Dudemeister's never ending WIP

Hulkbuster Update.

Finally got the paint I was waiting for. I had a few different options before me, including transparent red that gets layered over a bright silver. The challenge was getting the same color depth consistency over many separate pieces. In my search for a good color I found a good automotive paint solution: Dupli-Color Dark Cherry for GM cars.

This is a darker Metallic red that matches the red on my Sideshow Iron Man statue. The question was what primer to use. I tested the Citadel Chaos Black and the Armory Black primers, but the red was just too dark, then I tested it Army Painter Uniform Gray, which is like a 50% grey , and it was still a bit dark. I then came across Citadel Seer Grey, which is pretty light grey, I'd say about 20%. 2 coats of Dark Cherry over this primer, does the trick. It has the depth and a beautiful metallic sheen, without any visible metallic flakes. The other advantage it dries in seconds.

So here is a color test of the Hulkbuster's left forearm and Iron Man himself. The gold and silver are Vallejo's Liquid series metallics, which are alcohol based, dry super fast and have excellent opacity. The only other thing is some Citadel Nuln Oil shading to bring out the details. The arm is not yet finished, but I though it would be cool to post a progress photo.

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gorb

New member
Looks awesome! I love me some cherry red metallics. I've tried to cheat it in the past by using red ink over a silver tmm surface, but the effect is lacking depth.
How thick is the Duplicolor? Will it obscure details on minis easily?
 
Dupli-Color is super thin, it's almost like a super-fine lacquer, but I was told it's some kind of urethane. One nice thing about it is that you can paint over it with acrylics, and if you screw up, you can wipe it off with water or alcohol, and it doesn't seem to affect the Dupli-Color surface at all. Quite happy with it.
 

gorb

New member
Awesome! Sounds perfect. I'll check it out. The Dupli color paints seem to be pretty great, I've got some Filler Primer and it kicks everything else to the curb - goes on super smooth.
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
- carve a large chunk out of the model and add a battery and a switch into it.
- carve out the repulsor part, add a led and cover it with a clear part.

:)

alternative:
- AB the area with a very light red
- AB lighter and lighter red, then yellow concentrating on the repulsor part
- AB/Paint the repulsor white with a hint of color, and the middle part with pure white
- line highlight the edges of the illuminated parts with a light color to simulate glares/reflections.

(instead of red-yellow you could try blue (for blueish color)-purple (red armor + blue light), no idea if it is better or worse. More in the face than the red-yellow light)


if you google it, the official models done it the fast way:
- repulsor Airbrushed with a blue to white transition (middle part white, edges light blue), done.
 
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Here is another progress photo. Iron man's body is done. Well almost, I still need to work on the Arc reactor and the repulsors, and maybe a little bit of highlighting on the gun metal parts. But I think the wet look of the Dark Cherry Red is too cool not to show off. I had painted the head as well, and them I got this idea that I was going to dry it faster by using a hairdrier. Bad Idea... the head exploded, literally split wide open, most likely gas pressure forming inside it, since it's hollow. So I have to reprint that one.

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Today I finally finished printing all the pieces that make up this diorama, so I had to assemble it to get a preview of what it will look like. So this is what more than 3 liters of resin looks like, nearly 2 of those going into the base itself. But it really looks cool.

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gorb

New member
That does look fantastic! Sorry about the exploding head, but it looks like the second one is just fine.
3 litres of resin... that sounds like a lot, what is the physical size of this beast of a model?
 
Iron Man himself is 8.25" from the tip of his toe to the top of his head. When it's assembled as you see it in the photos, it's about 16.75" in height, and as wide as 15.5" depending on where you measure it.
 
Hmmm, technically, it's supposed to be 1/8 scale. The original model was 1/4 scale, and I had to reduce it 50% to be able to fit some of the parts on my printer. So I did some math, and it turns out that it's about 1/8.5 scale, assuming Iron Man is 5' 10", which is about Robert Downey Jr's height (he's 5' 9")
 
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Getting there...

The problem now, is that the beast doesn't fit in the indentations on the base. It might be the way I glued the legs in place, whatever it is, I now have this problem. If I fit the right fist and knee into the base, the left leg doesn't touch the base at all, it's about 1/4" above the base . Not sure what to do next. Taking the Hulkbuster body apart is no longer possible, and the only thing I can think of, is building up the rock he rests his left foot on.

Oh well...

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bgcdazzler

New member
Looks awesome so far.

It's probably easier to mess around with the ground than the suit, so I'd cut the main chunk off under his left foot and then blue-tac it to the foot. This will show you the gap left over, which you can fill with miliput and/or filler. It doesn't matter if the join is messy in places – it's broken ground!
 
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