commission WIP: Mutated slaanesh Dreadnought
- Thread starter Chrome
- Start date
As this thing is supposed to be dedicated to Slaanesh, I\'d personally prefer classical raptor teeth instead of the shark teeth. Shark teeth always look a bit random to me, with their non-linear positioning, old teeth only hanging on a little piece of flesh before falling off, broken teeth still embedded in flesh...if you ask me, shark teeth would be awesome for some kind of reptilian nurgle monster, but for Slaanesh I\'d go with nice, killy-streamlined classical raptor teeth.
Hey, maybe you could make them look like chrome? A bit bling bling like that could add to the Slaanesh factor.
Hey, maybe you could make them look like chrome? A bit bling bling like that could add to the Slaanesh factor.
And here we have some more scales and features:
The idea we (My customer and I) agreed on was to try a hybrid between the two, several rows of small teeth instead of the \"classic\" set. If it doesn\'t work I will go for the classic raptor teeth. The fangs will stay in both versions though, it is just the teeth in the lower jaw that will get a remake.
The model is intended to count as a dreadnought when done.
Are you people interested in a quick step-by-step tutorial on the scales?
The technique is very easy and takes just a few seconds of trying before mastered even with low modeling skills.
I believe Cassar have already said yes.
And if I do, should I have the tutorial here or should I put it as a \"How to\" in the Conversions section?
Or maybe both?
The idea we (My customer and I) agreed on was to try a hybrid between the two, several rows of small teeth instead of the \"classic\" set. If it doesn\'t work I will go for the classic raptor teeth. The fangs will stay in both versions though, it is just the teeth in the lower jaw that will get a remake.
The model is intended to count as a dreadnought when done.
Are you people interested in a quick step-by-step tutorial on the scales?
The technique is very easy and takes just a few seconds of trying before mastered even with low modeling skills.
I believe Cassar have already said yes.
And if I do, should I have the tutorial here or should I put it as a \"How to\" in the Conversions section?
Or maybe both?
cassar
BALLSCRATCHER
do both then im sure to get the infolol the heads looking really really good the bottom jaw emmm my opinion is do the teeth seperately, possibbly looking as though they were bolted on through the flesh, the alligator scales on the head i cant get over how realistic they look,not even with a big ladder lol. ive a lizard commission to do so any help with the scale issue would be good.
S
Shadzar
Guest
That new head work looks good, and reminded me of what I couldn\'t remember that the original conversion given to you looked like.
The Gobots Zod monster toy. Except with a lot more detail and no wiggle-jump motion with a buton underneath to turn it off(kill it).
It is looking more and more possessed as you go.
The Gobots Zod monster toy. Except with a lot more detail and no wiggle-jump motion with a buton underneath to turn it off(kill it).
It is looking more and more possessed as you go.
mattsterbenz
New member
It\'s like a Juggernaut on crack! Looks awesome.
-Matt
-Matt
I like it, but I think I would choose to make the face a bit more demonic (recess the eyes a bit, angle the \"eyebrows\" a bit to make it look a bit more agressive and give the mouth a bit of a leer or sneer).
As it is now I think the face is a bit too \"animalistic\" - it´s almost too realistic and not chaotic enough.
(and thanks for pimping my thread)
As it is now I think the face is a bit too \"animalistic\" - it´s almost too realistic and not chaotic enough.
(and thanks for pimping my thread
)I think you are right, the face do need more exaggerated features to look more chaos. But to do so I believe I will have to stray from the snake/lizard theme I use at the moment and add some mammal features into the mix...
And your thread is well worth lurking! You\'re doing a great job and it is inspiring.
And your thread is well worth lurking! You\'re doing a great job and it is inspiring.
freakinacage
Well-known member
i wouldn\'t necessarily go for anything recognisable. make it look bestial, as if it is emerging from the machine itself
S
Shadzar
Guest
You can still recognize some of the face-panels formt he chaos vehicle accessories as faces trying to push through the metal. But these would be lesser entities possessing the vehicles, and this thing has taken it over and changed it to be the vessel to carry it in this world. So being able to be seen what it is, isn\'t too far off an idea.
