I think the highlights should be taken further. Shadows look fine to me, but you could go darker in just a few key spots for maximum tonal variation.
In terms of the palette of colours you're using, if you're getting the results you want that's what's important. I would suggest you put out less paint since oil paint goes so far, and of course there's zero risk of it drying on the palette so you don't have to put out any excess like you might working with acrylics (when not using a stay-wet palette).
Good news then, you don't need to clearcoat acrylic-type paints to apply oils on top*. If you want to do the reverse it's not absolutely necessary either, although it could well be helpful (depends on how the oils dry as well as additives in the acrylics).
*People do this partly for security, partly where the 'open' surface of the acrylic paint will hinder a specific technique they want to do with the oils, but for basic work definitely try the oil paint applied straight on top and see how it goes.
Einion
Thank you Einion, I have put more highlights later on, see below pictures. For the amount of paint I took it directly from the tubes, that's true it is too much, so small amount is required!
I try to improve the technique and blending. I have put some mid tones on the trousers and in my NMM, is it something which makes sense compared than acrylics? I have foudn that using a type of dry (oily) brushing in the mid-tones add a slight coloration which is quite interesting, is it something usually done?
Thats really to short a drying time, although it depends on pigment I like at least 3 days at 70F and up to a week for some of the other colors, thats just the nature of the beast.
To the Op, off to a great start my only suggestions are this, first try not to overblend, ideally you want to really only feather the edges of the highlight, this can take practice. Second you need to watch how much paint you are putting on and make sure it doesn't form clumps on the model, I can see 2 of them on the shoulder where the oil paint wasn't properly blended in. Other then that great start and don't be afraid to really push the contrast, remember what looks crazy hippie contrast wet will be subtle dry.
More help for you later, right now the screen is blury from lack of sleep.
Thank you Wombat, I normally let it dry longer. I have many projects going on so I have time to let it dry before applying varnish or another layer.
Actually there is no clumps, I think it is on the model itself, maybe bad cleaning. I used a so small amount of paint on my brush that it cannot form clumps.
I would like to have more definition about what you call overblend? I have the impression I am overblending then it looks like dull with lighter color a bit everywhere. I also have the impression that when it gets dry the blending is much better, there is more subtle change, is it possible that blending improved during drying? So should I do slightly harder transition which will improve during drying?
But it is true that this glossy effect while painting is really disturbing while painting, distracting your eyes from your real shadows and highlights.
So here the nest steps I have done on my ogre experiment, they are close ups and looks quite hard:
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Almost all the parts of the ogres where modified, even the NMM on the blade and cannon. I have added mid-tones like on the trousers and seems to work quite well, faster and even better than acrylics??? Maybe I am not using the best technique for acrylics.
One more question: Should I use black in my mix? I didn't try afraid to "spoil" my current mix, but I used Burnt Umber from Rembrandt which I found less good than Winsor and Newton, bigger pigment? harder to mix? and less smooth? did you use this brand?
Thanks for your help!
