I found they weren't really helping me get my painting groove back. I decided the best thing to do was start up a new figure and have some fun with it. I looked around the collection and settled on a 54mm gladiator from Pegaso. I've loved the sculpt of the Scissor Gladiator for a while. I think it just looks really cool. So I decided to give that a go.
I had a hell of a time with the blade on his left arm. I don't know if it's supposed to be two pieces or mine just broke before I got it (picked the kit up second hand off Ebay). But several failed attempts at getting it on and I gave up. I removed the rod and drilled a hole down into the arm. I took some wire, bent the very end and sculpted a new blade around it (the bend was so the clay had a better bond and wouldn't just slip off. Once complete, I clipped the wire to the correct length and inserted it down into the arm. The blade was now firmly on the rod and the rod was pinned to the figure. It's still delicate, but not nearly as fragile as it was!
With that taken care of, I primed the model and get to work. This is a great figure for practicing metallics. I'm taking him just a bit at a time and so far have focused on the helmet and the manica. For the metals, I use Scale 75's Metal 'n Alchemy set along with matte colors from Reaper. I like to mix in the matte shades so I can control the shine of the metallic paints. This helps me keep the dark parts dark no matter what light is hitting them. Then, for the shinier spots, I use pure metallics (and lighter metallics) so they react to the light. Here's where he is at the moment. The local hobby show is going a paint night tonight, so I'm planning to head up there and see what I can get done on this guys torso.
Finally I've had the time to pick up the brush again. I did a bit of work on my old projects, but as they at slow stages I found they weren't really helping me get my painting groove back. I decided the best thing to do was start up a new figure and have some fun with it. I looked around the collection and settled on a 54mm gladiator from Pegaso. I've loved the sculpt of the Scissor Gladiator for a while. I think it just looks really cool. So I decided to give that a go.
I had a hell of a time with the blade on his left arm. I don't know if it's supposed to be two pieces or mine just broke before I got it (picked the kit up second hand off Ebay). But several failed attempts at getting it on and I gave up. I removed the rod and drilled a hole down into the arm. I took some wire, bent the very end and sculpted a new blade around it (the bend was so the clay had a better bond and wouldn't just slip off. Once complete, I clipped the wire to the correct length and inserted it down into the arm. The blade was now firmly on the rod and the rod was pinned to the figure. It's still delicate, but not nearly as fragile as it was!
With that taken care of, I primed the model and get to work. This is a great figure for practicing metallics. I'm taking him just a bit at a time and so far have focused on the helmet and the manica. For the metals, I use Scale 75's Metal 'n Alchemy set along with matte colors from Reaper. I like to mix in the matte shades so I can control the shine of the metallic paints. This helps me keep the dark parts dark no matter what light is hitting them. Then, for the shinier spots, I use pure metallics (and lighter metallics) so they react to the light. Here's where he is at the moment. The local hobby show is going a paint night tonight, so I'm planning to head up there and see what I can get done on this guys torso.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Right back in the drivers seat and hasn’t missed the beat at all!!! I feel this is some of the best realistic style gold in miniature painting today. It’s masterful. The high contrast works marvels!!!
SkelettetS
New member
looking great man, want me to switch back to real metals
Metal grip
I've seen this tool before, that you've pinned the mini on. Can I ask what it is? and how to you attach the mini to it? I'm transitioning from painting tabeltop minis to 75mm, and trying to learn some of the basics as far as tools and process! Ironically, struggling with how to pin them down! I have a Rathcore cork holder and wondering how best to pin them down. I'm assuming you have to drill into the bottom of the mini to glue some sort of pin?
I've seen this tool before, that you've pinned the mini on. Can I ask what it is? and how to you attach the mini to it? I'm transitioning from painting tabeltop minis to 75mm, and trying to learn some of the basics as far as tools and process! Ironically, struggling with how to pin them down! I have a Rathcore cork holder and wondering how best to pin them down. I'm assuming you have to drill into the bottom of the mini to glue some sort of pin?
