Arsies preferred paint

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

Greetings all,

I am hoping that someone more knowledgeable of all the members here might tell me what brand of paint Arsies (Javier Gonzalez) prefers to paint with. I might even get lucky enough to have Arsies post himself. I hope you don't mind me asking this question here since Arsies does not allow private messages on the site. I am planning on buying some new paints and have read many many posts on this forum and others regarding "the best" paints to use. I decided I would pick my favorite painters and simply find out what they prefer since I hope to imitate their style. I did find one tutorial on his blog from last year that appeared to use GW paints (I had to use google translate on it and it was not very easy to read). I also LOVE Bragon (I believe he uses Games Workshop) and JMPN (not sure what he uses).

Thanks in advance everyone!

 

[Matt Cexwish]

I know for sure that all of them Use Brushed made from their Own Pubes, maybe they will start selling them if the demand is big enough......

...^_^...

Naaaah......

You can use whatever colour you want, my Friend... They are no Magic Potions that Guarantee a better result, it´s the Talent and Expierence aquired by Daily Exercise that makes them Paint that good... For example, Allan sculpts everything with a Self Cut Wooden Stick... No fancy Dental Tools, no Special GW Tools... Oldschool...

I would recommend starting out with GW since they have a good "stability" and nice Brilliance and add your own Gamon of Vallejo, Vallejo Air, P3, Tamiya and whatever gives you personally the best result...

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

I know for sure that all of them Use Brushed made from their Own Pubes, maybe they will start selling them if the demand is big enough......

...^_^...

Naaaah......

You can use whatever colour you want, my Friend... They are no Magic Potions that Guarantee a better result, it´s the Talent and Expierence aquired by Daily Exercise that makes them Paint that good... For example, Allan sculpts everything with a Self Cut Wooden Stick... No fancy Dental Tools, no Special GW Tools... Oldschool...

I would recommend starting out with GW since they have a good "stability" and nice Brilliance and add your own Gamon of Vallejo, Vallejo Air, P3, Tamiya and whatever gives you personally the best result...

Thanks Matt, I'll be on the lookout for the new Master Series Pube Brushes LOL! I have found that just because someone uses a certain brush or paints that does not mean you can replicate their style I would just like to work on achieving the same colors I'll be spending quite a bit of money on paints and supplies soon and I really don't want to waste it. It appears that many use a mix of GW and Vallejo Model Color so I think that would be money well spent. I already have about 20 different GW paints so perhaps I'll buy a bulk of Vallejo Model Color.

 

[me_in_japan]

I'm hardly an expert, but a few less common paints I would strongly, strongly recommend are Tamiya clear red (when I say less common, I mean less easily found in shops. Everybody and their aunty seems to use it...), Tamiya smoke, any other tamiya clear colours that you fancy (green for slime effects etc.), and also Vallejo Air Metallic paint is the king of metallics. PP do nice paints, too, and two of the more useful ones that GW seem to lack are Coal Black (a dark, dark turquiose, actually) and umbral umber (a dark dark brown).

Other than that, GW stuff is good, particularly the washes (Devlan mud for the win!) and foundation paints.

Hope that helps

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

I'm hardly an expert, but a few less common paints I would strongly, strongly recommend are Tamiya clear red (when I say less common, I mean less easily found in shops. Everybody and their aunty seems to use it...), Tamiya smoke, any other tamiya clear colours that you fancy (green for slime effects etc.), and also Vallejo Air Metallic paint is the king of metallics. PP do nice paints, too, and two of the more useful ones that GW seem to lack are Coal Black (a dark, dark turquiose, actually) and umbral umber (a dark dark brown).

Other than that, GW stuff is good, particularly the washes (Devlan mud for the win!) and foundation paints.

Hope that helps

That actually helps alot I haven't read much about Model Air but I will definitely try them out. I believe my local hobby store carries Tamiya so I will be on the lookout for those you listed. Thanks for the heads up on the PP paints, when I order my Vallejo paints I'll be sure to include those.

 

[RuneBrush]

The Forumla P3 paints are very good, I got a pot of Battlefield Brown and Menoth White Base and have been very impressed with the overall effect. The brown is far browner than GW's scorched brown.

Personally don't go out and buy a bucket load of paint, try a few and then pick one range that you find easy to work with and then "fill-in" any gaps in colour ranges with paints from other ranges. Plus buy paints that you need - I bought two case of VMC and VGC a while ago and have used probably 3 paints in total - a complete waste (and will be selling on ebay soon).

