hubbabubba
New member
Can any one enlighten me as to the dipped method?Ref:http://www.coolminiornot.com/134212
dipped method??
- Thread starter hubbabubba
- Start date
generulpoleaxe
New member
dipping leads to the darkside.
a path that tempts you with easily gained rewards.
a painter needs not these things.
a path that tempts you with easily gained rewards.
a painter needs not these things.
generulpoleaxe
New member
in all fairness it allows people to get armies done quickly.
they look okay on the table as well.
they look okay on the table as well.
vincegamer
Active member
I can\'t seem to find where it was listed what color stain to use.
I went to buy some, to try this out and for staining wood for a different project, but was daunted by the variety of stains.
I went to buy some, to try this out and for staining wood for a different project, but was daunted by the variety of stains.
hubbabubba
New member
I thing it looks alright for gaming, have any of you actually tried it yourselves, sound kinda haphazard.
T
Temporary Sanity
Guest
It\'s easier to brush thinned stain (thin it with Mineral Spirits) than to dip and shake. Use a brush you don\'t care about either, cuz it\'ll get beat up.
I\'ve done it for some quick paint jobs on some D&D mini\'s, and it turned out surprisingly well. Not to be done for display quality figures, though.
I\'ve done it for some quick paint jobs on some D&D mini\'s, and it turned out surprisingly well. Not to be done for display quality figures, though.
Method information in the U.S.A.
Hey guys ...
I talked to the gentleman that posted the dipping stuff in Warseer. He and I talked about it to a great length before I tried it. I wanted to make sure it was done right and that I wouldn\'t have any issue\'s.
The stain I used is made by Minwax. I used their water based stain, English Oak color. You can get it at any Menards or Home Depot store.
I used it on my Dryads and it looked good enough for me. I used it on my Eldar Rangers with an idea to paint the cloaks afterwards .... I\'m tempted to leave them be.
I also used it on some other things just to see what it looks like. The process is actually EASY to do. You just need to come up with a process that allows you to do it in comfort. Otherwise you end up with sore joints after dipping 30 some figs in one sitting.
I found that the water based Minwax is EXCELLENT. It doesn\'t smell. will dry fast even though you really should let it sit over night. And most important ... it DOESN\'T SMELL!!!! So you can dip indoors in the middle of winter and not get high.
I\'m getting ready to start painting and dipping my high elves. Just need to see how the dip sits on the horses before I commit myself to it. Going to be dipping my first test subject soon.
Hope this helps.
Hey guys ...
I talked to the gentleman that posted the dipping stuff in Warseer. He and I talked about it to a great length before I tried it. I wanted to make sure it was done right and that I wouldn\'t have any issue\'s.
The stain I used is made by Minwax. I used their water based stain, English Oak color. You can get it at any Menards or Home Depot store.
I used it on my Dryads and it looked good enough for me. I used it on my Eldar Rangers with an idea to paint the cloaks afterwards .... I\'m tempted to leave them be.
I also used it on some other things just to see what it looks like. The process is actually EASY to do. You just need to come up with a process that allows you to do it in comfort. Otherwise you end up with sore joints after dipping 30 some figs in one sitting.
I found that the water based Minwax is EXCELLENT. It doesn\'t smell. will dry fast even though you really should let it sit over night. And most important ... it DOESN\'T SMELL!!!! So you can dip indoors in the middle of winter and not get high.
I\'m getting ready to start painting and dipping my high elves. Just need to see how the dip sits on the horses before I commit myself to it. Going to be dipping my first test subject soon.
Hope this helps.
hubbabubba
New member
Thanks, let us see some pics of your results, especially on the rangers
war0827
New member
Like Temporary Sanity said, the dipping method is best when brushed on and is thinned down with mineral spirits. The only other thing about dipping (depending on what color you use). For example, I use Minwax Polyshades Antique walnut and the model needs to be painted one shade brighter than what I want the final result to be.
I dip my figures that are for table top, but I can\'t dip everything. Flat surfaces such as marines work well, but as good as natrual looking models. example: dryads, nurgle, kroot, etc.
I\'ll post up pics later tonight of what my nurgle demon prince looks like. I spent about 1 and 1/2 hours painting base coats and color variations, then dipped. Waited for it to dry and matte varnished it.
I dip my figures that are for table top, but I can\'t dip everything. Flat surfaces such as marines work well, but as good as natrual looking models. example: dryads, nurgle, kroot, etc.
