Bailey03's WIP

Bailey03

Bailey03

Well-known member
Thanks, everyone!

I was hoping to get some painting done this weekend, but unfortunately it didn't happen. However I still wanted to share a few things with you all. First, I just posted a tutorial on painting tartans over at figurementors: http://figurementors.com/a-step-by-step-for-painting-tartan-patterns. If you've been following this WIP thread or my blog, you've seen some of that tutorial already. However this write up is a bit more indepth that what I've already shared, so it may be worth checking out if you feel like painting some tartan!

Second, I also did a review for a Frankenstein inspired figure from Terrible Kids Stuff (just in time for Halloween too). It's a cool piece that takes the classic monster and places him in the world of DUST. You can find the full review here: http://figurementors.com/kit-review-frank-von-stein-terrible-kids-stuff

Finally, there's another piece from Terrible Kids Stuff that I wanted to bring to everyone's attention. It's a 75mm Goblin Shaman based on the art of Paul Bonner. If you're a fan of fantasy art, most likely you've seen the work of Paul Bonner. If you're not familiar with him but like fantasy stuff, go google his work right now! Anyway, this is a limited edition piece and it's selling out quickly. If you like larger scale figures and fantasy, this is worth taking a look at. Currently there's a discount, so check out this thread for more info:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums...Terrible-Kids-Stuff-New-release-November-2016
 
C

Captain927

New member
Hi Bailey,

Thanks for the link to the SBS tartan. I have an upcoming figure that I have to paint the Black Watch Tartan for both the kilt and Vest. This will definitely come in handy.

Cheers
 
Octavian80

Octavian80

New member
Bailey03 said:
With that done I blended the shadows into the base (image 5). I like to start dark and then gradually blend in the base coat until I'm 100% Rosy Shadow. After that I started to mix in Fair Skin into the Rosy Shadow to create the highlights (image 6).
View attachment 31500
Click to expand...

Hey there Bailey! New to CMON and I've been looking through this thread (dumbstruck and in awe, btw) and I had a question. This is an older post and you have answered this question already. After block in the shadows you say you blend them into the base coat. I'm extremely curious as to how you go about that blending. Are you glazing/juicing? Do you use a similar technique as this SBS for other parts of a figure? Thanks in advance!
 
Bailey03

Bailey03

Well-known member
Thanks, Octavian and welcome to CMON. I work mostly by layering, so the paints are not as transparent as a glaze (though not entirely opaque either). I tend to work from dark to light, just what I'm used to and what makes the most sense to me. So I'll begin with my shadow shade (sketched on over the mid tone) and then layer on a slightly lighter shade and another lighter shade and so on until I get back up to the midtone. I'm focusing my work in the shadows areas, no need to keep painting layers over where the highlights will be at this stage. That's one of the benefit of sketching on the shadows, it shows me where I should be working and what areas I can leave untouched for the time being. When I get to the midtone, I switch over to highlights and start applying those in lighter and lighter layers.

I will do glazing later on in the painting process, but this is mostly to add color variation rather than for regular highlight and shadow blending.


On another topic, I did some minor additional work on the Count Melenth bust. This was actually done a few weeks ago, but I just got around to snapping a photo of it. There were some small adjustments to the OSL and I added some veins on the side of the face. I want to do some more detail work like this (probably not more veins, but some glazes to add color variation and whatever other fine details I think it might need). Here's a photo were you can see the veins on the top side of the head and a little bit along the edge of the jaw.
View attachment 53323
 
Terrafirma

Terrafirma

New member
Awesome paint work as always Bailey ,but this figure reminds me that he should be on an episode of Wallace and Gromit .
 
Octavian80

Octavian80

New member
Thanks for the reply! Oh I see, I think lol. Interesting technique and it obviously works for you. I would be interested to try that out myself sometime, once my skill gets up to that caliber. How thin do you get your paints, if you don't mind my asking?
 
K

Kretcher

Active member
Just some thoughts on Octavians question that I myself have experienced. when I started out I was painting with too thick paint and didnt dilute it at all. Then after a while I almost always used glases and very thin paint. To nowdays when I use a mix of paint straith out of the bottle or tub and down to very thing glases to do color variation, I have found out that there is many ways to get things done :) and all of them is good to know and practises.