And yes, Model Air metallics are very good

pete.

 

[me_in_japan]

That's a good point by runebrush, actually. Buying paint sets is convenient, but the bigger the set, the more not-very-useful colours you get. If you have access to a games store locally it might be better to just buy what you think you'll need for any given mini at first, and build a collection that way. You can buy em cheap online, too, if you don't mind waiting for delivery.

Oh - another useful thing: Get a bunch of those empty vallejo dropper bottles and transfer all your GW paints into them upon purchase. GW paint pots are badly (deliberately?) designed so that they dry out very easily and need replacing. I used to use all GW paints until a year or so ago, but now I've started using the dropper ones I've really started to dislike the GW design. Oh! and one final thing: put a small object in each of your pots. A ball bearing is common, although I use bits of metal tab that I clip off minis. (no idea if this is a good idea or not.) Anyway - something small, non-reactive (i.e. wont rust) and heavy. It makes a world of difference when you shake your paint pot to mix it.

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

That's a good point by runebrush, actually. Buying paint sets is convenient, but the bigger the set, the more not-very-useful colours you get. If you have access to a games store locally it might be better to just buy what you think you'll need for any given mini at first, and build a collection that way. You can buy em cheap online, too, if you don't mind waiting for delivery.

Oh - another useful thing: Get a bunch of those empty vallejo dropper bottles and transfer all your GW paints into them upon purchase. GW paint pots are badly (deliberately?) designed so that they dry out very easily and need replacing. I used to use all GW paints until a year or so ago, but now I've started using the dropper ones I've really started to dislike the GW design. Oh! and one final thing: put a small object in each of your pots. A ball bearing is common, although I use bits of metal tab that I clip off minis. (no idea if this is a good idea or not.) Anyway - something small, non-reactive (i.e. wont rust) and heavy. It makes a world of difference when you shake your paint pot to mix it.

Thanks rune and me-in-japan. I've decided to order some Vallejo MC and a few P3 to try both out. I'm sure this has been addressed but how in the world do you get all the paint out of of the GW pots into the dropper bottles? I'm envisioning the transfer process and imagine a bit of paint left in the pot and difficult to get out.

I'd love to try something heavier like ball bearings. I've been using glass beads (all my local Michaels had was very small ones) but they don't work that well. I wish I had some pewter sprue pieces to use but since I'm new to the hobby all I have is plastic (I bought one of the GW boxed starter sets a long time ago) and that's about it.

 

[me_in_japan]

When I've transferred the paint over I've (very, very carefully) unscrewed the GW pot lid and poured it out into the Vallejo bottle. This is probly not the safest way to do it. A wee funnel, at least, would help a lot. Once the pouring's done, you are indeed left with plenty of paint in the pot. I generally get an old, soon to be dead, brush, and use it to scoop/sweep the paint into the new bottle. With a brush you can pretty much clean out the pot, more or less. It's fiddly, I'll grant you, but once its done it makes life much easier.

 

[RuneBrush]

As an alternative you can buy dropper bottles from here: Ampulla

I've used them for various bits and bobs and constantly buy 3.5ml plastic paint pots for mixing paint up for my airbrush (at around 9p each they're disposable once you've used them).

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

As an alternative you can buy dropper bottles from here: Ampulla



I've used them for various bits and bobs and constantly buy 3.5ml plastic paint pots for mixing paint up for my airbrush (at around 9p each they're disposable once you've used them).

Thanks for the link Rune I've got a set of 10 ordered already from thewarstore but I'll keep this one bookmarked.

When I've transferred the paint over I've (very, very carefully) unscrewed the GW pot lid and poured it out into the Vallejo bottle. This is probly not the safest way to do it. A wee funnel, at least, would help a lot. Once the pouring's done, you are indeed left with plenty of paint in the pot. I generally get an old, soon to be dead, brush, and use it to scoop/sweep the paint into the new bottle. With a brush you can pretty much clean out the pot, more or less. It's fiddly, I'll grant you, but once its done it makes life much easier.

Thanks for the how-to on transferring the paint. I have a few cheap brushes that should do the trick

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

*Update*

Arsies was kind enough to reply to an email that I sent to him and said that he mainly uses a mixture of Vallejo Model Color (especially their browns, greys, and skin tones) and Games Workshop (for color intensity). He recommends (like other kind folks here) not to limit myself to one paint range and to experiment with what works for me. I thought I'd share this for anyone else who is a huge fan of his and wanted to know what he works with.