I\'ll post up pics later tonight of what my nurgle demon prince looks like. I spent about 1 and 1/2 hours painting base coats and color variations, then dipped. Waited for it to dry and matte varnished it.
hubbabubba
New member
Actually looks really good, gives it a kinda golden, autumn feel, like it\'s been lit at the \'golden hour\' (magical hour or so of sun light just after dawn and just before dusk, used by many flm makers painters photographers due to golden quality of light)
Being as the stains are almost always a brown colour, I can\'t imagine what the efect would be like on colours from a different spectrum such as blues and purples, you wouldn\'t happen to have any more photos lying around would you
Being as the stains are almost always a brown colour, I can\'t imagine what the efect would be like on colours from a different spectrum such as blues and purples, you wouldn\'t happen to have any more photos lying around would you
war0827
New member
Oh, one other thing. You\'ll notice that the salamander is very shiny. That\'s because I didn\'t matte varnish him yet. The skink was varnished.
You\'ll also notice that once varnished, the boltgun metal looks sort of NMM (on skink). If you base coat with Boltgun and highlight it with lighter shades of metal, dip, then matte, you\'ll get a blended NMM. Just a cheat for you....
You\'ll also notice that once varnished, the boltgun metal looks sort of NMM (on skink). If you base coat with Boltgun and highlight it with lighter shades of metal, dip, then matte, you\'ll get a blended NMM. Just a cheat for you....
hubbabubba
New member
Yeah I agree Matty. I think probably cause war knows what he\'s doing with it.
Thanks for that War, I\'ve still got 40+ Ultramarine grunts to get painted, would you reccomend it on ultra marineblue or would some other mid tone be better I guess? Also what colour stain would you recommend,the antique walnut you used with the skink?
Thanks again.
Thanks for that War, I\'ve still got 40+ Ultramarine grunts to get painted, would you reccomend it on ultra marineblue or would some other mid tone be better I guess? Also what colour stain would you recommend,the antique walnut you used with the skink?
Thanks again.
war0827
New member
Actually I used tutor stain on the skink. It\'s a really really dark brown that looks black. I had a hard time finding it, but when i did, well worth it. The tutor should be used for blues. The antique walnut can be used for all others.
For your Ultra\'s, I highly recommend using tutor stain if you can find it. The skink was painted ice blue and the scales were painted enchanted blue. I\'ll give you a step by step for the Ultra\'s.
1) Prime the model desired with WHITE primer. The dipping method works best with white primer for some reason. Besides, if you miss a spot and it\'s still white before you dip, it\'ll turn brown and like a blended shade after it\'s dipped.
2)Base coat the entire model the color you desire. I would definately use enchanted blue instead of ultra blue. Paint all base coats. Even boltgun metal, eyes, EVERYTHING.
3) Shake minwax can well, mix about 2:1 ratio of minwax:mineral spirits (breaks down the wax to make it thinner. once thinned out, it\'ll flow more easily into the areas you want)
4) Apply the wax using an old brush you don\'t care for anymore. Or just buy some cheap synthetic brushes that you won\'t mind throwing away after use. Just paint on the dip like you would paint ink wash.
5) Wait about 5-10 minutes and slowly go back to the model and slowly suck up pools of dip until desired affect(of course using the brush you would throw away).
6) Wait 24 hours to cure, then matte varnish.
I should really do a tutorial thing. I\'ll do one as soon as I have another mini ready and post up the step by step process with pics. Enjoy.....
For your Ultra\'s, I highly recommend using tutor stain if you can find it. The skink was painted ice blue and the scales were painted enchanted blue. I\'ll give you a step by step for the Ultra\'s.
1) Prime the model desired with WHITE primer. The dipping method works best with white primer for some reason. Besides, if you miss a spot and it\'s still white before you dip, it\'ll turn brown and like a blended shade after it\'s dipped.
2)Base coat the entire model the color you desire. I would definately use enchanted blue instead of ultra blue. Paint all base coats. Even boltgun metal, eyes, EVERYTHING.
3) Shake minwax can well, mix about 2:1 ratio of minwax:mineral spirits (breaks down the wax to make it thinner. once thinned out, it\'ll flow more easily into the areas you want)
4) Apply the wax using an old brush you don\'t care for anymore. Or just buy some cheap synthetic brushes that you won\'t mind throwing away after use. Just paint on the dip like you would paint ink wash.
5) Wait about 5-10 minutes and slowly go back to the model and slowly suck up pools of dip until desired affect(of course using the brush you would throw away).
6) Wait 24 hours to cure, then matte varnish.
I should really do a tutorial thing. I\'ll do one as soon as I have another mini ready and post up the step by step process with pics. Enjoy.....
