Glazing with the pro's
- Thread starter Digganob
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MAXXxxx
Well-known member
why don't you try it? 
You already have the needed colors for the mix.
and yes, they can be mixed with each other, with other gw paints or generally with paints/inks/washed/etc from other companies.
If you like how they look/are used, I'd suggest getting either the Andrea/Scale75 or Vallejo inks. Their purpose is about the same, but extra colors.
But the best is imho: take normal paints, water down a lot, paint thin layers --> glazes done.
GW glaze's biggest limit is the number of colors imho (basically one for each chaos-god, with the odd yellow for slaanesh)
You already have the needed colors for the mix.and yes, they can be mixed with each other, with other gw paints or generally with paints/inks/washed/etc from other companies.
If you like how they look/are used, I'd suggest getting either the Andrea/Scale75 or Vallejo inks. Their purpose is about the same, but extra colors.
But the best is imho: take normal paints, water down a lot, paint thin layers --> glazes done.
GW glaze's biggest limit is the number of colors imho (basically one for each chaos-god, with the odd yellow for slaanesh)
D'Accord..
SkelettetS
New member
um, its supposed to make it easier, to me its just another component you dont need ;P
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
agree. What's funnier: I have a harder time with glazes if I use it, so every time I think "let's use it" I have to go back to pure water.
So while it supposed to help, but for me it's making it harder/worse.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Digga from seeing previous posts of yours on other threads, I think you bought those glazes with the express purpose of using them to blend with or juice. GW glazes, as others have hinted, is more designed for simple tinting. And quite frankly, their colors are NOT versatile at all. So, if you are using these glazes for what you inquired about on, I think it was AndyGs page but I may be mistaken, then you need to understand something. The term glaze can be confusing. Some people use it to mean they slightly added a tint on top of another color. Others use it to mean they blended by using a very watered down paint, in a controlled manner, to progressively add layers so that a gradient can be built up. I think you want to glaze for this purpose. And if that is the case, any normal acrylic paint need only be diluted sufficiently. This is why many people are pointing out glaze mediums to you, because they help to blend. This also may be why others say it does not work, because they use it to tint and not to juice. But that's here nor there. Point is, watch or read a tutorial on juicing, and you'll have what you want. Here is a good one:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xfnmDVfgxSM
Seriously, watch this and you'll be "Glazing with the Pros."
Another quick tip. Glazing can be done by anyone. IMHO, it is perhaps the easiest way for a new painter to blend. It is also the most time consuming. Over time, you'll learn to blend without having to water down to a colored water consistency, and you will be more comfortable with a 1:1 consistency, but juicing will still likely give smoother results.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xfnmDVfgxSM
Seriously, watch this and you'll be "Glazing with the Pros."
Another quick tip. Glazing can be done by anyone. IMHO, it is perhaps the easiest way for a new painter to blend. It is also the most time consuming. Over time, you'll learn to blend without having to water down to a colored water consistency, and you will be more comfortable with a 1:1 consistency, but juicing will still likely give smoother results.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Back at you brother. It's all about terminology and it is often confusing. There is a glaze as a type of paint and then there is a glaze as a verb. There is a wash as a type of paint and a wash used as a verb. But let's quickly simplify the difference between a wash and a glaze, because some were pointing you in the direction of inks and washes (another misnomer).
A wash is sufficiently diluting any paint and breaking down its surface tension and viscosity such that it naturally falls into the pits and recesses of a mini. Very often people will base coat something, wash it to create shadows, then repaint over the higher points with the same base coat. This is sort of the GW way of applying shadows. But you won't be applying washes too much to shade if you choose juicing to blend. Washes are normally applied very liberally, almost drenching the model in the wash to achieve the effect. There is also a "pin wash" which is pin pointing more accurately where you apply the wash. I might do this if the cracks I need to shade are too small to paint normally. I like to do normal washes, the type where you just spread it about willy nilly, on my bases.
A glaze should be more watered down than a wash. This is because it should have less pigment, since only a slight tinting is required both for juicing and tinting. Often times the consistency required is referred to as dirty water. So think about how you coke looks at the bottom of a glass of this beverage where the ice has completely melted. Some call this a 6x1 ratio.
