CyAniDe's WIPs
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CyAniDe
New member
Thanks guys, glad you like him 
I flooded the base with blood. Some mistakes were made though -.-
1. Tamiya Gloss Red is not Tamiya Clear Red -.-
2. Large amounts of Tamiya paints need longer drying times then expected ^^
The color could be fixed with tamiya clear red but it didn't really dry like a pool of blood ... it created craters -.-
I tried to fill the with GW Blood for the Bloodgod but the craters still remain :/
Is there a trick I don't know about to get a level, lake like surface? It should be fully dry by now since I haven't touched it for a week. Should I just flood it with Clear Red or "Blood for the Bloodgod" again?
Speacial thanks to GW for the great paint names ... why not call it " Blood of Slaughtered Enemy of the Bloodgood that sits on a Throne made of Skulls kindly contributed by mentioned Enemies" ? Surely nobody would ever copy a paint name again... -.-
I flooded the base with blood. Some mistakes were made though -.-
1. Tamiya Gloss Red is not Tamiya Clear Red -.-
2. Large amounts of Tamiya paints need longer drying times then expected ^^
The color could be fixed with tamiya clear red but it didn't really dry like a pool of blood ... it created craters -.-
I tried to fill the with GW Blood for the Bloodgod but the craters still remain :/
Is there a trick I don't know about to get a level, lake like surface? It should be fully dry by now since I haven't touched it for a week. Should I just flood it with Clear Red or "Blood for the Bloodgod" again?
Speacial thanks to GW for the great paint names ... why not call it " Blood of Slaughtered Enemy of the Bloodgood that sits on a Throne made of Skulls kindly contributed by mentioned Enemies" ? Surely nobody would ever copy a paint name again... -.-
CyAniDe
New member
Finished Khoghos Khul this weekend. I filled the craters with more BftBg. I'll order a bigger display stand next week but the Mini itself is finished
Here is a slightly bigger picture. Upload to the gallery was limited to 4000x4000px and somehow linking to imgur didn't work -.-
Here is a slightly bigger picture. Upload to the gallery was limited to 4000x4000px and somehow linking to imgur didn't work -.-
CyAniDe
New member
Voting is active now:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/462213
http://www.coolminiornot.com/462213
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Done -first thin I did when I woke up
CyAniDe
New member
Started a new project today. My first "big" bust. The print didn't turn out that great but it's good enough to paint it
Inspiration/template: Ciri by mmasclans (amazing piece)
https://www.puttyandpaint.com/projects/25204
as well as digital artworks:
https://i.imgur.com/6Gqni7L.png
https://i.imgur.com/q1kssSD.png
These are the results after the first sketches in oils:
Inspiration/template: Ciri by mmasclans (amazing piece)
https://www.puttyandpaint.com/projects/25204
as well as digital artworks:
https://i.imgur.com/6Gqni7L.png
https://i.imgur.com/q1kssSD.png
These are the results after the first sketches in oils:
CyAniDe
New member
Some more progress on the bust yesterday. I think the contrast goes in the right direction?
Trying to give her a more agressive look by painting some wrinkles to the browline. Since she's drawing her sword I think her eyes expression is too relaxed. But maybe she's just facing a mudcrab xD
Trying to give her a more agressive look by painting some wrinkles to the browline. Since she's drawing her sword I think her eyes expression is too relaxed. But maybe she's just facing a mudcrab xD
OffTheSprue
New member
Nice thread Cyanide, you got some nice minis painted here.
I am intrigued to see how the bust comes out! looks good so far.
Ive been painting a 'Khalgrim Gunnarson' as a display piece, will post pics when finished.
I am intrigued to see how the bust comes out! looks good so far.
Ive been painting a 'Khalgrim Gunnarson' as a display piece, will post pics when finished.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Model looks great -I live the lighting situation and her look dies look in point with worry in an self defense manner -I usdually dint huge feedback being it’s your model and your eye and I’m certain you know how to paint a model as you do very beutiful work. To me that shading is a bit off and looks like it might need to extend down a bit into the shading near her chest areas. It’s a soft edge -not a hard edge- a hard edge would have light falling off onto a dark shade but this is a slight downward bend which should face and blend in softy and a little further down. Your using a zenithal source which looks good everywhere except that chest area/ if you still intend to address this than disregard this feedback- I have instead a picture of what I’m saying to show .
CyAniDe
New member
Thanks for the great critique!
