A Heartbreaker Mage
- Thread starter bwatford
- Start date
Thunderhawker
New member
You have some skill here, it just needs some refinement. Your basics are there.
Here is the list as I see it (so take that for what its worth):
-In lieu of the heavier layers of paint, try using very thin layers after your basecoat - further instead of trying to get complete coverage in one coat on your basecoat, use 2-3 thinner layers.
- When shading and highlighting try and make the transition a bit smoother by using your base/medium color in the transitioning layers. i.e., If shadow grey is your base color and you want your highlights to be space wolf grey, slowly add the SW grey in successive layers
- Using these thinner layers, always pull your brush to where you want the paint to build - for highlights pull away from the shadows for example
- Keep your brush wet, but unload it. What I mean here is have a paper towel or napkin (Or coffee filter, as they absorb fantastically) to drain off the excess paint. This will prevent pooling and help smooth your transitions. It should dry very quickly as well. If its not drying fast enough, blow on it. Remember to clean your brush often when doing this.
- Your metallics may need some tweaking but I am the wrong person to ask about that as they are my biggest weakness these days.
As I mentioned you have the basics down. Time, patience and practice will bear fruit if you use them.
Here is the list as I see it (so take that for what its worth):
-In lieu of the heavier layers of paint, try using very thin layers after your basecoat - further instead of trying to get complete coverage in one coat on your basecoat, use 2-3 thinner layers.
- When shading and highlighting try and make the transition a bit smoother by using your base/medium color in the transitioning layers. i.e., If shadow grey is your base color and you want your highlights to be space wolf grey, slowly add the SW grey in successive layers
- Using these thinner layers, always pull your brush to where you want the paint to build - for highlights pull away from the shadows for example
- Keep your brush wet, but unload it. What I mean here is have a paper towel or napkin (Or coffee filter, as they absorb fantastically) to drain off the excess paint. This will prevent pooling and help smooth your transitions. It should dry very quickly as well. If its not drying fast enough, blow on it. Remember to clean your brush often when doing this.
- Your metallics may need some tweaking but I am the wrong person to ask about that as they are my biggest weakness these days.
As I mentioned you have the basics down. Time, patience and practice will bear fruit if you use them.
So working with a very very thin paint (highlight color) apply a layer covering most of the base color except the crevices? Then come back again leaving a little more of the crevices. Keep doing this until you reach the highpoints which by that time should be the full highlight color?
Is this correct? So we\'re not changing the paint mix ratio? right? Just adding very thin layers over and over until we get to the desired effect?
If this is correct then what do you suggest as a medium for thinning the paints that thin? Water to thin the paint that much starts leaving water rings sometimes? Would you use a glaze medium? Or a thinner?
Thanks for the help.
Is this correct? So we\'re not changing the paint mix ratio? right? Just adding very thin layers over and over until we get to the desired effect?
If this is correct then what do you suggest as a medium for thinning the paints that thin? Water to thin the paint that much starts leaving water rings sometimes? Would you use a glaze medium? Or a thinner?
Thanks for the help.
Thunderhawker
New member
Originally posted by bwatford
So working with a very very thin paint (highlight color) apply a layer covering most of the base color except the crevices?
Yes, unless you have added a darker shade. Personally I shade first, clean up the middle range color, then move to highlights, bringing them just short of the middle point of color i want. Then the next layer is short of that, etc.
Then come back again leaving a little more of the crevices. Keep doing this until you reach the highpoints which by that time should be the full highlight color?
It will take many many MANY layers, but yes, this is the general idea
Is this correct? So we\'re not changing the paint mix ratio? right? Just adding very thin layers over and over until we get to the desired effect?
By paint mix ratio, if you mean how thick the paint is, then no. You want the paint thin to let the color build slowly, so the transition is smooth. Also adding your highlight color little by little to your base color will add to the smoothness. Once you reach your highlight color you can then add an even thinner layer of your basecoat as a wash over everything to even things out.
If this is correct then what do you suggest as a medium for thinning the paints that thin? Water to thin the paint that much starts leaving water rings sometimes? Would you use a glaze medium? Or a thinner?
This is why you unload your brush on an absorbent surface. This is also why you \"drag\" your paint toward where you want it to build (dark to light for highlights). If you feel the need to add something to smooth the paint a bit, Future or any other acrylic floor polish should work. Personally, I use Future at about 4:1 Water:Future.
Thanks for the help.
You are most welcome
Makes since, future is an acrylic based product. Ok so one more question.
Once you have the base coat done, wouldn\'t you apply a shadow color wash to the crevices and folds before you start the highlighting? Or just leave the base color as the shadow color?
I\'ve always just washed and drybrushed but I\'m looking to get past that so thats the reason for the question above.
Once you have the base coat done, wouldn\'t you apply a shadow color wash to the crevices and folds before you start the highlighting? Or just leave the base color as the shadow color?
I\'ve always just washed and drybrushed but I\'m looking to get past that so thats the reason for the question above.
monkeyman7x
New member
yes, i believe thunderhawker said it too, i personally basecoat, then shade,,,rework the basecoat so the transition between the shade and base is smooth, then go back in with your highlights.
chris
chris
Thunderhawker
New member
There is nothing wrong with drybrushing if used correctly. I drybrush my Orange Krush Orks, but I do it a bit differently: After a base coat of the shadow color, I drybrush the middle/base color then layer the hihlights on top. This does two things:
1. It serves as a guide for the layers to come
2. It adds a hint of texture without making the mini seem dirty.
Though TBH for competition level pieces I would avoid drybrushing.
1. It serves as a guide for the layers to come
2. It adds a hint of texture without making the mini seem dirty.
Though TBH for competition level pieces I would avoid drybrushing.
Point every one in this direction - when ever in doubt just read TH first post , I actually believe every thing you need to know to become a really good painter is hidden in those lines.
Your mini is good as it is, but as you say you need to take it up a level - as TH said, one of the most important things is thin paint, I\'d say start there.
I too do my shadig after base color, and often drybrush my base color to take advantage of the natural shadow - the layer my colors after that.
, I actually believe every thing you need to know to become a really good painter is hidden in those lines.Your mini is good as it is, but as you say you need to take it up a level - as TH said, one of the most important things is thin paint, I\'d say start there.
I too do my shadig after base color, and often drybrush my base color to take advantage of the natural shadow - the layer my colors after that.
Infidel Castro
New member
Without reading all the other advice on this thread, my suggestion would be to get a painter-friendly figure in the first instance. That looks like it was hell to paint.