 

[Kalidane]

Couldn't find the well known vendor I was looking for but plastic pipettes are cheap and have to be safer than pouring paint from one container to another. Also an easy way to know you've topped up the GW paint with 1ml of water (or special blend extender).

Bead shops are good for glass/ceramic for agitators. From memory 6mm is good and fits the Vallejo style neck.

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

Couldn't find the well known vendor I was looking for but plastic pipettes are cheap and have to be safer than pouring paint from one container to another. Also an easy way to know you've topped up the GW paint with 1ml of water (or special blend extender).

Bead shops are good for glass/ceramic for agitators. From memory 6mm is good and fits the Vallejo style neck.

I did manage to buy some pipettes (not sure how great they are) but I think I'll try them out.

I think there is a fabric store near me that may sell beads so I might check them for the 6mm beads. I'm a bit worried about popping the top off of my vallejo paints (I just received them in the mail ) I've heard horror stories of people loosing the tops and paint going everywhere.

As always thanks for the info!

 

[Dragonsreach]

I'm a bit worried about popping the top off of my vallejo paints I've heard horror stories of people loosing the tops and paint going everywhere.

They are just that "horror" stories. Take a touch of care and time and there's no problem. Unscrew the cap, wait a mo then ease the top out, very rarely you might get a bubble, just don't shake the bottle prior to opening, and keep as upright as possible.

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

They are just that "horror" stories. Take a touch of care and time and there's no problem. Unscrew the cap, wait a mo then ease the top out, very rarely you might get a bubble, just don't shake the bottle prior to opening, and keep as upright as possible.

Thanks for dispelling the rumors. I'll give it a go

 

[Aoroi]

A transfer technique I use: Pour the paint pot into a small kitchen funnel while the funnel is in the new pot. When all the paint is slid down, add a little water to the original paint pot and add a mixing item. Usually a small BB works best IMO. Shake well and pour that into the funnel as well. Cap the new bottle, and if the mixing item fell in, no worries. Shake and enjoy. The paint may seem a little watery, if so leave the cap off for a few minutes. Acrylic paints IMO are pretty renewable, at least GW's are. I had a paint pot from the older pot lines, hard as a rock, about 10 years old. Added a little water, dash of ink as well to help restore pigment (purple or red paint, cant remember) and it recovered well.

I have used BB's and Glass before in my paints to help stir them. They are effective, but with the older paints I have, a bent dime works well in the GW paint pots. Kinda hard to do, but a clamp or 2 pliers works wonders, especially when you do not want to drive to the store. If you use something like this, do not leave it flat, even in the paint the dime could stick to the bottom, then you will not be able to stir.

 

[dogfacedboy uk1]

One tried and tested method for not having paint dry up on you and go to waste is to paint FASTER loL!!! Its something I must learn to do after throwing away many a bottle unused....

dfb

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

A transfer technique I use: Pour the paint pot into a small kitchen funnel while the funnel is in the new pot. When all the paint is slid down, add a little water to the original paint pot and add a mixing item. Usually a small BB works best IMO. Shake well and pour that into the funnel as well. Cap the new bottle, and if the mixing item fell in, no worries. Shake and enjoy. The paint may seem a little watery, if so leave the cap off for a few minutes. Acrylic paints IMO are pretty renewable, at least GW's are. I had a paint pot from the older pot lines, hard as a rock, about 10 years old. Added a little water, dash of ink as well to help restore pigment (purple or red paint, cant remember) and it recovered well.

I have used BB's and Glass before in my paints to help stir them. They are effective, but with the older paints I have, a bent dime works well in the GW paint pots. Kinda hard to do, but a clamp or 2 pliers works wonders, especially when you do not want to drive to the store. If you use something like this, do not leave it flat, even in the paint the dime could stick to the bottom, then you will not be able to stir.

I may have to look for a small kitchen funnel now, thanks! It's encouraging to hear that acrylic is recoverable. I actually have some very old (hard-as-a-brick) GW paints that I was going to throw away (they're about 14 years old) but I'll give this a go just for fun.

One tried and tested method for not having paint dry up on you and go to waste is to paint FASTER loL!!! Its something I must learn to do after throwing away many a bottle unused....

dfb

LOL thanks for the advice but I'm in trouble because I paint pretty darn slow. It's the only way for me to relax and avoid frustration.