Argh...ring around the wash

[AAvH-Darkblade]

Originally posted by finn17
Standard washing up liquid works just as well IMO. You really need a tiny amount, and I mean tiny. 1-2 drops per half-pint.
At these quantities I have ended up eventually buying wetting agent and flow aid, because once bought they last for donkeys years.

I\'ve bought a bottle of Vellejo\'s Thinner for their Model Air and Liquid Acrylic. I find that it thins nicely and keeps the colour consistency of the paint very well. I have yet to try it with inks, but after this discussion I will and see what happens. Will report back.... going to painting table. lol

 

[AAvH-Darkblade]

Tested

Ok ... this worked like a dream. 1 part ink / 3 parts Thinner. Goes on like paint, looks like an even wash. Doesn\'t run and can be \'pooled\' in recesses without rings. Very cool.

 

[finn17]

Nice one Darkblade....

Perhaps we should have an \'experimenters corner\' or thread, where each week someone goes off and tries something new or different before reporting back?

Mind you, thinking about some of the regulars on this site there that could possibly result in a mass banning...lol

 

[AAvH-Darkblade]

Originally posted by finn17
Perhaps we should have an \'experimenters corner\' or thread, where each week someone goes off and tries something new or different before reporting back?

Mind you, thinking about some of the regulars on this site there that could possibly result in a mass banning...lol

Thanks . . . It\'s one of those Saturdays where I should be painting, but keep finding other things to do, ie. read/post on CMON.

lol I think you are right, might also lead to mass injuries. lol \"No, no don\'t mix those ... BOOM!\"

 

[freakinacage]

you can also buy klear in safeway. dunno about anywhere else. i would imagine you would be able to buy it in any well stocked shop. although i wouldnt say it smells of bleach, and i have not tasted it either so can really comment on that

 

[Hiemdal]

I did a load of research into this. But it was a while ago and it\'s hot... so trying to remember is making my head hurt.

From what I remember, Future Wax is made by Johnson Wax. who are an American company who first branched out into England about 90 years ago. Almost all the products are the same on both side of the pond.
Over there they sell Future, over here they sell Klear. I was going to phone up the head office and see if it is the same stuff... but it occured to me that receptionists and salesmen probably wouldn\'t know. It would probably be easier to buy a bottle for a couple of sov and experiment with it. so thats what I did.

I do experiment with all sorts of stuff all the time. The most important test I do is the scratch test. I get a peice of perspex and paint on a square. then when it has been dry for a day, I scratch it with my thumbnail. For example, you would be suprised how a little acrylic extender compromises the paints toughness. It can also cause re-wetting.

I\'d be interested in other peoples experiments.

 

[finn17]

Oh dear, I hope you will forgive me...?

Hiemdal, at the risk of you taking out a contract on my life, I have rather put you on the spot. What you are saying, is far too interesting to be lost in this current thread. I have started another about painting experiments and I wondered if you wouldn\'t mind briefly summarising what you have said over there. Pretty please?
Sorry to put you on the spot, but this is the second time in twenty four hours someone has posted something really interesting that deserves not to get lost.

 

[finn17]

Originally posted by AAvH-Darkblade

Originally posted by finn17
Perhaps we should have an \'experimenters corner\' or thread, where each week someone goes off and tries something new or different before reporting back?

Mind you, thinking about some of the regulars on this site there that could possibly result in a mass banning...lol

Thanks . . . It\'s one of those Saturdays where I should be painting, but keep finding other things to do, ie. read/post on CMON.

lol I think you are right, might also lead to mass injuries. lol \"No, no don\'t mix those ... BOOM!\"

Hey, Darkblade...guess what? Sorry to put you on the spot but these nuggets should not be lost in the deep dark depths of the forums. Hope you don\'t mind????

 

[Hiemdal]

It would be an honour. I\'ll have a think about what my experiments have revealed.

 

[finn17]

Thanks

Originally posted by Hiemdal
It would be an honour. I\'ll have a think about what my experiments have revealed.

Thanks for taking the time. If you have a lot of info, you might want to consider offering up an article? If not, I look forward to your post.

