Focus problem
- Thread starter Baylien
- Start date
Avelorn
Sven Jonsson
The problem is the "depth of field" meaning the part of the image in focus is narrow. There are two ways of getting a better depth of field, changing the aperture setting on the camera (the pupil using a metaphor of an eye) or moving the camera further back. The better solution is probably to change the aperture setting.
What camera do you have? I can probably help you with the specific settings in case it has some sort of manual controls.
What camera do you have? I can probably help you with the specific settings in case it has some sort of manual controls.
Hi Avelorn, thanks for the reply.
My camera is a minolta dimage Z3 4 mega pixels, it has various settings, but i've lost the instruction booklet. It does have a setting for speed fix, i.e. it stays at say 1/60 sec, then one for f
I use one that has a P on it and use close focus. which is good focus single figures.
Its when i try and use it for several figures it goes un focused, any help would be appreciated.
My camera is a minolta dimage Z3 4 mega pixels, it has various settings, but i've lost the instruction booklet. It does have a setting for speed fix, i.e. it stays at say 1/60 sec, then one for f
I use one that has a P on it and use close focus. which is good focus single figures.
Its when i try and use it for several figures it goes un focused, any help would be appreciated.
Avelorn
Sven Jonsson
Well the A mode is what you could use, then you'll get control over the aforementioned aperture.
Now. Your specific camera goes from f/2.8 to f/8.0. The smaller number F2.8 means a larger aperture (f stands for fraction) which means more light to the sensor but also a narrower depth of field = less of the minis in focus. Try putting it at the minimum value of F8.0 and see if you can get all the minis just in frame and in focus. If you can't, move the camera back a bit and try again.
This will in the other part of the correct exposure equation lead to that the shutter will need to be open longer (a slower shutter speed). This might mean that you will have to use a tripod to avoid camera shake, but steadying your hands, using the self-timer or being very careful + shooting a lot of shots can also work depending on how much light you have on the miniatures.
Remember also to put the camera in the lowest ISO setting - that should be 50 in this cameras case. High ISO setting trades of light sensitivity with noise. Great for the occasional shot in dim lighting but not very good when shooting miniatures.
OK one more tip. Not essential, but you can at least keep it in mind. If you manage to get all the miniatures framed and in focus on a larger aperture setting (say 5.6), then it is a good idea to use that one. This is because the lens of the camera tends to give the sharpest results around the mid aperture settings rather then the extremes.
Now. Your specific camera goes from f/2.8 to f/8.0. The smaller number F2.8 means a larger aperture (f stands for fraction) which means more light to the sensor but also a narrower depth of field = less of the minis in focus. Try putting it at the minimum value of F8.0 and see if you can get all the minis just in frame and in focus. If you can't, move the camera back a bit and try again.
This will in the other part of the correct exposure equation lead to that the shutter will need to be open longer (a slower shutter speed). This might mean that you will have to use a tripod to avoid camera shake, but steadying your hands, using the self-timer or being very careful + shooting a lot of shots can also work depending on how much light you have on the miniatures.
Remember also to put the camera in the lowest ISO setting - that should be 50 in this cameras case. High ISO setting trades of light sensitivity with noise. Great for the occasional shot in dim lighting but not very good when shooting miniatures.
OK one more tip. Not essential, but you can at least keep it in mind. If you manage to get all the miniatures framed and in focus on a larger aperture setting (say 5.6), then it is a good idea to use that one. This is because the lens of the camera tends to give the sharpest results around the mid aperture settings rather then the extremes.
Here's a link to the downloadable manual.
http://www.nodevice.com/user_manual/konica_minolta/digital_cameras_1187699637/dimage_z3.html
http://www.nodevice.com/user_manual/konica_minolta/digital_cameras_1187699637/dimage_z3.html
MiniStalker83
New member
I've had more luck with the "quick fix" solution here, actually. Just moving the camera back tends to solve my problems. As I tend to do semi-professional photography now and then (mostly weddings and stuff), I usually have my aperture pretty tight. Have you checked out Angie's List wedding photographer reviews? If I start fiddling with it, I'm fiddling with it for half a hour. Moving the camera away a little will usually solve the problem for me. But again, I tend to set my focus pretty tight.
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