3rd submission

[MClimbin]

Hello all,

I\'ve just posted my 3rd submission, and was hoping some of you had some tips/comments The figure is here:

http://www.coolminiornot.com/?id=38493

I posted two other minis before and was disappointed with the low number of comments so I thought I would ask all of you experts for some.

My one burning question was also mentioned on the page of the pic: after the 3rd coat of matte finish, it somehow got all shiny Any idea why?

Thanks,
Michael

 

[Aryanun]

1) Are you thinning your paints and what kind of paints are you using?

2) What kind of matte finish are you using?

3) What kind and size brush are you using?

It appears that you\'re not thinning your paints enough. If you are thinning, are you only using water? Extender and Flow-Aid will go a long way to helping your paint flow better and give you better results.

Also, if you\'re using cheaper, nylon brushes or old ones that can\'t keep a point, this can affect your control of the paint. Most masters prefer Kolinsky sables (Vallejo are good, Windsor and Newton Series 7 the best) as they keep a point so long as you take care of them. Sure, they can be pricey at about $15 USD a pop, but when you consider than a Series 7 will last you 5-10 times longer than a cheap nylon or golden taklon, the cost is much more efficient.

Also, before you try and get into blending overmuch, I\'d try and concentrate on getting highlighting and washes down first, maybe even some basic layering. Blending, in my experience, is a more complex skill and I don\'t see many highlights yet.

And don\'t overload your brush. A little goes a long way. If you dip into your palette and then wipe a bit off before applying the very tip of your brush to the raised areas, such as the intricate designs on the armor, you\'ll find you have more control and you won\'t end up with streaks of paint on other places.

Overall, it\'s not bad, but there is still room for improvement. I\'m certain there are others who can give a lot better advice than I can.

As for the matte finish, a lot depends on what brand you\'re using. Testor\'s Dullcoat is the brand of choice. Make certain each layer of dullcoat is completely dry (I normally wait 24 hours between layers), keep an eye on the weather (high humidity and/or heat can cause cloudiness), and don\'t overspray. You want very thin coats.

Other than that, I\'m still learning, just as you are. Mostly what I see on this mini in particular is that the paint seems a bit thick and you need more brush control.

Hope that helps.

 

[supervike]

Matte Varnish...

When you use a Matte Varnish, make sure you shake the heck out of the can. Really shake for about 2 minutes or so. Sometimes it does appear shiny if it isn\'t properly mixed....

 

[supervike]

me again....

Another suggestion might be to use \"black lining\".

Using thinned black paint, or even ink and carefully paint a line wherever two different things meet (like the hand and the sleeve)

On your mini in particular even a thinned brown paint touching around the skin areas would make the face and hands \"stand out\" a little more.

Some people don\'t care for the ideabut I think it is a relatively simple, effective way to help define stuff.

Good luck!!

 

[MClimbin]

Thanks!

Thanks to SV and A.

I am thinning paints but it seems that they should go even thinner. I think that some of the chunkiness in the armour especially might be because of the gloss, but I can definitely go thinner anyway.

I use a combination of Reaper and GW paints. The Reaper ones are especially gloppy, and need lots of water.

Matte sealer: Armory. I\'ll check out the other brand, and keep the coats thin.

I just upgraded to W&N brushes, but made a mistake and ordered a 3 instead of a 003 (doh!), so mostly used the 0 and a teklon detail brush. I noticed the difference, though, so will be getting a new detail brush soon.

I was surprised that the W&N brushes were so absorbant--I\'m used to being able to see the paint in the bristles, and so knowing if there is enough there. So anyway, I\'ll keep working on lighter coats.

Blacklining seems to be the thing I should work on next, along with highlighting and washing. So now I know what to work on, Thanks! :flip:

 

[finn17]

Shiny Matt?

Too thick a covering will produce a shiny finish. I normally seal mine with a gloss for protection and then give a couple of light dustings with matt. When I say light, I mean I spray the varnish in the air and wave the model around in the mist...that light

 

[U4-Welcome]

I spray my matte varnish at precisely one arm\'s length, in one-second sprays, from all four directions plus from above. Repeat a few times. On long, flowing parts, like robes, I\'ll use brish-on varnish.

Can you tell I\'m an engineer ? lol

 

[Aryanun]

Try getting some Flow Improver (Windsor & Newton and Liquitex make some excellent ones... I use Liquitex Flow-Aid and also the Liquitex Slow Dri, but do NOT use the milky or gel type extenders if you use it)... Flow Aid will make your paints behave, whereas water can leave rings and such.

You want your paints thin, and I\'m talking about skim-milk thin. If you have a white, ceramic tile (about 50 cents at Home Depot) and you zig-zag your brush across the pallete it should be a nice coat of color where the paint pools and very translucent where it\'s thin. This advice comes from Jennifer Haley and Anne Foerster.

The typical ratio of flow improver (some people use Future floor cleaner instead, but it can be glossy doesn\'t work quite as well, but does break the surface tension) and extender (since I use both) is about 3 drops flow aid to 2-5 drops extender (depending on if I\'m blending or not) to 1 drop water and 1-2 drops paint, depending on how thin or thick the paint is. I use Reaper exclusively right now.

Extender will REALLY help you with blending as it keeps the paint from drying quickly and allows you time to work with it. Just keep an eye out and allow the paint to dry fully before you go with layering or you\'ll pick up underlying layers. Some people will spritz some dullcoat between layers to keep this from happening.

 

[slidedog]

Armory goes on very nice, BUT it is by no means matte, it\'s more of a satin finish that definately still has a gloss to it. Use Testors or GW\'s matte varnish for a more matte finish.

In the painting try to vary your tones between the shadow and highlight more, and as was said a bit of black lining would help define the details on your mini more.

Keep up the good work, it\'s a learning experience for all of us!

 

[Trevor]

I\'ve found that GWs matt spray is only matt directly over paint, if you gloss first it only goes satin. Also on its own it is very brittle and chips are a real problem. I\'m having good luck with Humbrol matt spray, if you can\'t find the Testors.

I\'m also having problems with Testors gloss, it is making my GW blues and purples bleed through, its very annoying. I think its actually the ink glazes I\'m using that are bleeding through, does anyone know of a way to stop this?