first post

monkeyman7x

monkeyman7x

New member
hi guys, this is my first post so please dont be too harsh although all comments and critiques are welcome. This was my UK GD 06 entry and luckily i managed to get to the judging table for 40k monster.
thank you for any feed back
Chris
http://www.coolminiornot.com/137508
137508
 
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DrEvilmonki

Active member
Hard to be to harsh when it is a well painted model!

Critique - Your blending looks very smooth but you lack contrast. The green should have darker recesses and brighter highlights.
Your metal looks ok but you can really see the ink was put on to thick in parts and you didn\'t build up the layers thin enough. If you thin your inks sownmore and hold only small amounts on your brush you can build your layers of shading slower (and have more control because of it).
And the metal on the base is way to clean looking.

As I saida nice bit o kit. you should score high 7 to low 8 with it but without to much work you will be scoring higher.
 
monkeyman7x

monkeyman7x

New member
:D a reply, and a constructive one.

Thank you very much for the input, and yh i do see what you mean about the inks/green.

btw, about how thin should inks be put on?
 
R

Ritual

New member
Yeah, I agree with what Evilmonki said. You need to up your contrast so that the mini truly \'comes alive\'. I\'d go further with the highlights on the upwards facing armour edges as well. Especially on the upper part of the mini where most light would be reflected. Imagine an overhead lightsource and paint the shading and highlighting acording to that. This helps a lot in getting coherency in your highlighting and also the mini will look more \'real\', in lack of a better explanation. Good stuff, nevertheless! Welcome to CMON! :)

Your inks should be really thin! You should hardly see the effect of a single layer. It\'s always better to put on lots of very thin layers when doing ink glazes (or any glazes, basically), then one or a few heavy ones. You\'ll have much more control over what\'s happening.
 
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DrEvilmonki

Active member
lol What Ritual said. The other thing you should try is using paint instead of ink for your rusty metals as ink dries a bit shiney (and rust ain\'t shiney).
You just water the paint down to the same degree you would have your ink. Which is you hardly notice when you apply a layer (in fact should take about 4 or 5 layers per shade minimum). The other way to describe both the comsistency and amount you apply is that the ink/paint should basically dry as you apply it.
Again takes longer but more satisfying results.
 
monkeyman7x

monkeyman7x

New member
ah cool, thank you for the comments, i never really thought about where light would shine from, and how the model would react to it. i am stuck on the gw style of painting, where you just higlight the edges, if you know what i mean?:redface:

o, and i used a mix of paint and ink for the rusting, but i will try and make them much more watery.

cheers guys,
ps if anyone is interested i just posted a rear view the ID NUM is 137516

http://www.coolminiornot.com/137516
 
monkeyman7x

monkeyman7x

New member
:D such a warm greeting to the forums, by the way guys, how many models/pictures do u need to posted to have a folder, becuase, if i search for my models under my name, i cant find them :(
 
K

krom1415

Active member
It probably says that there not active yet in your add/edit pictures
, :D

If you want a rating though its 5 minis with 50+ votes:D
 
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DrEvilmonki

Active member
Every submission has to be moderated before it becomes active. You can\'t do a search until you have an active model in your gallery. But you only need one.

EDIT: It can take a while for the moderation if you post on a weekend.
 
monkeyman7x

monkeyman7x

New member
LoL, thanks once again, i seem to be saying that a lot tonight

p.s. you arent meant to say it sucks lol:D, i was just expectin the worst.

i officially love these forums:beer:
 
R

Ritual

New member
Originally posted by monkeyman7x
i am stuck on the gw style of painting, where you just higlight the edges, if you know what i mean?:redface:
Click to expand...
That\'s the natural way to start doing highlights and such, really. But, once you\'re comfortable with techniques and such it\'s a good idea to think about how the mini is supposed to be lit, even if there are no visible light sources surrounding the mini. If you ever plan on doing NMM or such techniques it will even be important to decide upon a light source.
 
A

angus147258

New member
Yes. You have to paint it like there\'s a spotlight shining from one direction on the model and thats where all the highlights are coming from. An other way is zenithial highlighting which is where the light source is directly above the mini.
Jake
 
monkeyman7x

monkeyman7x

New member
cheers for the input guys, i will definately keep lighting in mind for my next project, and also, a little work on metallics. your responses have been a great help.

till my next project

chris:beer:
 
M

matty1001

New member
For highlighting with a lightsource i find it makes it much easier to prime with black or grey and then spray white primer from a direction where you want the source to be, then just use the white primer as a guide for shading.
 
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OrkyDave

New member
fantastic!!!

Such an original choice of colours used!!

I think his skin is a bit like Marmite, you either love it or hate it.

Personally I am not too keen on the colour, but this is only a personal preference. Its well painted and fair play for going with a colour to contrast from the green armour.

Voted a 9 cause I feel it deserves it!

Welcome to the forums, and YES!!! get more bits on here immediatley!
 
monkeyman7x

monkeyman7x

New member
To DrEvilMonki,
lol, by the way, i havent done a unit, i believe there is someone else with an online name similar to mine, with similar painting techniques lol.

To OrkyDave,
cheers mate, definately a marmite response to the skin :), and thanks for the vote.
 
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