Brush Cleaner

devoncodain

New member
I was wondering if any of you guys recommend "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver. If so does it fix brushes back to a good point also or do I need to get something else for that?
 

NobzStudio

New member
It works really well, I also use the 'Pink Soap' brush cleaner for some of the harder to clean brushes. Once clean I can shape the brush and it holds until the next use, well worth the money.
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
I was wondering if any of you guys recommend "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver. If so does it fix brushes back to a good point also or do I need to get something else for that?
Devon; I think part of your answer lies in your question. Being pedantic you shouldn't let your brushes get to the point of needing fixing.

However there are remedies for accidents, which we ALL make.
I tend to clean my brushes after each project, but I have had a couple of DA moments when I've needed to rescue a good brush, worst one was clear varnish that I let dry. (Idiot that I was)
Rinsing a brush in Acetone will break down the adhesion of the paint to the bristles but be careful of Leaving it in acetone too long as this will damage the adhesive in the ferrule, after that careful washing with brush soap and the brush was rescued. (still working today as well.)
 

Einion

New member
devoncodain said:
I was wondering if any of you guys recommend "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver.
Me, no. It's no better in many ways to a bar of common handsoap and as it was originally made for cleaning oil-painting brushes (made from hog bristle) it's easy to imagine that it can actually be a little harsh.

http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30956

devoncodain said:
If so does it fix brushes back to a good point also or do I need to get something else for that?
Often if a brush won't point any longer nothing can be done to fully restore it, depending on why (synthetics won't hold a sharp point over time the way Kolinsky should, ditto with many cheaper sables).

If you're using some quality brushes and they aren't lasting I would also echo DR's comments - prevention is better than cure. Adopt a careful and thorough rinsing procedure and it'll go a long way toward helping maintain 'em.

Einion
 

devoncodain

New member
Thanks guys I was curious because I recently bought a couple brushes at 12 dollars a piece and want to take care of them. I also had some older ones I was curious as to if I could condition them back into shape as I used them for like 5 yrs and they are still good just not as good as they once were.
 

Einion

New member
devoncodain said:
Thanks guys I was curious because I recently bought a couple brushes at 12 dollars a piece and want to take care of them.
Expensive! Even with brushes that are cheaper than this it makes sense to take extra care to ensure they'll do well over the long term.

devoncodain said:
I also had some older ones I was curious as to if I could condition them back into shape as I used them for like 5 yrs and they are still good just not as good as they once were.
Brushes do wear out (the bristles I mean), especially if they're made from natural hair, so it's pretty common for a brush that's a few years old to not be quite as good as it was.

You can resurrect some brushes; it's worth at least trying as even something that looks like a total gonner might be rescued enough for to work for basecoating.

If the brush head is a little dirty down near the ferrule with compacted dried paint (which tends to make the bristles splay because it pushes them apart) it is worth giving them a good cleaning with solvent* and/or with a good wash using soap of some kind. After thorough cleaning it is a good idea to condition them, reforming the point when wet and then putting them aside to dry. It's okay to store them with conditioner in the bristles - just shake it off in your rinse water when you're dampening the brush before you use it next time.

*Alcohol of some kind, screen wash, ammonia or acetone.

Einion
 

In Chigh P.I.

New member
If its exclusively acrylics you use, try methylated spirit. I used to use it but cant anymore because im too tempted to drink it

I echo DR's post though "you shouldn't let your brushes get to the point of needing fixing" Its easily done, just keep a 'dirty water' jar at your painting table as well as your clean water jar, dip & swirl yer brush in that, shape it roughly on the back o yer mit then clean it properly at the end of your painting session

I have never had to use anything more than washing up liquid/dish soap to clean & repoint my brushes. My trusty W&N 000 is almost 3 years old too :)
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Brushes lose points primarily for one reason - they get paint up into the ferrule (the metal piece that holds the bristles).

Paint gets there in several ways:
Overloading your brush. This can be either purely dipping too much paint up or by allowing thin paints to wick up into the ferrule.
Standing your brush vertical with the tip up after you've cleaned it.

The Masters soap (beige container) has lots of lanolin in it. This helps the bristles remain relaxed. It is a good cleaner and I think it is worth the extra bit you pay for it. Wet the brush and drag it across the top of the soap cake a bit. Then in the palm of your hand, swirl it around and work the suds up into the ferrule. Swish well in clean water. Pull it across a paper towel (lay the bristles against the towel with the brush handle up at a slight angle, pull toward the handle). If you see any blackness or paint flakes coming out, repeat. When all you get is a wet towel, allow to dry - I lay my brushes horizontal on a paper towel so that the moisture is pulled out of the brush.

The Masters also make a clear liquid that you can suspend a brush in. This may (not always) get some of that paint out of the ferrule and bring a marginal brush back to usefulness. Use a paper clip or paper clamp and suspend the brush to where the ferrule is just touching the solvent. This stuff is strong and will remove the chrome from the ferrule and the lacquer from the handle.
 
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