A real quick aside. Diluting. I do it like this. If I want a 3:1 water to paint ratio, I'll dunk my relatively big mixing brush (because you don't mix your paints or dilute them or do any other tasks with the brush that you are using to paint). Submerge the brush in your water or medium, and quickly shovel it onto your pallet 3 times, wiping the brush onto the pallet in between each refill. Do this three times, then grab up the same amount of paint and mix it with the water or medium. That's it. Just consider a brush full of water to equal a brush full of paint.
Many painters to glaze simply to tint, though. Take a look at Ten Ball's work. It seems like he glazes a lot of his armor and weapons with a orangey-brown color. This adds interests/age. Now look at NMMAndy's last model. He glazed a turquoise color into the armor with beautiful results. These are the traditional forms of glazing, and very often what people mean when they use the term. The GW glazes are useful for this. But again, they are just odd colors. Their red glaZe, for instance, tints things an awful pink red.
The video explains the second means of glazing. Juicing, we will heretofore refer to it. Beware, that video may have a part 1 to it that I missed. If you google video NMM sanguinor it will populate.
Gw gw now sells their paints as a set using their stupid way of painting. It's goes base coat, layer1 layer 2, wash, dry brush on edge highlights, glaze. Their "glaze" is actually meant to change the starkness of the highlight and better unify it with the layers. But it really only succeeds in altering the color in a negative way. RE TURN TO STORE.
Honestly, Digga, we both live Stateside. I honestly wouldn't mind showing you some things via Skype or talking you through things on the phome, if you traded me some sculpting tutorials. Hope this is helpful to you and others.
A wash is sufficiently diluting any paint and breaking down its surface tension and viscosity such that it naturally falls into the pits and recesses of a mini. Very often people will base coat something, wash it to create shadows, then repaint over the higher points with the same base coat. This is sort of the GW way of applying shadows. But you won't be applying washes too much to shade if you choose juicing to blend. Washes are normally applied very liberally, almost drenching the model in the wash to achieve the effect. There is also a "pin wash" which is pin pointing more accurately where you apply the wash. I might do this if the cracks I need to shade are too small to paint normally. I like to do normal washes, the type where you just spread it about willy nilly, on my bases.
A glaze should be more watered down than a wash. This is because it should have less pigment, since only a slight tinting is required both for juicing and tinting. Often times the consistency required is referred to as dirty water. So think about how you coke looks at the bottom of a glass of this beverage where the ice has completely melted. Some call this a 6x1 ratio.
A real quick aside. Diluting. I do it like this. If I want a 3:1 water to paint ratio, I'll dunk my relatively big mixing brush (because you don't mix your paints or dilute them or do any other tasks with the brush that you are using to paint). Submerge the brush in your water or medium, and quickly shovel it onto your pallet 3 times, wiping the brush onto the pallet in between each refill. Do this three times, then grab up the same amount of paint and mix it with the water or medium. That's it. Just consider a brush full of water to equal a brush full of paint.
Many painters to glaze simply to tint, though. Take a look at Ten Ball's work. It seems like he glazes a lot of his armor and weapons with a orangey-brown color. This adds interests/age. Now look at NMMAndy's last model. He glazed a turquoise color into the armor with beautiful results. These are the traditional forms of glazing, and very often what people mean when they use the term. The GW glazes are useful for this. But again, they are just odd colors. Their red glaZe, for instance, tints things an awful pink red.
The video explains the second means of glazing. Juicing, we will heretofore refer to it. Beware, that video may have a part 1 to it that I missed. If you google video NMM sanguinor it will populate.
Gw gw now sells their paints as a set using their stupid way of painting. It's goes base coat, layer1 layer 2, wash, dry brush on edge highlights, glaze. Their "glaze" is actually meant to change the starkness of the highlight and better unify it with the layers. But it really only succeeds in altering the color in a negative way. RE TURN TO STORE.
