Favorite size brush & liquid primer help

[the.hedge.wizards]

What is your favorite brush and size to do each phase of your minis.
I just became aware of a 0/30 and I now might be able to do the eyes with-out using the carb cleaner or I am going to drown this ugly mini move.
I have become worried about spray primer I get the a speckled pattren that is hard to cover even when careful could mine be getting old or do the liquids I see work better?

 

[kittykat23uk]

I think this has been discussed before but I use a 3-0 for fine detail and a size 1 for the majority of the rest. IO have a few larger brushes for basecoating larger areas, but the majority of my painting is done with the above.

Spray primer can be temperamental. I use sprays and get varied results, but I fiond that spraying fairly close to the model helps.

Regards

Kat

 

[wiccanpony]

what I\'m happy with

I\'m using a W&N 00 brush for most of my painting now, and I do like the brush on primer from Vallejo over the spray..a couple of thin coats and I\'m ready to go, without having to wait until I have enough minis cleaned to make it worth my while dragging everything outside to spray.

 

[airhead]

I have fallen in love with my Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes. I use a 3-0 and a #1.

I also use a Prinston 20-0 (number 3050R) for eyes along with Micron pens.

I have been happy with my krylon grey primer. (spray can).

 

[the.hedge.wizards]

I know it is most likely annoying and I am sure it has been asked before.
I need to investigate the Query options on the postings then I won\'t bother you as much but, if there is something new you all have found I would not know. I would not have found the tiny brushes but for the fact of the new web site needs.

I have been happy with my krylon grey primer. (spray can).

I have not thought to try this brand it is easy to get as well. I will try a closer can also, I backed off cause I was worried about losing detail, you are right Kat, I am too far away now.
Also thanks for the liquid primer name.

You all seem to have less shake to your hands and more control with your brush. I have the pens and use them but if the point is too small outlining scratches the paint off. I often have too much come out for the pupil and it runs as well. Oh yes the many reasons I stick to Dragons large surface area
I also saw an article here about a glue called PCV? or something close to that I can not find it by that name the closest thing I found was Polyurethane ultimate glue...weird stuff..
I played with it a night for base use like water or what have you.
I then noticed a chemical reaction going on as it set, lots of small bubbles. I was bored yet mildly amused so... I droped in some fake snow (pasty stuff). The stuff did the coolest contortions overnight (I will post a photo on at later time) but I do not think this is the stuff the article mentioned for water effects, is it?

Thank you all for your time

 

[G-nome]

My favourite brush is a 2. Any old 2 will do
I know its got a black handle and is nylon or synthetic anyway. I mostly paint units and nearly armies so the fine detail is not so important and with a decent point you can still get all the details you need out of it anyway.
I think you mean PVC often used for gluing wood together white and thick but dries clear. not sure about the brand you mentioned but I\'m sure it shouldnt be bubbling.

 

[kittykat23uk]

@ The Hedge Wizards

You seem fairly new to the mini-painting scene, so heres a few tips.

The glue you speak of is PVA (wood glue)and it is a white glue. I believe it is called Elmers in the US. We do indeed use it for some water bases, but having said that I use a woodland scenics product called \"water effects\". This looks like PVA but is thicker and you can sculpt it a bit, whereas PVA is quite runny. PVA is generally used for flocking bases. If you mix it with woodland scenics snow, you can make some really nice snowy bases.

Other glues I use are Superglue (cyanoacrylate) which most people use for sticking miniatures together. I generally use this in combination with drilling and pinning (where you drill a hole in each of the parts of the mini and pin them together using a piece of wire) and the majority of the join I cover in 2-part 5- minute epoxy resin (araldite rapid in the UK). I normally put this araldite in the middle and a few small dabs of super glue around the edge. The superglue holds the piece in place and the Araldite creates a very strong bond. But you have to be careful that the araldite and superglue don\'t touch because the superglue reacts and instantly hardens in contact with the epoxy.

For filling gaps I use greenstuff (also called Kneadatite). You can also use milliput which is a 2-part epoxy putty. I am allergic to the fine grade stuff so don\'t tend to use it any more.

My ands also shake, but its just something I have had to live with.

Hope this helps!

Regards

Kat

 

[airhead]

Originally posted by the.hedge.wizards
... I backed off cause I was worried about losing detail...

Distance is not as important as moveing the can across the fig as you spray. Start off of the fig, spray across it, the finish off of the fig. Right to left or left to right doesn\'t matter.

You all seem to have less shake to your hands and more control with your brush....

Lay off of the caffene (sodas/coffee). Use a painting stooge (I glue my minis to the top of a paint bottle with a drop of superglue) Hold the stooge with your off hand and paint with your main hand (obvious?). The real trick when doing eyes, etc. is to prop your forearms against the edge of the desk when you paint. This seems to steady me a lot.

I have the pens and use them but if the point is too small outlining scratches the paint off...

I still struggle with micron pens. The trick is make sure your paint is dry (at least overnight) use a light touch. Possibly an interclear (krylon crystal clear or clearcoat) in the area to give it a harder surface.

Read the \"articles\" area. Lots of good tips there that really helped my painting. Remember that all of us started once, so feel free to ask questions. That is the real purpose of these boards.