cutting my paints down?
- Thread starter jdmchaos
- Start date
Friar
Dorks for Orks
yup just straight up standard future floor polish
I put some in my water dropper bottle, unfortuantly I have no idea the ratio I got as it came out a whole lot faster then I thought it would. But it has made a noticable difference with my paints the just seem generally easier to work with.
I put some in my water dropper bottle, unfortuantly I have no idea the ratio I got as it came out a whole lot faster then I thought it would. But it has made a noticable difference with my paints the just seem generally easier to work with.
Shawn R. L.
New member
Could you explain what the difference was? Better flow? Longer workability????
Beelzebrush
Active member
Originally posted by DaN
What\'s the British equivalent to this stuff?
I\'ve heard a lot about it, but never seen it over here.
I don\'t wanna try importing it and getting arrested for terrorism like that Australian fella
This stuff - Johnsons Klear. You should get it from most supermarkets.
From what I hear it\'s supposed to help with flow and managing transparency. It\'s basically just a glossy acrylic gel with no pigment. We have some in the cleaning supplies closet, but I don\'t feel the need to mess with it.
Obviously it adds a bit of shine to your models, which I don\'t like.
Obviously it adds a bit of shine to your models, which I don\'t like.
Friar
Dorks for Orks
Better flow, cut down on the chalky effect a few colors gave, I use rms paints and pale lichen was a b*tch this has made a noticable difference for some reason or nother the pale greens have this tendancy to go chalky, no problems with blues, reds, purples, browns, yellows just the bloody green and of course I use green more then any color for some reason. No extension in drying time. All in all it\'s just made the paints less fussy like they are happy to cooperate now lol. Also and I spose it\'s the sealant properties of the wax but if I\'m painting some lil detail and get a spot on a finished part it\'s easier to clean of with a wet junk brush, still gotta be carefull but I have yet to rub off a previously done layer since I introduced this stuff also have had less instances of paint rubbing off (I use a medicine bottle and cork to hold put sometime I use a finge to steady a piece for lil details had a few rubs from that before)
S
Shadzar
Guest
ever seen a ring on a coffee table?
you know there was a pool of coffee there, so why only a ring left?
why none in the middle of the pool left to stain?
water tension. as the coffee evaporates the water tension leaves the ring as the outer edge is where the \"pigment\" was pulled to.
like paint this could easily happen to a mini when thinned down with water. sometime this may be what you want for certain applications. other times for covering areas you need that pigment in the middle of the pool.
the future floor wax is a high/semi-gloss acrylic. for acryllic paints its just pretty much a thinner that will reduce the amount of pigment to medium and only give a bit of shine. thus as it is not water it will not suffer formt he effects of water tension and leaving the rings and it doesn\'t break down the paints and seperate the pigment from the medium.
it does come out about as quick as if it was water, and mine smells like grape for some reason, but is still clear. so all in all it helps the paint as one of the expensive flow mediums would, but costs a LOT less. you just need to dullcote the parts you dont want to have any shine when done.
IF you add this directly to a GW paint pot there is a chance as it dries it will get hard like it does on a floor, so use sparingly. the good part is that it dries just as hard on the mini and seals/protects as you paint, so should require less effort such as gloss coating or sealing prior to a final dullcote finish for minis.
now if only i knew how to paint half as good as i understand this floor wax use in painting. lol
you know there was a pool of coffee there, so why only a ring left?
why none in the middle of the pool left to stain?
water tension. as the coffee evaporates the water tension leaves the ring as the outer edge is where the \"pigment\" was pulled to.
like paint this could easily happen to a mini when thinned down with water. sometime this may be what you want for certain applications. other times for covering areas you need that pigment in the middle of the pool.
the future floor wax is a high/semi-gloss acrylic. for acryllic paints its just pretty much a thinner that will reduce the amount of pigment to medium and only give a bit of shine. thus as it is not water it will not suffer formt he effects of water tension and leaving the rings and it doesn\'t break down the paints and seperate the pigment from the medium.
it does come out about as quick as if it was water, and mine smells like grape for some reason, but is still clear. so all in all it helps the paint as one of the expensive flow mediums would, but costs a LOT less. you just need to dullcote the parts you dont want to have any shine when done.
IF you add this directly to a GW paint pot there is a chance as it dries it will get hard like it does on a floor, so use sparingly. the good part is that it dries just as hard on the mini and seals/protects as you paint, so should require less effort such as gloss coating or sealing prior to a final dullcote finish for minis.
now if only i knew how to paint half as good as i understand this floor wax use in painting. lol
Thunderhawker
New member
I use 4:1 water:future.
yes me too i usevellejo paints and some gw.but i just gave it a go i bought some future about 30 min ago and i see what you guys mean it is pretty cool.so now i have anouther question,have any of you tryed the nmm gold style and do you know a good sight to see somebody use it i.e a video.
airhead
Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Find a friend with contacts. They are always going through saline bottles. Get one from them (or they are cheap enough, buy a new one). Empty. Pop the little dropper off - carefully and save it. Rinse all the saline out of the bottle.
Refill with magic wash (search magic wash and find as many recipies as painters).
3 parts distilled or deionized water
1 part floor finish
or I use:
a. 1 oz flow aid
b. 1 oz retarder
c. 5 oz water, glazing medium, or airbrush medium
Adjust your flow aid and retarder as needed. Here in FL, I use more retarder in the summer unless it is really humid.
Refill with magic wash (search magic wash and find as many recipies as painters).
3 parts distilled or deionized water
1 part floor finish
or I use:
a. 1 oz flow aid
b. 1 oz retarder
c. 5 oz water, glazing medium, or airbrush medium
Adjust your flow aid and retarder as needed. Here in FL, I use more retarder in the summer unless it is really humid.
