A WIP by Ogrebane (Updated 15/3/07)

Ogrebane

Active member
I posted this at \"The ogrestronghold\" but I thought Id better ost it here as well before some one found out. Ive had quite a few peole ask me about various thing to do with my ogres. So to try and answer as many questions as possible Ive decided to do a WIP.

Yes I here you moan not another WIP. Well too bad Im doing it anyway.

So I have a Tournament in 3 weeks and I need a BSB. Never used one before but all the good ogre players are taking them so I am too. So I will be posting my progress on the little fella.

Also I need a name for him so if you have some good ideas let me know. (Theme is Brettonians if you didnt know already)

Now some people sketch pictures for posses etc and use blue tac to rearrange bits till they look the way they want. i dont do that. I usually have a vague idea (and usually no clue) of what I want and let the guy come to life as we go. This is no exception. I want him holding an actual standard and I want sword (or club) arm in the air and thats about as far as Ive got. As always I like my Ogres tall. Most of my ogres stand a head taller than other ogres and my characters I want even taller so this is what I do to achieve that.

OK so here we go. This is the initial stage I start with the following bits.
BSB001.jpg

I will show you how I do my bases as well and yes another cork base but hey if it aint broke (its doesnt have enough features : some engineer)

Ok so we start with this body and these arm bits
BSB002a.jpg
BSB003.jpg


So now we cut the little fella up. Now for you Yanks (Americans) this will look a little like a scene from dexter but it is required trust me.
BSB007.jpg

As you can see I cut the legs at the top of the boot and at an angle at the groin. The bent leg may need to be cut from both directions so as not to lose too much detail but you\'ll get the idea once you start cutting. I use a diamond saw. Its a really thin bladed saw like thus
wood_grain_tute_002.jpg


You could use a knife but I find it a little dangerous and doesnt do as good a job. These saws cut real fine and dont cost too much. I got mine from a hobby store but Ive seen them in DIY stores as well.

OK not much else done tonite. Here are a few shots of how I make the body taller
BSB010.jpg
BSB011.jpg

In this one I have used some spru and cut it to shape then glued it onto the bottom of the mini. And in this one a bit of spru cut at and angle to make the arm straighter.
 

Ogrebane

Active member
OK so Ive stuck this guy together. And he looks a little like this
BSB020.jpg
BSB021.jpg

As you can see I couldnt find the shoes so I will have to make them from scratch.
I will show each pice as I do them. Anyway green stuff next up.
Also if your interested here is how I extend the arms.
BSB_Arm_1.jpg

The cut of forearm. A hole drilleed in it. More useless spru. A hole drilled thru the bicep with enough left to fit the arm into the shoulder.
And the finished arm (Before GSing) looks likes this
BSB_Arm_2.jpg

OK more to come when I start GSing.
 

Ogrebane

Active member
OK So this is the first stage of the GS. Basically Im just filling in the holes. You dont have to be too carefull here but the more care the less work. So the next stage looks like this
BSB_gs_3.jpg

All the holes are filled in and a little bit of shaping has been started. The great thing about ogres tho is if you dont know anatomy dont worry you can cover it with chain mail ot plates etc. More of that later. Also I have roughed the arms as so
BSB_arm_3.jpg

I have done a rough shape of the muscle which I will define later. remember at this stage you dont have to fill all the way out as the fine work will be done later. One thing I have found with GS is if you try and do it all at once you end up with a real mess so take it slow and build it up in stages.

Also if you have no patients (Yes thats my hand in the air) You can cure the GS quicker by heating it. (Saftey warning here: Dont apply heat directly to mini or GS. Both WILL melt and can catch on fire). OK the heat I use is a light bulb. My lamp has a flexi neck so just position the globe CLOSE to but NOT touching the mini and drying time will be about 15-20 minutes instead of 2-3 hours. Also when you mix you GS give it 15 minutes or so to sit and it will be a little easier to use.

OK next installment later tonite or tomorrow morning. Have fun.
 

WingZ

New member
wow this is really cool.. & i love the idea of useing spru.. thats just awesome.. show me show me more oh wise one
 

emopainterguy

New member
Wow! Great way to make the ogres more human like in proportion. I hope you dont mind if I use that technique when I eventually get around to doing my ogres. Haven\'t seen much from you lately. I remember when I first joined up on CMoN you were one of my favorite painters, I really loved what you were doing with the ogres... Can\'t wait to see more
 

ZapotekE

New member
@Ogrebane, Dexter rules! ... and so do you :D now I know how I will do with a conversion project I\'ve been playing around with in my head. Thanks and keep up the good work. :beer:
 

Jericho

Consummate Brushlicker
Careful cooking conversions near lamps, some types of bulbs are hotter than others and can warp/melt the plastic easily! If there\'s any air bubbles in the plastic they can screw things up too. I\'ve had that happen before when curing greenstuff near a worklamp.

Can\'t wait to see him done, man!
 

Ogrebane

Active member
Originally posted by Jericho
Careful cooking conversions near lamps, some types of bulbs are hotter than others and can warp/melt the plastic easily! If there\'s any air bubbles in the plastic they can screw things up too. I\'ve had that happen before when curing greenstuff near a worklamp.

