Chipped SM Armour

Ulrik

New member
Hey guys,
If you have the CMON painting guide, on page, I'm looking to paint chips like the ones shown there. The instructions, however, are virtually non-existent. Can anybody give me tips for the most in-depth chipped armour? And by in-depth I mean Golden Demon quality. This is for a $900 commission and I've never done too much chipping outside of practicing with my own ideas of how it could work, but I'd prefer to have the correct recipe to practice rather than getting it less than perfect. Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.
 

generulpoleaxe

New member
black paint (only thin a little) rip a piece of sponge of the main part (blister pack sponge is good for this) and wipe off most of the excess.
test on your thumb nail first to ensure your getting the pattern your after and that their isn't too much paint on the sponge.

stipple the area that needs to be chipped, go back with a brush to make some chips larger if need be.

dark brown (mix equal part bestial and scorched) into the upper part of the large chips.
across the lower part of the chips use a very light colour variant of the colour your are working on (white isn't always the best as it fometimes stands out too much) and highlight the lower part.

the older the damage the more likely it is to have started to rust, easiest way to add rust and rain stains is to use blobs of oils and then use a brush with white spirits (mineral spirits) and streak it downwards (the white spirits won't damage the acrylic underneath so if you bollocks it up just load up more white spirits on the brush and clean the area up :D

and practice this shit before you start on that commision piece!

hope it helps.
 

Ulrik

New member
that does help, thanks. i'm def. going to practice before getting to work, especially considering the figs themselves are such a rare treat (http://coolminiornot.com/247601). I saw that tutorial for the sponge method, but the reason I disregarded it at first was because it seemed to yield a different result than I was looking for (I very well may be wrong having never tried it) but this is the kind of chipping i'm talking about. Who knows, maybe your technique for the smaller chips and a different one for the larger ones would yield awesome results. I'm looking for something pretty close to these though:
http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m1350997a_US_BALT2010_Cat01_GoldLrg
and
http://coolminiornot.com/pics/pics13/img497c495919ac7.jpg

thanks for the help man
 

crazyboyae1

New member
the chipping here was done with the foam. a scorced brown and a little black base then shade toward the top with black in each chip and then bleached bone then white highlight. it turned out best on legs and backpac, also after you do foam then you wana go back with brush to make some chips bigger/connect chips together. i was happy with the result and so were the GD judges goodluck dude
 

Ulrik

New member
thanks dude; good job btw. im entering a wolves entry myself next year for single and WG termies for squad. hope to see you there :)
 

Meph

Cat-herder Extraordinaire
For chips with real depth, I'd suggest using a salt weathering technique like i used on my large Forgeworld Marine. Take a look at the link in my signature for pics and explanation.
 

noneedforaname

New member
there is also a article somewhere on here by cyril abati (sp?) which I think is listed as OSL for marine eye's but also covers chipped armour aswell
 

crazyboyae1

New member
thanks dude, yeah i hope i can make it next year, im not sure at this point, but we will see. (@meph what ive seen i feel like salt wethering is good for larger minis but when its a smaller scale then a tank or 90mm its not the optimal way to do it. blister foam makes a finer finish needed for smaller models, also a little more controled) @ulrik i would suggest not doing salt unless its a big model. for those marines your gonna need alot of control.
 

Ulrik

New member
yeah, salt weathering is best for larger stuff. I've blown my mind looking at the FW marine last year and used the salt technique for my badmoon ork vehicles to great results. As for the article noneed mentions, that is precisely the article which has no real detail in the execution of the technique. he says something like 'now for the detail with dark flesh' and papoof! there it is. basically, it just seems like the sponge technique with the refinement of brushes in support of the initial splotches will do the trick. i'm painting up an Imperial Fist to look nice n' rusty/worn, so i'll practice a ton on him (the special edition GW dude with the raised powerfist standing on the broken imperial eagle).
 

jahminis

New member
personally, i prefer to do the chipping on small minis with the brush...
i find the sponge method on a 32mm mini to be a bit heavy...
i like the control that the brush gives me on the size and placement of the chips...

i look forward to seeing what you do with these great sculpts...
they look like a challenge to paint, with all the insane detail...

cheers
jah
 

Ulrik

New member
so, practiced on a very nicely blended imperial fist marine last night and the results were very surprising. I absolutely love the sponge technique; the quality of the chips reminded me very much of that Nurgle terminator lord which was entered into that golden demon winner competition a few years back. thanks man for the advice. also, i found that using gryphonne sepia works very well as a rust stain on yellow armour. the only problem i'm running into is how to use the same weathering on silver. NMM or real metallics. got any advice for that?
thanks
 

generulpoleaxe

New member
Use controlled washes (glazes/juices) for light weathering.
oils are cool for rain stains (put blobs under rivets etc and then load a brush up with turps/mineral spirits and in a nice sweeping motion bring the brush down in one stroke.

dry powder pigments are good for staining as they also create texture (seal with lighter fluid as it's cheaper than the official setting agent)
for rust you can use paint, powder or even real rust. pva and talcom powder works as well as plaster.

check out the vehicle weathering dvds in the cmon store, all of the techniques we use come from the tread heads (they are years ahead on weathering mate.)
 

locutus

New member
Just a noob question but were could i find a related article explaining the sponge technique?/(not familiair with it)
Thanks for the help!
 

Ulrik

New member
well, that's tough about weathering the metals in the fashion of 'light' weathering effects (i.e. subtler effects with rust runs and glazing) is that it doesn't really go with the serious chipping that can be achieved with the sponge technique, especially when in areas of great contact with debris (i.e. I have an eagle on the entire shinguard of this marine and all around it is a crapton of chips... a little discolouration wouldn't really make sense in that context....)

thanks
 
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