Airbrush Guide needed (For Minis)

Hellfoot

New member
Hey guys!

I'm interested to start working with an airbrush for my larger scale models. I was wonder if anyone could give me a good online guide to miniature airbrush spraying. Tbh the thing I'm mostly concerned about is the psi required. Because I don't want to buy a big and expensive compressor if I don't require alot of pressure.

Thanks!
 

jabbayoda

New member
First off, I'm relatively new to the airbrush thing, so take all this with a grain of salt. BUT, I am the type to do tons and tons of research before making a purchase, so I feel like I can help.

As for the air pressure, I've read some say that 28-32 psi is the "sweet spot" for airbrushing minis, but I rarely push mine past about 22 or so. If you're doing terrain or vehicles, you can probably get use out of a higher psi. If you're working with minis, I find that anything about 22ish will be too strong and cause the paint to move around on the model. I use a TC-20T air compressor http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/tc20t.html I think I paid maybe $150 ish for it? It's quiet and comes with a tank, moisture trap, and regulator -- all three of which you'll want. Here's the bummer -- it crapped out on me after about 3 weeks. BUT, the company really stands by their product. They sent me another one, and didn't even ask me to return the defective unit. I believe it comes with a 2 year warranty, too, so I feel pretty good about having it for a while.

Stay away from the canned air and pancake compressors. Both wastes of time and money. Some will suggest getting a heavy duty compressor at a hardware shop. They may be cheaper and have more power, but they are significantly louder. I have a really skittish kitty who gets scared of loud noises, and there's no way I could bring a loud air compressor into the house. That's why I went with the "hobby" compressor. A little bit pricier, but way quieter (the cat will even sleep on the recliner about 5 feet away while I airbrush. THAT'S quiet!)

As for airbrushes, there are tons and tons of airbrush guides out there. For minis, they all say the same thing -- internal mix, gravity feed, double action. Get one with all three. A lot of people swear by Iwata, but they're awfully pricey. I got a Paasche Talon that came with three different size needles and nozzles, so I can do relatively small detail work, as well as pretty large things like vehicles or terrain. http://www.amazon.com/Paasche-TG-3F...QA9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314364658&sr=8-1 There are a couple other good brands out there. I like that I can get replacement parts for my Paasche at a local art shop, which is pretty handy.

Also, be sure to get some sort of respirator to protect your lungs. The airbrush will atomize your paint and thinner, and you don't want to breath that stuff in (especially if you thin your paints with Windex, as many do, because the active ingredient that thins the paint is the ammonia). I got this bad boy http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009363G I won't win any style points for wearing it, but it keeps me safe. When I first started using the airbrush, I would skip wearing it for jobs I thought would "just take two seconds." They would inevitably take 10 minutes, and I would start getting headaches from breathing in all those fumes. Headaches stopped when I started wearing the mask religiously. Also, now I can pretend I'm Bane from The Dark Knight Rises.

Don't forget a cleaning station (I got this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VADIVC). It works for two really useful purposes: first, it's a convenient handle for your airbrush. This may seem silly, but you can't just lay your brush flat in the middle of a paint job or the paint will spill out of the cup. Second, it's a way to spray out your excess paint and run some cleaner through it before you move on to the next color. Just stick your gun in the hole (that's what she said) and spray it into the jar. There are also filters on the top of the jar that filter out all the paint fumes.

As far as cleaning the brush goes, you'll want to get some airbrush cleaner. But for big jobs, like cleaning the guck out of the whole gun (which you'll probably only do once in a while), I like the Ultrasonic Cleaner approach. Here's the one I got http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SOQ6KQ Fill it with Simple Green, turn on the ultrasonic thingy, and it will shake all the dried paint out of your gun. I've never tried this, but I bet it would make stripping paint off minis pretty easy, too. But I dunno.

Finally, I cannot recommend eye droppers enough!! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002J0NQCI If you try to drop your paint and thinner directly into your airbrush cup, you're going to run into trouble. First, it's harder to tell if you've thinned it enough (it needs to be thinner than you're used to -- you'll get a feel for it). Second, you'll inevitably be jamming a toothpick or stir stick into the airbrush to mix the thinner and paint. This could bend the needle, which is not good. I recommend mixing up your thinner and paint on your palette (I use one of those cheap-o, 99 cent well palettes from Michael's), then once you're sure it's thinned properly and free of foreign contaminants, you can suck it up with the eye droppers and transfer to your brush. I finally convinced myself to do this after I realized 90% of my clogs came from me taking the shortcut and trying to mix the paint directly in the airbrush. If you take the extra two seconds up front, you'll save yourself a ton of time taking apart your brush and cleaning out the clog.

