Ebonbuddha
Active member
Have you guys every used earth magnets on your 40K miniatures? What size do you use for a dreadnought?
Earth magnets.
- Thread starter Ebonbuddha
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QuietiManes
New member
If you mean rare earth magnets, I've used them. I can't tell you what size to get because it depends on several factors. What are you magnetizing (you said Dread, but weapons, arms, waist, etc)? Will it be twisting or physically blocked and therefore no need for extra magnet strength to prevent it? How heavy and how far is the weight from the pivot point (metal or plastic, etc)? Will you use 2 magnets (one on each side/piece) or 1 magnet and 1 metal pin/plate on the other side OR 2 sets of 2 magnets to prevent twisting?
In general, you're only limited by the size of the model pieces involved. If you let us know more specifics on what you're magnetizing there should be lots of people who can let you know what they used and how well it worked.
In general, you're only limited by the size of the model pieces involved. If you let us know more specifics on what you're magnetizing there should be lots of people who can let you know what they used and how well it worked.
Ebonbuddha
Active member
Thanks Bloodhowl. I want to place my hand to hand weapon and weapon arm on the plastic dreadnoughts that were smashed in the moved. I am trying to avoid buying new models.
Bloodhowl
Active member
I pulled an unfinished Dread (old GW metal Bjorn the Fell-Handed)out of storage and measured it. The magnet is 5mm diameter by 1mm thick. I cut off the metal post that was there and glued the magnet on with super glue. I bought the weapons arms from Forge World and had to enlarge the holes slightly with a drill bit to get the magnets to fit. Pictured here is original metal assault cannon as I can't find my FW bits at the moment
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me_in_japan
New member
I find with dread arms it can help a lot if you pin/magnetise them. Just magnetise as Bloodhowl suggested, and drill a couple of pinning holes. Glue the pins into just the arms, but allow them to slot into the main body. Basically, the magnet holds the piece on, the pins stop it from spinning around, and bear most of the weight.
There is actually a magnet in there, it's just at the bottom of the hole so it's hard to see.
There is actually a magnet in there, it's just at the bottom of the hole so it's hard to see.
QuietiManes
New member
You can use a bunch of smaller magnets if you want it to be able to twist but hold in position. You just put the magnets in a circle, 4 or 6 or 8 or so, then you've got 90, 60, 45 degrees of rotation you can do that will hold in place. Or you can do a central pin with a single magnet on one side and several magnets on the other...or a pair of magnets as per the usual with a stabilizing pin and several holes...
Also, arm rotation is over rated. ")
Also, arm rotation is over rated. ")
Ebonbuddha
Active member
This is becoming an interesting thread. Thanks to everyone who replied. I was originally going to cut the plastic pin and glue the magnets onto the model. I never considered placing it inside the hole.
KruleBear
Active member
Search for magenets on miniatures on YouTube and you will find good info. One give three different recommended sizes and their application. Another shows installation on tyranids that I found informative.@ MIJ ..I like the slotted pin concept. I wish I woud have known about magnets before I hard connected my Warjacks arms...it would have simplified painting. Question...I have some TOR Relics Nuem Dedicatus that have a plate the covers the face / cockpit. I think it would be nice to have the option of installing and removing it. The plate is very thin and I m not sure how I would install magnets. And can I paint over the ones on the body, so they are not seen with the hatch off and yet still work to hold the hatch if installed?
QuietiManes
New member
If it's not see-through you can just glue the magnet to the inside, where ever it works. You'd only need one to hold it, with a couple pins (most likely, not familiar with that model).
Likewise, you don't need to put magnets in the plate. Put the magnets in the body and just glue metal pins (wire, paperclip, needle, etc) in the plate. You can do multiple pins in a line or bend the pin into a "U" shape to increase the "magnetic area contact" (I.E. to increase the pull strength) if needed.
Paint shouldn't affect the magnet much, but it will wear off fairly quick (especially if you don't use a good primer) and if you start layering varnish on top to protect the paint, it can reduce the strength of the magnet if it starts to get thick. As much as about half the pull at 1mm distance, so keep that in mind, although most of the time it's easy overcompensate for that.
KruleBear
Active member
Now that is a simple but elegant solution! Makes me feel stupid for not thinking of it
. I was considering cutting a washer type ring to attach to the plate and just put the magenets in the body cavity, but I like this idea better. After all, what do I care how the back looks. Now I need to get home this weekend and try it out. Thanks for the response QuitiManes.
Good thread Ebonbuddha!