This is not an answer to Octavians question just me mumbling on a subject and at the same time hijacking Baileys thread...

/K
 
BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
Well worth the wait for the current photo. Your a magician my dude...you dude the impossible with brush and pallet. Your one of the few amazingly talented artists that does quite frankly equally amazing thing with a brush and models.really amazing.
 
Bailey03

Bailey03

Well-known member
Thanks, all! Octavian, that's a hard question to answer. I guess the best way to describe how thin is to say how many layers/coats are needed for complete coverage. For most of my regular blends, I'd say the colors need 3-4 layers to completely cover up what's underneath. For tough blends like white and skin, I tend towards paint that would need 4 layers. For parts of the figure where I don't need as smooth a result, it's closer to 2-3.

Here's a quick update on the knight. Unfortunately I haven't had much time to work on this piece, so what I've done has been limited to his upper body. Last time I'd did a simple version of the design and then shaded the white background. In doing so, I've gone over the edges of the design, creating a fuzzy look (first image). The next step was to go back over the design and clean up the edges. I also did some highlight and shading on the design to help it fit in with the rest of the figure. Getting the contrast range for the design to match the contrast range for the background color is something I continue to struggle with. So you'll see the dark grey become quite a bit lighter on top of the folds. The last step was to add further detail to the design. You can check back 2 pages in this WIP thread to see the reference I was using. There were a lot of fine details so I went about adding as many as I could.
View attachment 53544View attachment 53545View attachment 53546
And, with a bit of extra hobby time, I took care of the white on the sleeves and upper back of the figure. Now I need to finish off the lower part of his surcoat and come up with a good border design to add around the bottom of the sleeves and the bottom of the surcoat.
 
SaintToad

SaintToad

New member
Good analysis of the issues in matching the "contrast range" of immediately adjacent colors of a single material. I always find your lucid tips both helpful and conceptually interesting!
He's looking very handsome, by the way. Well dressed, at any rate.
 
BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
Very well said and extremely helpful in clearing things up regarding the layering you do. Your not only a talented individual when it comes to painting lead but your methodical yet easy to comprehend explanations give every single hobbyist ways to improve their painting the moment they finish reading your posts. Practical magic!!!;)
 
Bailey03

Bailey03

Well-known member
Thanks, glad you guys found it helpful.

Well, since you can never have too many projects at the same time, I started painting a 70mm Celt from Art Girona. I'm doing this piece for a friend, so I didn't want to wait too long to start (or hopefully finish) the piece. There aren't any deadlines for my personal projects, so I can put those on hold for a bit without causing any problems. This kit is a cool sculpt of a barbarian holding a severed head. The casting leaves a bit to be desired, some pitting that needed to be fixed. I've had similar complaints about the casts on other Art Girona kits I've bought, so I'm not sure I'll buy from them again. But, as I said, it's a cool sculpt so I'll deal.

I wanted to switch up my usual skin mix on this guy to find something hopefully more fitting. Instead of Rosy Shadow for the base, I used a 50/50 mix of Rosy Shadow and Bronzed Shadow. For the shadows, I used 60/40 Chestnut Brown and Basic Dirt along with ~10% of the base color. Some Walnut Brown was added for the deepest shadows. Highlights were a 50/50 mix of Fair Skin and Bronzed Highlight, then some Pure White for the final shine. Using just the Bronzed Skin colors is a bit too extreme for my tastes, but tempering them with the Rosy and Fair Skin colors produced a result I'm happy with. I'll definitely keep it in mind for future projects. So far I've only done shading and highlighting on the face...
Celt02.jpg


For a comparison between my new skin mix and my old one, here are two faces in roughly the same scale. The new face still needs glazes and some further tweaks but, given the subject, I like how the new colors look.
Celt01.jpg
H07.jpg
 
AndyG

AndyG

Active member
Good colour combination there it gives a more tanned appearance. I'd stick with your previous mix for more northern based people like Russians Vikings etc and this mix for Romans celts Spanish.
 
Bailey03

Bailey03

Well-known member
Thanks, Andy. Yeah, I like both skin mixes, but each is better for some subjects than the other. I've experimented a few times to come up with a better tanned skin look. This is my most successful attempt yet.
 
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