Fairy Power Spray

Rugne

New member
After hearing from several sources just how good this stuff was, I decided to give it a try.
The first thing I did was go rummaging for a piece of old crap that it wouldn't matter if it all went horribly, horribly wrong.

I introduce to you, a mark one rhino chassis, in order to date it, I can tell you that It's made of that yellowish tan plastic they used to use and it was originally one of the crayola launcher whirlwinds, purchased when they first came out.

Where the exhausts went, I have no idea, they were always a bit delicate.

As you can see, it suffered from an over abundance of eagerness, and a decided lack of actual restraint or ability.
Although I wish I knew how on earth I achieved that bright red.

SAM_0236.jpg


So, the damage already being done, I set it on it's side, and applied lashings of Fairy Power Spray and waited an hour.

After an hour, I gave it it's first scrub, I made some progress, but sadly have no pictures of that stage.
I was amazed to see this paint shifting at all, so I gave it anouther couple of sprays, hour at a time, rinse and repeat.

Eventually, I achieved this.

SAM_0237.jpg


As you can see, the black spray, or whatever it was I used way back then, has pretty much stained the plastic a darker shade then it was.

In conclusion, I'm very pleased with the results the spray has achieved, however there can be a fair amount of elbow grease involved in removing paint of this age and condition, I tried it with a much more recently painted model, and the results were much more immediate, hower the recesses still needed to be cleaned out with a toothpick or small tool of some description.

Pros
Non-toxic,
Low Odour,
Easy to dispose of,( just rinse off down the drain)
Relatively quick,
Doesn't appear to soften or harm plastic.

Cons
Can be slow, depending on the age/thickness of the paint
Odour(While low, can still be annoying)
Can require multiple applications and plenty of elbow grease.
Spray tends to crystallise into a clear gunk on the model.


All in all, I'm rather pleased with the effectiveness of the spray and would recommend it to anyone that was trying to save or recover an old plastic model they either painted previously or got from some third party.

Of course it's not as effective as more caustic substances, but all in all, a valuable tool to have available in your work.

On a side note, it also seems to be safe on forgeworld resin.

Hope someone finds this useful.

Marc
 

Rugne

New member
As an addendum, fairy power spray is apparently also knowen as Dawn Power Dissolver outside of this damp and rainy isle.

Marc
 

Einion

New member
Thanks for the demo Marc :good:

One thing, this should not be considered non toxic. Not that one has to panic or anything, but it's like with something like bleach which is safe in its intended purpose, but you do still have to use with appropriate caution - it's very important with a product like this to be careful about not getting any into your eyes.

For anyone that wants to look it up, the link to the MSDS can be found here.

The active ingredients for anyone who wants to look them up individually are:
(C10-C16) Alkyldimethyamine oxides, CAS 70592-80-2, 1-5 %
Ethanolamine, CAS 141-43-5, 1-5 %
Phenoxyethanol, CAS 122-99-6, 5-10 %
Potassium carbonate, CAS 584-08-7, 1-5 %
Sodium hydroxide, CAS 1310-73-2, <1%

Einion
 

Rugne

New member
Yes, don't use it for eyewash, it's to be treated with as much respect as other chemicals, but compared to something like paint stripper, I would definitly feel comfortable saying it has a much lower level of toxicity.

Marc
 

Donga

Active member
Fairy powerspray is a good alternative to dettol, it's about the same price for a bottle too!

Less smelly too ;)
 

Rugne

New member
In Sweden, it's known as Yes Power Spray, it's in identical packaging apart from the name and a different logo. In the US I've found it as Dawn Direct foam, I imagine that would be the same for Canada,but I'm not really in a position to check either :D

Marc
 
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BPI

New member
Hi Rugne, the con of the gunk you mention. I've just taken that to mean that there's no point leaving it any longer, still seems to foam up with a wet toothbrush. Does that match your test? Unsightly but not a problem would be my reading :)

With the deeper recesses of metal minis (and the fact they tend to gather more of my paint) I think there'll always be that annoying toothpick moment on any figure. The paint does seem to come out as a plasticy blob rather than breaking up into tiny fragments that just get scraped around though. I don't know how other products affect the paint to compare with though. Again, is that what you found?

Cheers, B.
 

Rugne

New member
Well, when I was talking about the gunk, I wasn't really saying there is no point to leaving it on longer, but there doesn't really seem to be any difference in it's effectiveness whether it's on for one hour or twelve, at least, not enough to justify the added time, especially considering that the instructions on the back say ten to 30 minutes.

It does tend to come off in blobs and streaks, but it's not quite as elastic as I've found it to be after acetone thinners, but when I'm scrubbing it with a toothbrush or a larger brush, I've found that the particles seem to just disintegrate, rather then come off as an identifiable lump.

Dettol, also tends to act in a very similar fashion to acetone thinners.

However, the paint will reset after a rinse if you leave it too long, so if your going to do the toothpick dance, do it quickly.
If you have more questions, I'll be happy to answer them.

Marc
 
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BPI

New member
"...but it's not quite as elastic as I've found it to be after acetone thinners"

"Dettol, also tends to act in a very similar fashion to acetone thinners."

Thanks Rugne, I think that does it :) Cheers, B.
 

Chrome

New member
Got the will and time to do a test about the effect on various putties? GS, brown stuff, magic sculp... you get the idea.
 

Rugne

New member
Got the will and time to do a test about the effect on various putties? GS, brown stuff, magic sculp... you get the idea.

I have got the will and time to do it, what I lack is any actual sculpting ability. So that one will, I think, be left in more skilful hands then my own.

My next comparison is going to be between the GW foundation paints and the Vallejo extra Opaques.

Marc
 

Chrome

New member
Well, a blob or two, primed and splashed should be efficient to see how much of what gets dissolved and whatnots. :D
 

Rugne

New member
Not really, a blob is a blob is a blob, no fine details on it to see if it melts them, lol.

Marc
 

Chrome

New member
lol, No shape difference no, but usually they get a different 'surface', just like paint exposed to 'real' thinners get oily and rubbery
 

Donga

Active member
I've stripped sculpts/conversions with Fairy Power spray with no ill effects. That's included GS, Miliput and Supersculpey.

Safe on putty would be the outcome.

;)
 

Wyrmypops

New member
Cheers for the nod to this product. Picked some up on the recommendation.

All the reboxing/tidying I've come across loads of ancient mini's slathered in ropey paint jobs. Figured a bit of this could net me at least a few bits for the bitsbox.

Works better than I expected. Only tried it on some metal figs so far, but the paint came off with minimal effort and ain't loosened any glue nor knackered the base. Looks like I'll have some unpainted plastic Marines and Impy Guard circa 1980's when I get round squirting the gunk on 'em. :victory:
 

Rugne

New member
I've since tried it on some RTB01's I got at a car boot, took the paint off them lovely.

Marc
 
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