Bailey03's WIP

Zab

New member
Yeah I have backed him before. Delivery was as advertised. Got my minis and there was no delay or long winded apology emails :)
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
I've got some more progress to show on the dwarf pirate. I finished off the sleeve and painted the hand holding the sword. I used the same sickly pale mix I did for the face. After that I moved on to the beard and then applied some glazes to the face. Normally I used red, blue, and purple glazes. Since the skin is a bit different, I altered my glazes. I shifted each, so red became two parts red to one part purple, while purple became a 50/50 mix of blue and purple. I did something very similar on the dark elf.

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AndyG

Active member
Coming along very nicely the cooler tones work well with the pale skin. I shall be interested to see how you do the sword.
 

bgcdazzler

New member
Ridiculously good blends, and a great colour palette. I can see why everyone's raving about this characterful little chappy (personally I prefer the samurai).
 

ArchArad

New member
He really is a wonderful little character who is becoming more and more alive as you work on him.

Personally I think that comparing him to the samurai is impossible. They're models that are sculpted with different aims and ideas in mind and your approach to them reflects that. Just my two cents.
 

Maenas

New member
I can clearly see why are you painting this little pirate dwarf.... Samurai seems like a super energy consumer, this one instead seems to do the reverse job a lot less of energy needed but very rewarding because you are giving him lots of charachter (to sum to those of the sculpt).... or at least is what I can think about it Lol

I wouldn't compare them too either, I like them both on their own.
 

KruleBear

Active member
So dumb question (Because it seems so simple), how do you attach the partially painted parts without screwing up the mini. Even when I think I have the perfect prep fit of parts, i seem to screw something up when I connect partially painted limbs.
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
Thanks, everyone.

Maenas, yeah, the dwarf is definitely a nice distraction from the samurai.

ArchArad, I agree. Luckily the samurai and dwarf will be in completely different categories, so no one has to choose between them. And the differences between them are a large part of why I like to paint both historical and fantasy/sci-fi pieces. These projects let me explore very different subjects and approaches to painting. I like having that variation, keeps things fresh!

AndyG, I'm wondering how I'll do the sword too! It's got barnacles sculpted on to it, so I suppose I should make it look rusty and beat up. I was looking at the box art for ideas, but their take on the sword has me scratching my head. They've put verdigris on a white metal. As far as I'm aware, that blue-green effect should work with metals like copper, bronze, and brass. But white metals like steel, iron, etc would rust red instead. I'm looking at some references of items recovered from ship wrecks for ideas. I figure the sword must have been submerged in salt water for quite some time to get all those barnacles on it. So I will try and convey that when I paint the rest of the blade.
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Hmmm... I was thinking I haven't done any overly weathered metals, but then I remembered the saxon helmet I painted last year. The colors here say 'buried in the earth' more than 'lost at sea', but at least it's a place to start.
S09.jpg
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
Sorry, Krule. I didn't see your post.

Seems like I'm attaching partially painted parts on most of my projects. On the part I'm attaching, I tend to paint only what needs painting (portions that won't be accessible once it's attached) and then just give the rest a dark base coat. I try to not use too much glue and always squeeze the glue onto some AL foil and use a tooth pick to apply it to the figure, never going from bottle to figure as you've got far less control. And I expect to do some touch up painting around the seam, though hopefully not too much.

Another thing to be aware of is the fumes from the superglue can leave a residue on the figure, especially if they can get trapped by something like a cape or cloak. The more glue you use, the more likely you'll run into this. When I glue large sections of painted mini together, I'll place the figure in front of a fan while it dries. This should help avoid the problem.

Lastly, if your problem is more about getting the proper positioning of the piece, you can skip the superglue and instead go to a 5 min epoxy glue. You're going to have to find some way to hold the pieces together while the glue dries, but it gives you more time to position the pieces and make fine adjustments before the glue sets.

Hope something in there is helpful!
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
I wanted to let everyone who follows this thread know that they just added one more section of my Painting Realistic Faces class at Adepticon (Saturday, April 2nd). The first two sold out quickly, so if you didn't get a spot and wanted one, now is your chance. It's also worth noting that they've added extra sections for other painters as well. I did a little poking around, Ben Komets has an extra Loaded Brush class and Kirill has an extra Blending with Oils class. There could be more, so if you didn't get into the classes you wanted, it's worth taking a second look.
http://www.adepticon.org/

View attachment 44602
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
Well, when you are ready to travel to one, there will be plenty to choose from. If it were me, I'd go to one of the big European shows. Euro Militaire looks to have way more entries than a show like Crystal Brush. I'm not quite sure what the future holds for Golden Demon, but since you paint a lot of GW stuff, that's another one to consider.

The couple things Crystal Brush has going for it are (a) lovely CMON personalities like BAM and myself (along with many more) =P, (b) lots of painting seminars (I don't think they have these at the big Euro shows, but perhaps I'm wrong), and (c) spiffy cash prizes for the top 3 overall spots. While only 3 people can take advantage of that last benefit, the rest are open to everyone! =)
 

AndyG

Active member
Bailey the seminars sound splendid. Would love to go but money is too tight to mention. On the flip side you really should do Euro millitaire
 

Zab

New member
No no. Bailey, come do a tour in Canada where the dollar is low the beer is cold and the women are warm ;)
 

ten ball

Active member
No no. Come to England where the beer is warm and the woman are cold but we haven't got any bears to eat you up like Canada :)
 

Darthmarsh

Active member
No no. Come to England where the beer is warm and the woman are cold but we haven't got any bears to eat you up like Canada :)

yes come to England, I'll even supply the beer :)

for the pirate sword you could always sand off the barnacles, I think it would actually look better without them
 

KruleBear

Active member
Sorry, Krule. I didn't see your post.

Seems like I'm attaching partially painted parts on most of my projects. On the part I'm attaching, I tend to paint only what needs painting (portions that won't be accessible once it's attached) and then just give the rest a dark base coat. I try to not use too much glue and always squeeze the glue onto some AL foil and use a tooth pick to apply it to the figure, never going from bottle to figure as you've got far less control. And I expect to do some touch up painting around the seam, though hopefully not too much.

Another thing to be aware of is the fumes from the superglue can leave a residue on the figure, especially if they can get trapped by something like a cape or cloak. The more glue you use, the more likely you'll run into this. When I glue large sections of painted mini together, I'll place the figure in front of a fan while it dries. This should help avoid the problem.

Lastly, if your problem is more about getting the proper positioning of the piece, you can skip the superglue and instead go to a 5 min epoxy glue. You're going to have to find some way to hold the pieces together while the glue dries, but it gives you more time to position the pieces and make fine adjustments before the glue sets.

Hope something in there is helpful!

Thanks Bailey, I have been guilty of all those items at some point. Also learned that I was too impatient the time I used 15 minute epoxy. I hust seeing this as being a recurring problem for me when I start tackling the Mierce resin minis and some of the other nice hustorics I have recently purchased. Thanks for the tips...now to find my credit card so I can sign uo for that Adepticon class....
 

SaintToad

New member
The dwarf pirate looks more awesome every time I check CMoN! I cannot wait to see him finished on his base.
Will you be weathering him before you're finished? The box art looks undead, like he's been saying 'arrrr' at the bottom of the see, but yours looks not only alive but sort of a dandy. I only bring it up because I couldn't really see the current figure wielding a rusty, barnacle-encrusted sword.
 
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