Can\'t wait to see him done, man!
So True. I had my banner under the lamp last night and it melted cause I left it a little too long. Hopefully I can recover it. (Just not sure how)

OK so Ive done some more. I started at the feet and worked up.
First I shaped the plastic. I was rough as this will be covered over and I can clean it up properly once the GS is dried.
I also filled in the holes and shaped the foot with GS at this stage.
BSB_feet_1.jpg
BSB_feet_2.jpg
BSB_feet_3.jpg


OK the GS is dried (sort of) So I shaped the heal and toe cap. I also added a finge of fur to the top of the boot. There are enough tutes on how to do that so I wont bore you with how I do mine but its basically the way everyone else does fur.
BSB_feet_4.jpg
BSB_feet_5.jpg
BSB_feet_6.jpg

Still a bit of cleaning up to do but Im reasonably happy with the shoes. O will add some rivets some time later.
 

Larre

New member
I\'ve got a tip for you. where the putty meets plastic, try to make a smoothe transition aetween them. if not it will show off on the mini.

// Larre
 

Ogrebane

Active member
Heres a little bit more that Ive done.
I started to clean up the legs. Its just a matter of putting the GS down and then with a wet tool (No sniggering now)working the GS till its smooth. Give the GS 15 minutes or so to cure.
BSB063.jpg
BSB064.jpg


This is the upper torso. Ive added some folds for the Surcoat and started to smooth out the cloth. I use rolls of GS to make the cloth like the first pic suggests.
BSB073.jpg
BSB077.jpg
BSB079.jpg


Also A close up of the back of the right arm. I need to shape the Vambraces (Bracers)
BSB078.jpg


Ok enough for now. Maybe some more this arvo.
 

Ogrebane

Active member
Ok a bit of a detour here.

First up if you remember me telling you about fast curing your GS and the dangers. Well heres what happens when you’re not careful.
BSB_Std_1.jpg

So I will have to make a whole new banner (Maybe) at some later stage.

Also here are a few of the tools that I use to sculpt with
BSB083.jpg

BSB082.jpg

You might notice a theme here. I use sprues allot. I rarely throw them away because they are so useful. There uses are so many and varied that I will leave them till a later tute. Anyway I have made a few different shaped stamps for use with GS. If you need to practice your GSing then I would suggest using blue tac for practicing making chain and chain mail and seeing if your stamps are the right shape.
i.e. For rivets a 1.5mm hole drilled into some sprue. Leave the end flat. For lacing or stitching an oval hole and the point sharpened will work wonders. I would suggest you experiment till you find what works for you but as I said I use blu tac to test all my stuff before it touches GS.

Anyway enough blathering I will post more updates tomorrow including a how to make chain mail tute.
 

Ogrebane

Active member
I will do a tute on reusing sprus later. For now I would like to show you how I make the surcoats for my ogres. If I was making this any bigger I would mix milliput with the GS (like with my rhinox\'s) as it makes it alot stronger.

Anyway you start with these items.

A plastic sheet. A roller some plasticard and of course some GS.
Blu tac the Plasticard to the plastic sheet. This will give you the thickness of the Surcoat.
Surcoat_001.jpg
Surcoat_002.jpg

Mix GS and place like so. Then roll it flat. Remeber to wet the plastic card and the roller or the GS will stick.
Surcoat_003.jpg
Surcoat_004.jpg

And you should end up with something like this.
Surcoat_005.jpg

Heres a shot of how I apply the gs. I like to keep the folds already on the ogre mini cause Im not so good at doing cloth yet.
Surcoat_006.jpg
Surcoat_007.jpg

And this is what it should look like.
Surcoat_008.jpg
 

Ogrebane

Active member
OK next onto the Chain mail. There are several ways of making chain mail. I use a couple of different methods depending on what I want as a final result.
Heres a few examples.

This tool was made by drilling a .5mm hole into a piece of round spru. Then a 1.5mm hole then a piece of wire was inserted and a part of the side was cut away. As you can see I practice on blu tac to get the hang of it before I start on GS.
ChainM_tute_001.jpg
ChainM_tute_002.jpg


This one is done with a piece of sharped spru. You can use a needle piece of wire or anything small and round.
ChainM_tute_003.jpg
ChainM_tute_004.jpg


The trick with chain mail is to take your time and try to be neat. Cover the area you are going to do with GS and make all the fold etc. Then very carefully start making your chain mail. The neater you are the better the result.

Hers how my chain mail turned out.
ChainM_tute_005.jpg

You could just as easily use the pin method and come up with alot better results. Unfortunately I didnt take my own advice and rushed this so its not as neat as I would like. But I think it still turned out OK.
 

Ogrebane

Active member
Just a quick update. heres the little fella to date
BSB034.jpg
BSB033.jpg


You might have noticed that I changed the head. I didnt want to make a bucket helmut (too lazy). I fill the beard in so it looks more bretonnian than oriental. So this guy is nearly done, I just have to make the weapon and banner and the base. More soon.
 

OrkyDave

New member
This is looking great!!! I really like these taller ogres, and thanks for the GS cloth and chain tutorials, I need all the help I can get with sculpting, and you have explained it in an easy to follow way!
 

Undave

Flockwit
Yaaay I tried the thing with the sprue and the hole and it works now everything\'s going to be covered in rivets :D:D:D
 

lono

New member
He\'s pretty cool! I know you admitted to rushing the chainmail, but perhaps some more effort to make it look like the links are connected would pay off. What\'s going to go on with the belt and gut plate exactly, or should I just wait and see in the next update?
 
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