 

[Kitelovesminis]

Hi

Hi everyone what\'s up?Text

 

[Hiemdal]

funny you should say that.
I have noticed across the interweb how many people seem to have problems with spray primer. I was thinking of writing an article because I have a theory...
Then on Friday, I had to show one of my new employees how to use a spray can... he was clueless. Which more or less proved my theory that most spray primer problems are a result of GW failing to print instructions on the side of the can!

 

[finn17]

Hi back.

Welcome to the CMON forums.
I would suggest you have a good look around the site. Check out any articles that interest you and, if you have the technology, post pictures of your painted minis. The forums are (generally) a very friendly place and constructive contributions to the interminable debates we have here are always welcome.:bouncy:

 

[MrMorden]

Wow!

Glad I asked the question, clearly everybody has an opinion on this.

I\'ll be headed to the grocery store in a little while for Future wax and de-ionized/distilled water...hopefully one or both will clear up the issue.

Thanks, ladies and gentlemen!

 

[nejoho]

In my experience the term \'ink wash\' is the route of all its problems, This does not mean that you should bathe your mini\'s in ink. Inks are just another paint in your arsenal, they need to be applied just as carefully as any highlight. try not to overload your brush and paint the recesses carefuly with a couple of thinned coats, this way you get a nice rich colour and you dont have to retouch most of the figure.
Having said that adding a tiny amount of detergent ( washing up liquid will suffice!!) to your water pot always helps break up the surface tention of the water to help with smoother blends

 

[Nomis]

Hands that do dishes................

Anyone who has tried painting Battlefleet gothic minis will probably be aware of the benefit of adding washing up liquid to your paint when painting the bases black.

Normally the paint will not stick to the clear plastic! Even with the additive it still takes multiple coats.

I also think nejoho has the right of it - inks and glazes are just another form of paint- insofar as you are putting on a layer of colour and should be applied with the same care.

 

[Flashman14]

Before you buy anything I think you should just not let the ink pool in the crevices.
Though it is opaque you should really paint it on as you would any other color. For example you wouldn\'t let any other color pool in the cracks right? Same thing here. - the pigment around the edges dries faster than the center which evaporates after leaving the dried out ring behind.

Heh . . I know . . I\'m a crotchety ol\' bastard . . dont need them new fangled thinners and retarders and enhancers . . .

 

[MDL]

all water based washes will do this...

It is because of the properties of water (i.e. surface tension) that causes this. Keep in mind that water is only the vehicle to deliver your pigments. Water will tend to \'bead\' on a surface, and not sit flat, thus mixing up how the pigment mixed into it is distributed. Thus, you will find that the pigment is pushed OUT of the nooks and crannies, to where you don\'t want it.

Inks are water based. Paints are water based. You will have these problems with them, unless your washes are think (which mine aren\'t), or you \'pick up the excess\', so it doesn\'t tint where you don\'t want. However, this means \"HIGH MAINTENANCE\", and that just sucks, b/c you don\'t want to sit around and tend it forever to get it to do what you want.

Though you may have problems with other reactions or chelation in paints due to what is in the water, you will find that you are NOT going to get rid of the surface tension qualities without using something to address this.

Whetting agents (i.e. flowaid, detergents, etc.) break the surface tension, and thus tend to minimize this problem.
I have used whetting agents with great success, as well as non-water based solvents with fantastic results.

I usually have a high concentration whetting agent (even a detergent) that I either dip my brush in then the wash or vice versa. Then I flood the area with a little water if it is too think of color, and pick up the excess with the brush.

I also use enamel solvent washes, which is what many modellers use who use washes, you will find that the solvent and paint sit waaaaaay down in the recesses. I like it. Tend to look MUCH better than ink washes.

Using future = shiny paint, and I don\'t like that. Shadows just shouldn\'t be shiny.

The other thing is just using thinned paint to \'paint\' your shadows, appropriately tinted so it would be the right \'shadow\' for the color you are shading.

If I get around to making some examples, I\'ll post them. It took me a while to figure this out, and now I consider washes a viable technique along with many others to get good effects on a model.

Hope this helps!

 

[finn17]

Good post...

What you said!

(there ought to be some sort of prize for new members who come \'bearing gifts\' rather than asking what colour to paint their Blood Angellollollol)