Unsculpting - How Best to Get Rid of Extras

Wren

Member
I\'ve got a miniature I\'d like to use for something, and while it\'s close to what I need, it\'s not dead-on. Mainly the problem is it has extra bits that should be removed - sheaths, belt pouches, that sort of thing. I\'m not very practiced at altering or converting minis. I\'ve used greenstuff to replace texture or fix problems in a sculpt, and I\'m getting a little more comfortable with that, but I\'m not really a seasoned sculptor.

I\'m assuming that the way to approach this is just to use clippers and files to get rid of the metal I don\'t want and then go back in with GS to sculpt in what would have been under the removed items. But I thought I would check if anyone has tips or tricks for this kind of thing that might make it easier.

For an example of what I\'m looking to do - this is Lysette out of the pack. Then this version has a resculpted face and removed sword and scabbard. He mentions carving and filing. Just regular knife and files? How do you get into areas like the face that are often hard to reach?
 

demonherald

New member
No Links right now Wren but will have a look.... In general I remove bigger easier pieces with clippers.. slightly more fiddly bit with knife fiddlier still with a file... I also use a Dremel with a small Milling bit...slow and steady wins the day...

one tip I can offer is sometimes when removing lots of details around the waist or under arms etc it can be beneficial to use a fine saw and cut the model in half at the waist or cut the arm off and repin after the areas have been cleaned and prepped....
 

demonherald

New member
Oh and for getting really smooth blends of putty-metal get yourself either Milliput (cheap option) Or Magic Sculp (the best stuff out there IMHO) both blend into the surface they are being used on a lot lot smoother and easier than GS.. Milliput can be done with water and a colour shaper.. Magi sculp is better with methylated spirits and either a shaper or a stiff brush .. Ideal for alering face details....
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
I\'ve recommended this tool before.
LINK
And I\'m more than happy to do so again.
It\'s a push(*) chisel and pares away pewter and plastic with equal ability. (Oh and lead for some of the older models out there)
I have used it after Clippers to clean up an area of removed detail and then sanded smooth and burnished back the metal with the side of a scribing tool.

It has a replaceable 2mm blade and an alternate 1mm blade which is easily removed/swapped via Allen key.

[size=-2](* That means don\'t try to force the blade via a Hammer or other striking tool, just use hand pressure)[/size]
 

Einion

New member
Originally posted by Wren
I\'m assuming that the way to approach this is just to use clippers and files to get rid of the metal I don\'t want and then go back in with GS to sculpt in what would have been under the removed items.
That\'s what I\'d do, except that I\'d often grind off the bulk of the stuff to be removed with a cutter and/or a silicone-rubber tool instead of cutting by hand and filing/sanding unless access is a problem or there\'s just a small bit to remove.

Originally posted by Wren
I\'ve used greenstuff to replace texture or fix problems in a sculpt, and I\'m getting a little more comfortable with that, but I\'m not really a seasoned sculptor.
We all start somewhere and this is a great way to get into sculpting - making small mods to existing figures. A lot of sculptors, myself included, started this way.

First you strive to equal the quality of what\'s already there; if you apply yourself you\'ll soon match that and even surpass it.

Einion
 

No Such Agency

New member
Originally posted by Dragonsreach
I\'ve recommended this tool before.
LINK

want-745656.jpg
 

DaN

New member
I\'d recommend using SHAPED files too...

Ie. Rather than just a standard flat rectangle, you can get tapering files, triangular ones, cylindrical etc etc

Also - As mentioned, a tiny jeweller\'s saw and pin vice for pinning is recommended for larger jobs.
 

Wren

Member
Thanks for the tips guys! I do have problems getting smooth joinings of GS to metal, so I\'m going to give the Magic Sculpt a try.

That tool also looks pretty handy. My local HobbyTown may carry it, but I\'ll have to wait until tomorrow to call as they closed for Easter. I found some NA online vendors, but if I can get it tomorrow and for no shipping cost, all the better!

Thanks again all!
 

Einion

New member
Originally posted by DaN
I\'d recommend using SHAPED files too...

Ie. Rather than just a standard flat rectangle, you can get tapering files, triangular ones, cylindrical etc etc
Doesn\'t everybody have a set of needle files? :)

Extras_1.jpg


These are a fundamental once you\'ve been modelling for a while.

Incidentally if you have to have just one file I\'d recommend a half-round, easily the most versatile of the common profiles.

Einion
 

mud duck

New member
Originally posted by Dragonsreach
I\'ve recommended this tool before.
LINK
And I\'m more than happy to do so again.
It\'s a push(*) chisel and pares away pewter and plastic with equal ability. (Oh and lead for some of the older models out there)
I have used it after Clippers to clean up an area of removed detail and then sanded smooth and burnished back the metal with the side of a scribing tool.

It has a replaceable 2mm blade and an alternate 1mm blade which is easily removed/swapped via Allen key.

[size=-2](* That means don\'t try to force the blade via a Hammer or other striking tool, just use hand pressure)[/size]


Oh great! Another tool that I can put though my thumb :evil:
 

DaN

New member
Least you\'ve not put a pickaxe through your foot :p

@Einion - hehe I guess most people do :D but you never know!

\"Assumption is the mother of all :cussing:-ups\"
 
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