Dying Fimo
- Thread starter Springbok
- Start date
Shawn R. L.
New member
What is your purpose in wanting to color it?
I've taken a felt pen to a wad of 2 part putty to add a tint to it with no problems. I mixed the two parts together, scribbled all over it, then mixed it up again and it had a slight color. You might try doing that with a small piece of fimo and just see what it does.
I've taken a felt pen to a wad of 2 part putty to add a tint to it with no problems. I mixed the two parts together, scribbled all over it, then mixed it up again and it had a slight color. You might try doing that with a small piece of fimo and just see what it does.
Shawn R. L.
New member
Thanks mate.. it was just to get a bit of colour involved when sculpting parts onto others.. just to make it easier to see
That's exactly what I found it handy for.:brushwave:
mickc22
Granddad!
You could also ask the peeps over at the Elvenwork Forum
generulpoleaxe
New member
or just buy a few different colours.
mickc22
Granddad!
This is the reply I got from Katherine Dewey
"If you mean alter the color before modeling, water based pigments cause some interesting reactions as the water turns to steam when baking. Heat set, polymer paints (Genesis and D'uva) are compatible but their liquidity does soften the working consistency of the clay. It's possible oil paints (including water mixable oils, without water) would also prove compatible but that the linseed and safflower oils could cause significant darkening when baked. Permanent pigments (dry or liquid) are another option for changing the color. Some alcohol based inks (Ranger makes some) have also proven compatible as pre modeling colorants.
When it comes to coloring the surface of the clay before and after baking, all of the above mentioned types of paints work well.
Hope this helps,
Katherine"
as she say's
hope this helps
"If you mean alter the color before modeling, water based pigments cause some interesting reactions as the water turns to steam when baking. Heat set, polymer paints (Genesis and D'uva) are compatible but their liquidity does soften the working consistency of the clay. It's possible oil paints (including water mixable oils, without water) would also prove compatible but that the linseed and safflower oils could cause significant darkening when baked. Permanent pigments (dry or liquid) are another option for changing the color. Some alcohol based inks (Ranger makes some) have also proven compatible as pre modeling colorants.
When it comes to coloring the surface of the clay before and after baking, all of the above mentioned types of paints work well.
Hope this helps,
Katherine"
as she say's
hope this helps