I'm quite new to these larger scales so I still need to figure out hav to adjust the value contrast to make it look interesting but also avoid it looking wierd^^
I'm not really sure if I got you right, do mean the shadow below the collarbone is to dark ? or the highlight on the collarbone to strong?
I try to orientate myself on this great piece from Marc Masclans: https://www.puttyandpaint.com/projects/25204
The shadows in his version are very drastic and I'm not brave enough to block them in with nearly black. But as a reference it's quite useful since his hard shadows make it easy to see how he defines the shapes and where he puts the shadows.
I should probably get myself a printer to print out my inspiration templates. I study them on the PC, try to memorize, then roll over to my painting section but during painting I catch myself thinking less about the template and doing more and more what "I believe to know" ^^
The light should come from her left but still from a high angle and more or less diffused. Hence the dioginal cast shadow of the chin down the neck and the larger/deeper shadows on her right half of the face.
The collarbone is quite pronounced on the sculpt and his version as well as the forehad -> to which I'll have to look into as well again one the oil layer is dry.
But I'll definetly look into the collarbone and the chest shadow again so thanks a lot for the hint that something is off there.
I also tried to fix the printline running across her arm with PVA glue. It's now shiny as hell but I hope it worked ^^
Also thanks Chris for the motivating words
When I threw her over accidantly a couple days ago I was stating to believe that the project was maybe cursed. The paint on her nosetip chipped off but I think I could fix it quite well by filling the hole with thicker oil paint and blended it out a bit.
I'm quite new to these larger scales so I still need to figure out hav to adjust the value contrast to make it look interesting but also avoid it looking wierd^^
I'm not really sure if I got you right, do mean the shadow below the collarbone is to dark ? or the highlight on the collarbone to strong?
I try to orientate myself on this great piece from Marc Masclans: https://www.puttyandpaint.com/projects/25204
The shadows in his version are very drastic and I'm not brave enough to block them in with nearly black. But as a reference it's quite useful since his hard shadows make it easy to see how he defines the shapes and where he puts the shadows.
I should probably get myself a printer to print out my inspiration templates. I study them on the PC, try to memorize, then roll over to my painting section but during painting I catch myself thinking less about the template and doing more and more what "I believe to know" ^^
The light should come from her left but still from a high angle and more or less diffused. Hence the dioginal cast shadow of the chin down the neck and the larger/deeper shadows on her right half of the face.
The collarbone is quite pronounced on the sculpt and his version as well as the forehad -> to which I'll have to look into as well again one the oil layer is dry.
But I'll definetly look into the collarbone and the chest shadow again so thanks a lot for the hint that something is off there.
I also tried to fix the printline running across her arm with PVA glue. It's now shiny as hell but I hope it worked ^^
Also thanks Chris for the motivating words
When I threw her over accidantly a couple days ago I was stating to believe that the project was maybe cursed. The paint on her nosetip chipped off but I think I could fix it quite well by filling the hole with thicker oil paint and blended it out a bit.
CyAniDe
New member
Another 6-7 year old WIP finished. I missed to make a picture of the WIP state it was a couple days ago -.-
I painted mainly the rocket, the arms and reworked the leather parts and face. I testet out some new paints (Liquitex Acrylic Gouache) so the model was a good candidate. When I started it I used a lot of Airbrush. The Yellow shoulder pads and the shield on the front of the rocket were done with airbrush hence the clean look. But I kinda still liked it so I didn't retouch it. The challenge was to paint the little wings on the rocket in the same way using the new paints and try to hit the tones. I think it worked out quite well.
The rest was painted quite fast for my standards. In general I try to get much faster using more opaque paints and consistencys but more mixtures and a more limited palette. I used opaque layers to define the shapes and stippling to create textures. Over that I glaced quite satturated colors to keep the overall saturated more comic style look.
Tell me what you think about the photos. My Camera stand arrived and I got 2 video lights to light the mini from the sides. My painting lamp lights from above and I got a 4th lamp from the front/below. Since he's tilted forwards quite a bit all the body would be in deep shadow without the light below. Also found out my camera could do 12MP and was preset to 8MP -.- ^^
I painted mainly the rocket, the arms and reworked the leather parts and face. I testet out some new paints (Liquitex Acrylic Gouache) so the model was a good candidate. When I started it I used a lot of Airbrush. The Yellow shoulder pads and the shield on the front of the rocket were done with airbrush hence the clean look. But I kinda still liked it so I didn't retouch it. The challenge was to paint the little wings on the rocket in the same way using the new paints and try to hit the tones. I think it worked out quite well.
