Air brush

[MrPickles]

i checked the passed threads but im not finding exactly what i'm looking for.

iv also watched brandon palmers video and based on that i'm thinking i need the paasche VL and the TC-20 tank???

not exactly sure. also ebay is coming up blank.


atm i'm thinking i will be using it mostly to basecoat stuff. any suggestions?


i live in canada, anyone know any websites? ordering online the way to go??
thanks

 

[MrPickles]

after some digging i found it. i guess i was using the wrong search terms.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Paasche-VL-A...042?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c613404aa

thoughts?

 

[airhead]

The VL is a workhorse in the airbrush industry.

My personal preferences are for the Iwata guns. They are a bit more finicky, but I like they way they shoot.

Enion likes the Aztec line. Easy tip changes, easy maintenance.

Air is air, and that compressor will last forever. I'd add a small tank in line to eliminate any pulsing and to condense the moisture. A large dryer works well. I realized that regulator has a small moisture trap, but a large one between the compressor and the regulator acts as a small tank.

 

[MrPickles]

The VL is a workhorse in the airbrush industry.

My personal preferences are for the Iwata guns. They are a bit more finicky, but I like they way they shoot.

Enion likes the Aztec line. Easy tip changes, easy maintenance.

Air is air, and that compressor will last forever. I'd add a small tank in line to eliminate any pulsing and to condense the moisture. A large dryer works well. I realized that regulator has a small moisture trap, but a large one between the compressor and the regulator acts as a small tank.

i did alot more reading after the original posting and i think iv decided on the iwata eclipse HP-CS with TC-20T compressor.

gonna run me about 300 when all is said and done.

 

[airhead]

You'll love it. It should serve you from zenthil priming to freehand camo on armor.

 

[MrPickles]

You'll love it. It should serve you from zenthil priming to freehand camo on armor.

cool thanks.

it says it comes with a .35 nozzle? is that good enough?

im not sure if it comes with any replacement needles/stuff etc. do i need any extra parts? (what part gets worn out the fastest?)

 

[airhead]

cool thanks.

it says it comes with a .35 nozzle? is that good enough?

im not sure if it comes with any replacement needles/stuff etc. do i need any extra parts? (what part gets worn out the fastest?)

Needle & cone. They don't wear out, but you'll tip crash and bend the needle - subsequently ruining the cone too. Everyone does it so don't feel like an idiot when you do it. Generally happens when you're learning dagger strokes.

 

[MrPickles]

Needle & cone. They don't wear out, but you'll tip crash and bend the needle - subsequently ruining the cone too. Everyone does it so don't feel like an idiot when you do it. Generally happens when you're learning dagger strokes.

sorry im not really up on the terms. does cone = nozzle tip .35 mm??

yikes that part is 30 bucks. cant afford to be breaking those. the 10 dollar needles i can live with.

 

[airhead]

View attachment 9726
Part Number 4. They tend to get egged out of round when you bend the needle on a tip crash. Always a good idea to keep a spare cone and needle on hand.

I've managed to straighten a needle tip and use one of my wife's fine fingernail files (don't tell her) and put a new point on it. But it never shot right after that. Easier and quicker in the long run to change out the assembly.

 

[me_in_japan]

pardon me for thread-crashing, but I was wondering: what is a tip crash? I mean, it sounds like banging the front end of the airbrush nozzle against a surface, but I'm wondering, even if you did that, how it would damage the needle. The tip of the needle sits behind the front edge of the nozzle (part 1 in your very helpful diagram) doesn't it? Or am I being thick here?

 

[airhead]

pardon me for thread-crashing, but I was wondering: what is a tip crash? I mean, it sounds like banging the front end of the airbrush nozzle against a surface

yes, generally your table with a piece of illustration board on it. But a good mini will do as well. Pulling the airbrush across and closing in on the part as you are going finer and finer, then you hit the front of the airbrush against the part. Bends the tip of the needle.

but I'm wondering, even if you did that, how it would damage the needle. The tip of the needle sits behind the front edge of the nozzle (part 1 in your very helpful diagram) doesn't it? Or am I being thick here?