Anyway, hope this is a good start. Many other painters much more experienced and talented than I am will probably come in and tell me how I'm doing everything wrong, but, like I said, I'm still learning myself!
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Generally, you are shooting Vinyl models and other large scales stuff at between 4 to 20 psi. It all depends on what you are doing: Fogging, basecoating, detailing, etc.

Canned air gets very expensive very fast. You'll be surprised at how little you can get done on a can.

It won't take the cost of many cans to pay for a decent compressor.

I've done several threads on compressors, and a few on larger bottled gas (CO2 or Nitrogen).

(What part of the world are you in? US. try craigslist or Propertyroom)

The only thing I disagree with the above is the comment on pancake compressors. The trick it to find one that runs quiet. It does not matter if it is a pancake, hotdog or upright, but if you shoot much or you shoot fine detail you'll want a compressor with a tank. The tank will cool the air and remove some of the moisture. And more importantly, it will even out the compressor pulse so your air is more consistent. The lower the pressure setting, the more you need a tank.
 
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MAXXxxx

Well-known member
also a relative beginner (I hae my airbrush for the last 3 years, but don't use it all the time, so actual experience is a lot less, than the 3 years would suggest).

I mostly agree with jabbayoda, with a few extras:

airbrush:
- get one that's a good quality and that's supported by a local shop.
- get one that's cheap, I mean those, that are about 20 euros maximum, they come really handy for priming, large areas and sometimes for demos too (you can give it to others to try it, at worst you have to buy another cheap one). For detail work they are not that great, but for a rough highlighting they are more than enough.

cleaning station: they are good for holding the airbrush, but other than that not that much needed. You could always spray the extra in a plastic-bag ('learned' at an airbrush course I took)

thinning: if you don't want too dangerous chemicals the airbrush thinner by vallejo is great (but even then it's worth using a respirator)

cleaning: I absolutely recommend the Vallejo airbrush cleaner. Throughly cleaning my airbrush with it takes about 5-10 minutes at most, 1 kitchen-towel(paper) and 2 qtips.
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Cleaning stations:

I use a office desk type trash can with a half dozen paper towels thrown in it.
The towels absorb the paint and thinner.
As you change colors, throw in a few more paper towels.
When you're done, toss the whole lot.

Q-tips. Be easy with them - use the off-brand that has the hollow plastic tube. You can then just wet the end and pull back on the trigger (no air) and clean the tip. If you release the needle (easy - don't slam it) you can clean any tip dry on the needle too with just a quick spin of the q-tip.
 

Hasdrubal

New member
For basecoating jobs only, you'll need a medium-to large needle. Shoud you want to try out smooth blending with an airbrush (if you expect to use it for larger projects, you know you will at one point), you'll need an airbrush able to atomize the paint well to get the smooth transition of colors. I've got no experience with Paasche material, but the Harder & Steinbeck Evolution 2 in 1 I've been using for 2 years is great. Easy to clean, sturdy enough (for an airbrush), and comes with 0.4 and 0.2 needles allowing for a variety of purposes.

You can use different thinners depending on the stuff you shoot. Tamiya and Gunze paints behave very well with alcohol thinning, don't even try that with Vallejo paints. For the Vallejos, use either their thinner or water. If you're in Europe, check the Lifecolor range, which has plenty of references as well.

Last piece of advice: always filter Vallejo paints to avoid pigments clogging your AB!
 

Einion

New member
Hellfoot, there is a vast amount of info online about airbrushing but if you don't have an airbrush or compressor yet then first thing I would suggest is doing a search here on CMON for all the previous threads on airbrushing since most or all of the input will be related specifically to airbrushing this kind of stuff. There's a huge difference (both in hardware requirements and in methodology) between standard airbrushing of, say tanks and AFVs and small figures. Both can be done with the same AB and compressor, but for some work you need good ones of both which aren't a requirement for simple area-spraying.

As you'll see repeated time and again in previous thread, the paint matters too (and the level of dilution) when it comes to pressure, spraying distance, needle/nozzle type, settings etc.

Einion
 

Hellfoot

New member
Wow!!! Guys thanks alot for your replies. First thing I'm gonna do is get the compressor asap :) The airbrush I was thinking one from the Iwata range. We'll see :) Wednesday is payday and it doesn't seem that it will last very long xD
 
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