Aztek airbrushes

Beelzebrush

Active member
As the fat git in the red coat is doing his merry rounds soon, my mind got to thinking what he may be persuaded to drop in my sock this year.

An Aztek airbrush maybe.... the burning question, however, is are they any good. I seem to remember someone singing their praises some time (a long time probably) ago. So anyone with any experience of said device please feel free to offer your bestest advice.

I do have an old Devilbis airbrush somewhere but I\'m buggered if I know where.
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
I have given away 2 of them.

Pluses: They are easy to clean and the interchangable tips make it easy to get the effect you want. When you tip crash a needle, the interchangable tips are cheaper than most needles.

Minuses: They are not suitable for illistration work (read fine detail). I have yet to get one to work at low pressures, so you are always fighting spidering. The tips are really a pain to get really clean. I learned how to disassemble the tips to get them clean.


If the buget is there, I\'d consider an Paashe VL - this is a tried and true workhorse gun. Interchangable tips and needles make it suitable for most work.

If you got a bit more to spend and are looking for something to do cammo on a titan, consider an Iwata HP-B. I flat love mine.
 

generulpoleaxe

New member
i got recomended this
AB-135A air brush as well as the AB-AS189 Mini Piston type\"0n-demand\" compressor. got a free hose with is as well.
all for just over £130 including postage. :)

from here http://www.everythingairbrush.com/
 

Beelzebrush

Active member
Thanks for the quick reply AH.

I\'m just looking at the Iwata one you mentioned and it seems to tick the boxes I\'d use it for.

Is the paasche one decent for finer details?
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Originally posted by Beelzebrush
Is the paasche one decent for finer details?
With the fine needle and tip, the Paashe VL is fairly fine (about 1 mm) but it is a bottom feed gun, so a minimum amount of air pressure is needed to pull the paint up into the gun.

The Iwata HP (A, B or C) are top feed guns and will run on less pressure for miniumum paint. With the A or B, you can get some very fine lines - about the same as a decent mechanical pencil.

For really tight work (read $$$) consider the Iwata Custom Micron or the Paashe Turbo AB. The CM is a really sweet gun, but I just cannot justify the cost to my hobby. The AB is a whole different approach to airbrushing and has almost no overspray, but is a bear to learn to use. Finn has one, I\'ve been looking for a left-handed one to go on ebay at a decent price.

Consider the cost of the tips (cones) and needles. You will tip crash (hit the tip against the surface) and having a spare is always a good thing to keep on going.

My Vega\'s are about $10 for a needle/cone set vs. about $40 for my HP-B and even more for the CM.

Good sources (at least in the US - sorry)
Bearair.com (ask for a catalogue - lots of good tips)
dixieart.com
pearlpaint.com
 

Einion

New member
Originally posted by Beelzebrush
An Aztek airbrush maybe.... the burning question, however, is are they any good.
Depends on what you want them to do.

What airhead said sums up some of the Aztek\'s strengths and weaknesses but do bear in mind that he\'s not exactly pro-Aztek :D Many of the things we need an airbrush to do an Aztek can do just fine, it\'s just not the \"all things to all people\" brush that it could be (but then neither are most of the competitors it must be said).

You can search CMON under my name here for other stuff I\'ve posted about the Aztek (more in this thread on planetFigure) but let me touch on some of the major points.

Downsides first:
IME also, using acrylics or vinyl paint, you do have to disassemble the tips (like here) to be able to clean them thoroughly; you don\'t have to do this every time you spray but it must be done periodically and the problem can be worse with certain brands than with others. Specific colours can clog more than others too. The makers advise you never do this as you cannot get the tip back together at \"factory settings\" but it\'s really no biggie in practice. Don\'t be under any illusions about how difficult to clean a traditional airbrush design is though - one slip and that\'s the needle gone, often - and the cost of a mistake on your part can be prohibitive with some models.

Azteks, while perfectly capable of fine mists and other subtle spraying techniques, are not really capable of doing consistent fine lines and some other types of really close work (bearing in mind this is partly down to operator skill and compressor quality too). So if that is something you really need your brush to do then they are not the best choice.

Upsides:
If you buy online, and you comparison shop carefully, they\'ll still work out as the cheapest brush for what they give you; multiple nozzles in any of the common sets being the major thing - that price you\'re paying is not for \'one airbrush\'. Example.