Not on most of the guns I've used. The needle ticks out past the aircap (part #1 above) as much as 5 mm. The finer the needle/cone set, the longer the taper in the needle and the further it sticks out. And lots of illustrators will take the aircap off so they can clean the needle easier as they go.

 

[RuneBrush]

And lots of illustrators will take the aircap off so they can clean the needle easier as they go.

I take the protective end cap off too as it does make it easier to clean and personally easier to control the paint.

 

[MrPickles]

bleh tcpglobal charges 110 bucks just for shipping of the airbrush and compressor i want. i need to find something canadian.

 

[Einion]

I've managed to straighten a needle tip and use one of my wife's fine fingernail files (don't tell her) and put a new point on it. But it never shot right after that. Easier and quicker in the long run to change out the assembly.

Meant to post something on this a long while back. Would a link to how to do this be of any use or have you read everything worthwhile on the subject?

Obviously once the cone is damaged you're boned, but restoring a needle is apparently doable; in fact I've seen one or two things that say you can improve it compared to straight from the factory.

Einion

 

[QuietiManes]

Really depends on the needle (and how bad you whack it). Some needles are more brittle or hard or soft, so straitening them out is more or less difficult. Once you start grinding off material from the needle, you change the air flow and performance (unless you are a perfect robot who exactly matches the original taper/curve/angle/texture) so that can be either beneficial or harmful to different guns. A few of the rougher needles benefit from polishing apparently, but others do not, as an example.

Some other shops with good reviews (they're in the states though, finding canadian, online, with good prices is unlikely from what I've seen...check your local brick and mortar though, art and craft shops usually have them...with sales this time of year):

http://www.tcgraphicsandpaint.com

http://www.dickblick.com

http://www.bearair.com/

http://store.midtennhobbies.com/airbrushes-c431.aspx (no Iwata's though)

Shipping a compressor will be expensive, no matter where it ships from.

Edit: almost forgot-

http://coastairbrush.com/

 

[MrPickles]

thx for the links. i went with dickblick.

eclipse hp-cs
paasche D3000R compressor
and iwata hose

300 and still waiting for the shipping quote. going to be around 400 in the end.

Really depends on the needle (and how bad you whack it). Some needles are more brittle or hard or soft, so straitening them out is more or less difficult. Once you start grinding off material from the needle, you change the air flow and performance (unless you are a perfect robot who exactly matches the original taper/curve/angle/texture) so that can be either beneficial or harmful to different guns. A few of the rougher needles benefit from polishing apparently, but others do not, as an example.

Some other shops with good reviews (they're in the states though, finding canadian, online, with good prices is unlikely from what I've seen...check your local brick and mortar though, art and craft shops usually have them...with sales this time of year):

http://www.tcgraphicsandpaint.com

http://www.dickblick.com

http://www.bearair.com/

http://store.midtennhobbies.com/airbrushes-c431.aspx (no Iwata's though)

Shipping a compressor will be expensive, no matter where it ships from.

Edit: almost forgot-

http://coastairbrush.com/

 

[Niranth]

Is a compressor sold for air-brushing that much better? I picked up one with a three gallon tank on sale at the local home improvement store for ~$50 and $15 more for the moisture trap. It is noisy - but with the included hose, I can put it in the closet.

 

[MrPickles]

Is a compressor sold for air-brushing that much better? I picked up one with a three gallon tank on sale at the local home improvement store for ~$50 and $15 more for the moisture trap. It is noisy - but with the included hose, I can put it in the closet.

dunno but i heard those are very loud. its not really an option for me, i often paint late into the night. that would seriously piss people off, including myself.

 

[QuietiManes]

It is mainly the noise and the fact most buyers don't know there are other options that keep "airbrush compressors" selling at such high prices. Air tool compressors, shop compressors, etc, work just as well, if not better, than any airbrush compressor. You may need/want to get a pressure regulator and a moisture trap if there isn't one. The noise can be handled a number of ways, 1>just accept it, 2>move the compressor to another room or the garage or outside and run a long hose back to your work area, 3>build a box around the compressor with a layer of foam then plywood and a couple fans blowing air through the box so it doesn't overheat.

 

[Niranth]

Thank you, QuietManes! I've put mine in a closet. It does not run but once an hour or so.