The rest was painted quite fast for my standards. In general I try to get much faster using more opaque paints and consistencys but more mixtures and a more limited palette. I used opaque layers to define the shapes and stippling to create textures. Over that I glaced quite satturated colors to keep the overall saturated more comic style look.
Tell me what you think about the photos. My Camera stand arrived and I got 2 video lights to light the mini from the sides. My painting lamp lights from above and I got a 4th lamp from the front/below. Since he's tilted forwards quite a bit all the body would be in deep shadow without the light below. Also found out my camera could do 12MP and was preset to 8MP -.- ^^
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Nice vivid colors - beautiful .
CyAniDe
New member
Thank you Guys, glad you like him
Here another testmini I tryed various new paints on. Started with Schmincke and Lascaux Artist Acrylics, then moved on to Liquitex Acrylic Gouache. It's very matte but also got a bit chalky so I painted anohter layer with oils over the acrylic foundation.
Also got some Acrylic Gouache from Turner. They are more opaque then Liquitex, even more matte and the colors have a bit more chroma. But I ordered some "regular" Gouache paints as well. They aren't water resistant after drying though and can be reactivated with water. So you have to be careful with layering and especially glazing to not rub off the underlaying layer. Coverage is insane and they leave a super matte finish. It's a good idea to work from thin to thick to build up layers to not disturb the previous layers. A bit like with oils (fat over lean) although for a different reason.
Here another testmini I tryed various new paints on. Started with Schmincke and Lascaux Artist Acrylics, then moved on to Liquitex Acrylic Gouache. It's very matte but also got a bit chalky so I painted anohter layer with oils over the acrylic foundation.
Also got some Acrylic Gouache from Turner. They are more opaque then Liquitex, even more matte and the colors have a bit more chroma. But I ordered some "regular" Gouache paints as well. They aren't water resistant after drying though and can be reactivated with water. So you have to be careful with layering and especially glazing to not rub off the underlaying layer. Coverage is insane and they leave a super matte finish. It's a good idea to work from thin to thick to build up layers to not disturb the previous layers. A bit like with oils (fat over lean) although for a different reason.
Last edited:
CyAniDe
New member
Thanks a lot *blush*
But with oils it's actually not that hard. You can work the transitions for hours by either mixing colors directly on the mini(or canvas^^) or feather them out. With acrylics it really hard and you have to be super fast. Wet in wet with acrylics is nowhere near as controlled as with oils. Feathering is more practical with acrylics but due to the fast drying time also way more stressful and can quickly become stainy. Also the oil colors have way more depth and especially the transparent tones are way more vibrant then any acrylic. Inks are more compareable when it comes to intensity and vibrancy. It's a more complicated medium at the beginning and needs some practice to get used to but when you start to figure out how they behave they offer a lot of advantages when it comes to blending.
The blends on the vampire (acrylics+gouache) are much rougher but I like that roughness for NMMs. With oils I tend to overblend metals and loose a lot of contrast. With acrylics I tend to work more with opaque layers and more mixes on the palette. I loose a good amount of smoothness but gain more speed in return. Also I think this approach meets the advantages of acrylics since I use the fast drying time and water resistance of the underlaying layers. With oils I get a mess when I try to layer another paint over a still active (wet) underlayer. You can work around that (like James Wappel shows) with dilutions but I'm far away of the point where I can control that.
But with oils it's actually not that hard. You can work the transitions for hours by either mixing colors directly on the mini(or canvas^^) or feather them out. With acrylics it really hard and you have to be super fast. Wet in wet with acrylics is nowhere near as controlled as with oils. Feathering is more practical with acrylics but due to the fast drying time also way more stressful and can quickly become stainy. Also the oil colors have way more depth and especially the transparent tones are way more vibrant then any acrylic. Inks are more compareable when it comes to intensity and vibrancy. It's a more complicated medium at the beginning and needs some practice to get used to but when you start to figure out how they behave they offer a lot of advantages when it comes to blending.
The blends on the vampire (acrylics+gouache) are much rougher but I like that roughness for NMMs. With oils I tend to overblend metals and loose a lot of contrast. With acrylics I tend to work more with opaque layers and more mixes on the palette. I loose a good amount of smoothness but gain more speed in return. Also I think this approach meets the advantages of acrylics since I use the fast drying time and water resistance of the underlaying layers. With oils I get a mess when I try to layer another paint over a still active (wet) underlayer. You can work around that (like James Wappel shows) with dilutions but I'm far away of the point where I can control that.
