Found this in a thread about Airbrushes and thought it would be worth a quick discussion on Priming/Priming techniques
I've used GW products in the past (OK you can stop laughing at the back) and after wasting many a pound have eventually switched to Halfords Automotive Grey Primer.
Now reading Kevin's description got me thinking about how we approach Priming so I decided to elucidate on my way.
Most recently I've primed a set of figures for use with Empire of the Dead (West Wind Productions new Steampunk-ish game {Very like Necromunda, but with Top Hats and lots of Brass}) These are the Gentlemens Club http://www.westwindproductions.co.uk/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=1616 Plus a couple of others from Lead Adventures (Ratnick), a total of ten figures.
As with all batch priming I split these up into groups of five and I placed these on two inverted old Pie Tins which were once used for baking. These have a depth of Approx 1-1.5 Inches so I can get my hand under easily, but I still have a habit of using El Cheapo latex gloves from the Pound shop on my left hand (I'm Right handed) to protect the skin and shirt cuff (Yes I've accidentally sprayed Grey Primer on a Good shirt, which didn't come out).
Holding the Pie Tin at Eye Level and after shaking the spray like mad I sprayed the figures with the nozzle level with the point at which the models stand (The Horizon).
I rotate the tin stand and repeat the process from the same level. Probably two or three times dependant on the amount of details and undercuts on the models.
Then as per usual it's a spray from 45 degree above the Horizon to ensure "top down" cover.
Since automotive primer dries a lot faster than acrylic paints I'm usually able to put one set of a batch down in the fresh air and do a second or subsequent set.By the time the next set is done the First set is ready for inspection and any badly missed areas or undercuts are given a quick touch from roughly 45 degrees below the Horizon line.
When it comes to a Single figure for Competitions or Commissions I do things differently.
I've made several Painting stands/grips using Plastic Tubing and Demi John Corks and I attach the figure to one of these via Pin & Superglue.
This I hold so that the figure is upside down (Confidence in Loctite is essential!) and make several passes, turning the figure after each pass, ensuring good but light cover, before I rotate the figure rightway up and repeat the passes.
I thought this might be of some help to others as Preparation/Priming is the very first thing we do with a mini, Paintwise at least.
(If you have another First thing you do with a mini...........Well What Happens in Vegas Stays In Vegas). :stop::tremble!:
Oh and a quick word about Primers; I've used tested a lot of paint over the years including GW's Spray so here's my thoughts:-
GW Black or White = Expensive for what it is.
Plasticote = Takes 24 hours to dry unless the temperature is in the 25+ range (In the UK Yeah right) but the Antique White is a great Bone Basecoat.
Humbrol Acrylic Spray Matt = Excellent for Batch priming for Armies and Tanks (Dark Brown is almost British Army Uniform)
Montana Gold = So Many Colours :claply
I'm using Brick Red to prime the MDF houses I'm putting together for E.o.t..D. and couldn't be more pleased with the cover or the colour) Dries within a few minutes on the MDF but since this is a Graffitti Spray I'd expect it to dry reasonably quickly.Army Painter = I've only used the White and TBH I'm not keen it's too much like the GW stuff.
Tamiya Fine Primer = This has a very soft coverage and I found it difficult to paint over having a soft eggshell/satiny finish.
Halfords automotive = Still using the Grey spray I bought 3 years ago. I'm finding that I'm getting Serious Value for Money out of this tin and by the feels of it I have still a good amount left in it.