The replacement quick-fit colour cups (not built into the airbrush body like many traditional brushes) are also a good feature if you like to move along at a good clip. And although you might not have a need for this feature much you can spray at any angle - including upside down! - because they can be rotated, without any problem of dripping paint or any change in paint feed. This feature now copied by other airbrushes incidentally.

Most of the double-action Azteks can be run in fixed single-action mode, which is good for consistency when production-lining and helpful for the occasional user.

...

As you\'ll also see in one or two prior threads here, brush aside the main cost of moving to airbrushing is often actually the compressor. Any decent compressor is likely to cost at least as much as the airbrush, and could be as much as five times the cost of the brush... well it is if you don\'t pay through the nose for something like a Sotar 20/20 at 420 bucks or an Iwata Custom Micron-B at 350 bucks lol

Einion
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Enion is right, I do not have a lot of love for my old aztecs.

They fill a great nich in the hobby.

If I was just looking for a gun to prime minis, it would be a great choice.

If I was doing terrain where we needed pretty large coverage, spatter effects and decent lines (1/8\" marbleing) it would be a good gun as well.

I do airbrush body/face painting and you cannot push a lot of air with the heavy makeup or it could get blown under the skin and become a tattoo. I could not get the aztec to work for that application.

I also do some t-shirts - the aztec was able to do some of that, but I never could get the paint to completely blow through the fabric like my Vega\'s.

In short, they didn\'t work for what I want to do with an airbrush.


My Vegas will not shoot a real fine line or do illistration either, but they are made to shoot lots of fabric paint (heavy acrylic). They would not be my choice to do a cammo pattern on a GW tank either. That is why I have 8 vegas and an HP-B.
 

TAB Studio

New member
\"The Iwata HP (A, B or C) are top feed guns and will run on less pressure for minimum paint. With the A or B, you can get some very fine lines - about the same as a decent mechanical pencil.\"

I have a Iwata HP-C Plus Dragonforge gave me a link for the eBay store that sold them. highly recommend the seller I will see if I can locate the link soon as I can.

I need more time with the toy it is less convenient then I thought it would be and finding good paint is still hard for me. I need to strain it often.
 

Beelzebrush

Active member
Some great info and tips here. Thanks all!

In hindsight, I think I\'ll skip the aztek. I really want something that is more of an all rounder. I\'m going to skip the Paasche too as I think the bottle for the suction feed looks a bit cumbersome.

Looks like it\'s going to be an Iwata then :D I\'ll have a look at a few sites and try and get my head around the features.

I already have a compressor... it\'s a bit on the big side but I have used it in the past to run my old devilbis.

I\'d also forgotten what a pain it is to clean airbrushes after use. :~(

Thanks again for all your help :beer:
 

TAB Studio

New member
u2u jeff Dragonforge the link I can not find it is worth the time
I think he will still have it cause you can get needles and crowns from this man as well
I have to run to work or I would dig it up for you later if I see you do not have it yet
I will try again
 

Modderrhu

New member
I reckon a really nice all-rounder would be the HP-C. I got a HP-CH, and it\'s my favourite brush to use. The little air control valve under the cup makes air control so easy, it\'s like cheating.

The HP-CS is really nice too, it\'s more robust, and can handle thicker paint, but isn\'t quite up to shooting the same fine detail that a HP-C or CH could. Probably only half the price though.
 

Einion

New member
Originally posted by Beelzebrush
I\'d also forgotten what a pain it is to clean airbrushes after use. :~(
Yeah, the unpublicised aspects of airbrushing:
cleaning can take more time than the painting;
masking can take more time than the painting;
unmasking can take more time than the painting!

Einion
 
J

JakeSh

Guest
Originally posted by airhead

If the buget is there, I\'d consider an Paashe VL - this is a tried and true workhorse gun. Interchangable tips and needles make it suitable for most work.

Another vote for the Paasche VL. I actually use a Millenium version, which is based off the VL.

I would recommend this:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=PAS+MIL-WOOD

Even if it isn\'t what you are looking for, check their other brushes. They usually have great prices, and I\'ve had nothing but good interactions with them.
 
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