Honestly, Digga, we both live Stateside. I honestly wouldn't mind showing you some things via Skype or talking you through things on the phome, if you traded me some sculpting tutorials. Hope this is helpful to you and others.
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
yes, very useful, thank you.
the only point, where I don't quite agree is that a glaze should be more watered down then a wash. From my point of view the difference is more about the way it is applied on the surface:
- let it flow in the recesses --> wash
- thin layer on top of the area, not letting it pool --> glaze
then again it may be only because I usually make my washes too thin anyway.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Actually you pointed out the one thing I felt I'd receive dissent. Some people say, and maybe they're right, that washes are thinner. But think of it this way. If a wash was as thin as a glaze, you'd have to put down layer upon layer of this wash to start to see effects.
I believe that consistency of the paint is indeed part of what differentiates the two. Otherwise a pin wash is not too different than a glaze. And then if you place a glaze in a recessed area does it become a wash? Because of these distinctions I think that the characteristics of the paint are just as important as their endeavor when defining the technical skill being used
Stewsayer
New member
To me the biggest difference between a wash and a glaze is in the application. With a wash (no matter how controlled) you flood an area and allow the paint to gather where surface tension and gravity take it. With a glaze you take most of the paint off your brush and place the paint where you want it so that it stays there.
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
Stewsayer: a quick question, that's partly related here: are you from the eu?
to cut it short, I have a theory, that is most likely not true, that there is a difference between eu and us terminology. If you are from the eu that more or less strengthens the theory.
It's based on this:
- most us blogs / forums I read define the difference between glaze and wash like Bloodfather described it. Different dilution, 'dirty water' (examples: former brushthralls, miniwargaming's DVD(s) )
- most eu ones define it based on the application. I won't reread/rewatch the tutorials now, but as I remember most french and german painters are like this (probably others too, but I read really few italian blogs for example). (examples: JBT DVD, massivevoodoo article on it)
So depending on which ones you read the most it means something else to you. It's not better or worse either way, just different.
aaand we are going really offtopic with this one, so back to the original question: yes they are mixable, yes you can use the gw-glazes, but the colors are few and unless you want that vibrant primary color not the best. Better thin out some paint/ink(artist or model, have good exp with vgc ones, heard good things from andrea/scale ones) and use that.
to cut it short, I have a theory, that is most likely not true, that there is a difference between eu and us terminology. If you are from the eu that more or less strengthens the theory.
It's based on this:
- most us blogs / forums I read define the difference between glaze and wash like Bloodfather described it. Different dilution, 'dirty water' (examples: former brushthralls, miniwargaming's DVD(s) )
- most eu ones define it based on the application. I won't reread/rewatch the tutorials now, but as I remember most french and german painters are like this (probably others too, but I read really few italian blogs for example). (examples: JBT DVD, massivevoodoo article on it)
So depending on which ones you read the most it means something else to you. It's not better or worse either way, just different.
aaand we are going really offtopic with this one
, so back to the original question: yes they are mixable, yes you can use the gw-glazes, but the colors are few and unless you want that vibrant primary color not the best. Better thin out some paint/ink(artist or model, have good exp with vgc ones, heard good things from andrea/scale ones) and use that.SkelettetS
New member
for the record, i mostly paint everything with glazes - both blending and tinting, and i find glazing medium pretty much overkill. the consistency of the paint used (ratio water-paint) is very much depending what color you use, both brand and intensity of it, all that comes down to experiance.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
I think you have to imply that the wash isn't as diluted though. It has to be thick enough to where it does more than just slightly tint the recesses. Also, you cannot use the term "no matter how controlled" and "flood and area and allow the paint to gather..." because you must admit that when you flood an area you are surrendering control. Can't someone apply a glaze to a recess without calling it a wash? Indeed, a wash is thick enough that it does the job in one or two passes.
Application is also important and is definitely a part of what glazing is, but, in my humblest of misguided opinions, consistency is also a part that cannot be ignored lest we risk misidentifying other terms and confusing young painters. It's also important that we find and identify a clear consensus for these terms because it aids us when writing SBS tutorials to describe a technique that is universally understood.