Maybe just making the animalistic parts still showing signs that they DID push out of the vehicle to possess it would be the thing to do. Full animal on the edges, but bend metal where it is still folding out of the dread so you get the fill of both control from and restraint of the demon that is possessing it.
Things that make working with green stuff a bit easier?
Well, I could do with saying that you need a lot of practice, but that comment is always so redundant. Of course it takes practice, everything does.
1. Vary the ratio of blue and yellow. Do not be afraid to experiment with other than the normal 50/50 ratio. If it is a bit too sticky for your taste, add more blue. If it feels that it is not responding well or is hard to shape? Add more yellow.
2. Always wet your tools. No matter if you use oil, water, saliva or ear wax( I know how it sounds but apparently a lot of people actually use it). In my opinion household oil(go for olive, it tastes better. lol) is the best way to go, you need to clean the green afterwards for the next layer to stick proper but you do not need to wet the tool quite as often as when you use water or saliva, where you get the old rhythm \"water - touch - water - touch - water\" and so on going.
3. If you are making a piece that needs finely tuned details, wait a while after kneading. Just add the basic shape and let it cure for 10-15 min and then start with the details. That way the tools stick a lot less as well. Nothing is more irritating than when you\'re finally satisfied with the second eye, does the finishing touches and everything just sticks because you forgot something.
4. Patience is a virtue, never sculpt if you are stressed out or tired, you won\'t be at your best, you will make mistakes and you will hate yourself for it.
If the piece is rather big, do it in steps. add a patch there, a rough shape here... Then wait for it to cure before adding anything else. Go for a two-hour walk or something, clear your head and get back to it when you have a firm ground to stand on. Remember: take your time. Speed will come when you feel more secure with the medium, it is never a good idea to rush it.
Hope it helps! Cheers!
Well, I could do with saying that you need a lot of practice, but that comment is always so redundant. Of course it takes practice, everything does.
1. Vary the ratio of blue and yellow. Do not be afraid to experiment with other than the normal 50/50 ratio. If it is a bit too sticky for your taste, add more blue. If it feels that it is not responding well or is hard to shape? Add more yellow.
2. Always wet your tools. No matter if you use oil, water, saliva or ear wax( I know how it sounds but apparently a lot of people actually use it). In my opinion household oil(go for olive, it tastes better. lol) is the best way to go, you need to clean the green afterwards for the next layer to stick proper but you do not need to wet the tool quite as often as when you use water or saliva, where you get the old rhythm \"water - touch - water - touch - water\" and so on going.
3. If you are making a piece that needs finely tuned details, wait a while after kneading. Just add the basic shape and let it cure for 10-15 min and then start with the details. That way the tools stick a lot less as well. Nothing is more irritating than when you\'re finally satisfied with the second eye, does the finishing touches and everything just sticks because you forgot something.
4. Patience is a virtue, never sculpt if you are stressed out or tired, you won\'t be at your best, you will make mistakes and you will hate yourself for it.
If the piece is rather big, do it in steps. add a patch there, a rough shape here... Then wait for it to cure before adding anything else. Go for a two-hour walk or something, clear your head and get back to it when you have a firm ground to stand on. Remember: take your time. Speed will come when you feel more secure with the medium, it is never a good idea to rush it.
Hope it helps! Cheers!
cleen X
New member
Thanks Of course it takes a lot of pratice but some tips and tricks can do a lot
How much smoother does the painting become when you thin you paints for example
About the horns.
Short horns maybe? It\'s Undivided right?
The only undivided daemons I was able to find were spawns, these have short horns, many short horns, like there spine is horned or something? Just some thoughts
Of course it takes a lot of pratice but some tips and tricks can do a lot How much smoother does the painting become when you thin you paints for example
About the horns.
Short horns maybe? It\'s Undivided right?
The only undivided daemons I was able to find were spawns, these have short horns, many short horns, like there spine is horned or something? Just some thoughts
